Fashion advice for anniversary...

[Jofaile]

Ok, here is the gist: I am going out with my girlfriend for a night on the town to celebrate our one-year anniversary. I want to find something new and stylish to wear. My girlfriend tells me all the time that I look "sharp" or "hot" in any of the clothes I have bought, so I am pretty confident in my style. However, I want this to be more than "hot' or "sharp", so I wanted to pick up some opinions from all of you. Now, given, I have not posted on here in about six months but I am back and I am raring to go. Alright, that said, here is the question I wish to pose: Will a dark gray three-button Armani suit with a white raised strip Zegna spread-collar shirt, a purple/black/white diagonal striped Dolce & Gabbana tie, Concord La Scala 309731 Stainless Steel Bracelet with Silver Dial watch, and a pair of  Gucci stitch rim slip-ons with polished silver hardware do well on such a momentous occasion? Any and all opinions appreciated. Suit Shoes Watch Tie Shirt

 

[nicepants]

Do you have an idea of what she will be wearing? What do you mean by "a night on the town"? What you describe sounds great to me although I'm not as fashion aware as many others on this board.

 

[Joe G]

Will a dark gray three-button Armani suit with a white raised strip Zegna spread-collar shirt, a purple/black/white diagonal striped Dolce & Gabbana tie, Concord La Scala 309731 Stainless Steel Bracelet with Silver Dial watch, and a pair of  Gucci stitch rim slip-ons with polished silver hardware do well on such a momentous occasion? Any and all opinions appreciated.

A few comments: You didn't mention your age. My advice is aimed at someone in my age-range, say 22-26. If you're considerably (say, a decade or so) older, than maybe my advice may not be as useful. That said, the look you propose would be a killer for a power-job. However, I think the demands of a "night on the town" are a little different. Props for choosing to wear a suit, but why go for such a sombre, understated one? Save the navy blues and greys for office-wear, and go with a black, or better yet, midnite blue (looks blacker than black under artificial light). Also, think something exuding class, but with a twist. Like midnite blue with pinstripes in a funky colour (pink or lavender, say) and/or peak lapels. It was for a similar event (6mos, actually) that I bought my peak lapel, purple pinstriped Brioni. If you must go with an Armani -- I find his silhouette a little bit frumpy, to be honest, compared to Saville Row/Neapolitan or Roman silhouettes, and the quality of the Collezioni line is nothing to write home about -- look at one of their high-stance two-buttons instead of a three. The Armani slouch makes more sense with that configuration, I think. (Indeed, my only Armani jacket is high-two button sportcoat.) The shoes will be fine for today, but will you want to wear square toes in a year? Paying Gucci tariffs, you better be able to say "yes". Here are some other ideas, from that same site. Tod's bowling shoes I own similar ones, the difference being that mine have a sheet of elastic over the instep rather than laces. Insanely comfortable and I love the look, too. Trad Gucci Loafers Will never go out of style. Updated Gucci Loafers More daring, but the toe is much more in tune with today that the square, knife-edge one. Would be my pick if they had the trad Gancini bit instead of something new. However, if a Gucci store near you has their spectator wingtip (sans perforations) loafers with driving sole on sale, those would be much better than anything above with the possible exception of the Tod's. I'm not familiar with the watch, although my gut reaction would be to wear your existing watch and fold whatever you were going to spend on the watch into a better suit. I dig the tie (if I hadn't promised myself that I'm not going to spend any money on ties that are not seven-fold, Zegna 15milmil15 wool, or Brionis, I'd have just ordered one for myself) and shirt. However, with the sales I suspect to be going on in the US right now (Saks' Finale, Neiman's Last Call, etc) I suspect you may be able to find them locally for less money than online. Peace, JG PS: Thanks for showing me how to do links on this board without making one scroll twenty feet to read it.

 

[Jofaile]

Thanks Joe. I actually had a change of heart this morning after seeing Anzi Mousei's new line. I think I am going to be going with a super 170's black four-button long notch suit, dulled fire red spread collar with French cuff shirt, brushed/polished steel cufflinks from Kenneth Cole (I know, I know, but these are very nice, I promise), dark red tie with an even darker red flower print (outlined slightly with an silver shine silk) from D&G, shoes that are a low outsole dress version of those Tod's Bowling shoes you mentioned (with polished steel hardware), and an Omega Brushed/Polished steel bracelet with silver face (that almost exactly matches the highlights in the tie) and darker gray chrono (I own 13 watches, ranging from Omega to Tag Heuer to Concord [I own that one I showed], as Steve would probably recall from my earlier posts on the subject of watches...I am, as it is blatantly obvious, a connoisseur of watches). What do all of you think of this new line up? Let me know...

 

[pstoller]

It certainly sounds more like a "night on the town" outfit than the original, which, as Joe said, is rather business-like for an anniversary dinner. I'm unfamiliar with Anzi Mousei, and, w/o links this time, I can't comment specifically on any of the items. Since you're going with a four-button jacket, though, can we assume you're on the tall side? I dig the vampiric black and red color combination; if I had the option, I'd accessorize it with yellow gold rather than silver/stainless, but white metal seems to be more in vogue at the moment. As for dress bowling shoes (which, for some reason, strikes me as an oxymoron, although lord knows I'd buy them myself), I have trouble visualizing any kind of bowling shoe"”certainly not the ones Joe linked"”with a suit, unless the suit were a lot more "rock & roll" than the ones we're talking about. But, hey, that's me. Perhaps the ones you're considering are close enough to dress shoes. At least it's a more au courant look than the square-toed Gucci loafers. (I think Joe was spot-on with his other Gucci recommendations.) I have to say I've never thought of Armani as "frumpy" or "slouchy," although his cuts are generally not as severe as the ones Joe favors. That said, I prefer the edgier Black Label cuts (and the quality of the construction) to the Collezione line. I do rather like the high two-button configuration, but I've gone with Dolce & Gabbana for that look. In any case, if you've put as much thought into planning the evening's events as you have into your outfit, your girlfriend should be very happy indeed.

 

[Joe G]

Thanks Joe. I actually had a change of heart this morning after seeing Anzi Mousei's new line. I think I am going to be going with a super 170's black four-button long notch suit, dulled fire red spread collar with French cuff shirt, brushed/polished steel cufflinks from Kenneth Cole (I know, I know, but these are very nice, I promise), dark red tie with an even darker red flower print (outlined slightly with an silver shine silk) from D&G, shoes that are a low outsole dress version of those Tod's Bowling shoes you mentioned (with polished steel hardware), and an Omega Brushed/Polished steel bracelet with silver face (that almost exactly matches the highlights in the tie) and darker gray chrono

Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with Anzi Mousei. How would you describe the suit's silhouette? Are you intending to wear it buttoned-up or with the top and bottom buttons unfastened? I, too, dig the new colour scheme. The tie in particular sounds like a work of art. The only warning I might offer you is that with a good Super 170's-grade fabric. Your gf might not want to stop touching it. It's cool and manhood affirming and all that at first but can actually get a bit annoying. Happened to my current gf the first time she saw me in a Loro Piana cashmere jumper, well before I even thought of dating her.... Not familiar with the shoes, but it sounds like they'll work quite well. I take it that they're black. Normally, I'd be tempted to wear brown shoes with a black suit (I'm weird like that) but not with all of that red on top. And who cares where the cufflinks come from, as long as they look good? (Truth be told, I had my favourite cufflinks made for me at a shop that mostly does billet aluminium car rims and the like. Hardly a designer item

) Besides, most of the ill-feelings I have towards Kenneth Cole stem from this really jappy* brat who attends his alma mater (Emory University in Atlanta, as she told me every time we went into a mall that sold his wares) on whom I wasted the better part of five months' worth of my affection....

(I own 13 watches, ranging from Omega to Tag Heuer to Concord [I own that one I showed], as Steve would probably recall from my earlier posts on the subject of watches...I am, as it is blatantly obvious, a connoisseur of watches). What do all of you think of this new line up? Let me know...

Interesting. I just looked up that thread. Now let's bring this one back to me for a second

. Say that you only had two watches, one pedestrian (square stainless case with blue face Fossil-made Emporio Armani) and one more decent (gold TAG Heuer S/el automatic with light gold face and single traditional S/el link followed by a leather band). You're relatively small-wristed (the large Bulgari Aluminium and most Breitlings just look stupid on you), looking for something new and classy (no Rolexes or diving watches), and don't want to spend the cash for what you really want, which is a JLC Reverso duplex in platinum with brown and black ostrich bands. What would you get?

As for dress bowling shoes (which, for some reason, strikes me as an oxymoron, although lord knows I'd buy them myself), I have trouble visualizing any kind of bowling shoe"”certainly not the ones Joe linked"”with a suit, unless the suit were a lot more "rock & roll" than the ones we're talking about. But, hey, that's me.

I actually got the idea from the good people at Knize, of all the bastions of arch-conservative gentleman's wear. My brown Tod's bowling shoes arrived there at the same day as one of my suit fittings, and they recommended I try them on together. I had bought them for wear with khaki trousers and the like, and didn't expect to wear them with a suit. But it looked great. Then, at home once I tried them on with my midnite blue Zegna Napoli, and again home run. Since then I've worn them everything from jeans and a t-shirt to grey six-button DB suit by Alfred Dunhill. Not for anything terribly important, mind; that's what the Ferragamo cap-toe balmoral oxfords (to be augmented by Alden shell cordovan oxfords within a few days of my next trip to the USA) are for. But for going out to a restaurant, club, or gallery opening sure. PS: Does anyone know how to turn off that stupid red "new"? *"jappy" of course has nothing to do with people of Japanese origin.

 

[LabelKing]

Regarding the watches, and noting that you like the JLC Reverso models I would suggest a Cartier model which is also rectangular, and rather Art Deco. This particular model is called the Tank Basculante, in steel. Also it is reversable to accomodate initialing, and the such. The price is approx. $ $2,350 with date, and alligator strap.

 

[LA Guy]

Since you've done a 180 turn, and are going to go with the 4-button black suit and driving style shoes, why don't you try a black and scarlet paisley shirt by Etro, or a striped black and red Paul Smith shirt. Wear a dark red woven (maybe basketweave?) tie to anchor the whole thing. The advantage of having the shirt be the primarily accent piece is that you can always ditch the tie later in the evening as the occasion dictates. (I think that a tie has no place on the dancefloor, for example).

 

[pstoller]

Normally, I'd be tempted to wear brown shoes with a black suit (I'm weird like that) but not with all of that red on top.

That's a very Italian thing, and I like it, too, although I rarely do it myself. I agree about not doing it w/all that red, though, as it would undercut the whole vibe.

Say that you only had two watches, one pedestrian (square stainless case with blue face Fossil-made Emporio Armani) and one more decent (gold TAG Heuer S/el automatic with light gold face and single traditional S/el link followed by a leather band). You're relatively small-wristed (the large Bulgari Aluminium and most Breitlings just look stupid on you), looking for something new and classy (no Rolexes or diving watches), and don't want to spend the cash for what you really want, which is a JLC Reverso duplex in platinum with brown and black ostrich bands. What would you get?

Not that you asked me, but...I'm a relatively small-wristed fellow myself, and my preference leans towards vintage watches.

For one thing, I have a hard time accepting a quartz watch as "dressy." I realize there are some very respectable watches with quartz movements out there"”I rather like some of the recent Hermès watches, for example"”but I'm hesitant to spend "real" watch money on quartz. I'd just as soon buy an assortment of Swatches or the like for play-wear, and save my pennies for a good mechanical for serious/evening wear.

But, then, I'm up against the same dilemma as you are: I'm not ready to pony up for a JLC Reverso, or Franck Muller, or whatever else strikes my fancy amongst current mechanical watches.

Add to those issues the fact that 1) I like having a watch that nobody else is likely to be wearing, 2) older men's watches tend to be smaller than today's behemoth choronographs, and 3) I just plain love certain old styles (particularly Art Deco), and the logical choice is to go vintage. My current main watch is a white gold Illinois tank (the "Beau Geste" model) from the '30s, with beautiful Deco detailing. It was a birthday gift from my (very generous) fiancÃ

e, and while I couldn't tell you exactly how much it was, I can say that you simply can't get anything comparable for anywhere near the price in a new watch. (My other "real" watch is a white gold step-cased Elgin of similar vintage, which I purchased at a flea market for Swatch-money.)

As an added bonus, today's "cool" watch may look dated within a couple of years, but an elegant vintage watch will always be an elegant vintage watch.

As for the bowling shoes, I guess I'd be willing to try it just to see how it looks. It's not like I'm an arch-conservative dresser myself (considering that I just picked up new Bally shoes in avocado and teal over the weekend).

Now, what stupid red "new" are we talking about?

 

[Jofaile]

Hmm, well, it seems I have been over run with responses. So, seeing as I am a very methodical man, I will go in order: Pstoller: Anzi Mousei is a designer out of Berlin. His line is comprised of mostly clothing for slim and tall builds. His clothing is very stylish and well priced (nice four-button for $1,400). Yes, I am tall (6' 2" to be exact) and 158 lbs, so I love four-buttons. As for the dress shoes, imagine that slip-on's (the one I linked to) outer-sole and heal only with a dress version of the top half of those bowling shoes. Now, for the Armani subject: I have always been fairly slim and tall and find that most of the cuts fit well on my broad shoulders and narrow waist. And I also favor the Black Label to the Collezione line, which in my opinion, has much better quality fabric. Joe G: Anzi Mousei's Cut: Slim athletic with good tapering in the sleeves. I intend to wear the suit buttoned traditionally, any other way honestly would seem foreign and ridiculous to me (we Americans are funny that way). Oh, and I am not worried about that "touchy, feely" problem you mentioned.

As for the watch question, here we go: While I do entertain a certain fondness for Armani watches, I would never goes as far as to purchase one, no matter how cheaply priced. Their design is novel, yes, but the attractiveness of the cases and/or bracelets/bands fade quickly with wear, believe me. I too have somewhat slim arms and wrists and I can answer your question about which watch I would purchase for that type of physique in a simple three-point list... In no particular order:  1. Omega Constellation Series  2. Concord La Scala Models  3. Baume et Mercier My personal preference would be the Baume et Mercier. Nice case and face styling with great Swiss movement and looks good on a small woman wrist and large hands like mine (especially the Milleis models)

. They are very reasonably priced ($1,000 - $2,300) and come with a great craftsmenship warranty. LA Guy: I looked at a pattern shirt-tie combo and decided the outfit I have in mind would be better for long-term use. I do want to wear it out the first time that night but I do mean to wear other combinations using the tie and shirt individually afterward. Again, thank you all for your valued advice and especially Joe G for making me re-think my selection. If there any other questions about watches, Anzi Mousei, or anything that you wish to be further cleared up or if you want me to give you a more detailed description of anything mentioned in this thread you can reach me by email or just post a thread directed my way on here, I will be around here a great bit now.

 

[Joe G]

Note: this reply is of the omnibus variety. I'll use the tips and tricks I learned from other posters to make it make more sense. Jofaile

Anzi Mousei is a designer out of Berlin. His line is comprised of mostly clothing for slim and tall builds. His clothing is very stylish and well priced (nice four-button for $1,400). Yes, I am tall (6' 2" to be exact) and 158 lbs, so I love four-buttons.

Interesting. Do you have an address, telephone number, or contact info for him? Quick calls to my three favourite men's stores in the city (the old-school KaDeWe on Wittenbergplatz at the end of Tauenzienstr., the brand new and ultramodern Quartier 206 on Friedrichstr., and Meintus on Ku'damm) came up empty. I love Berlin and visit the city at least once a month. Except for eyewear (I recently bought a pair of glasses from ic.-berlin to compliment my Bulgaris, replacing the Silhouettes I gave to charity because I saw them on Donald Rumsfeld's nose), I haven't noted enough of its indigenous fashion scene. I wonder if his cuts would really flatter me, though. I'm tall (6'3"ish) but enough of a gym rat to weigh in the 220s. More v than straight line, which I guess is why I like more severely-cut suits. What is traditionally buttoned for a 4-button, anyway? The two variations I've seen are 1) the top and bottom unbuttoned with the lapel rolling over the top button as in a quality 3-button; and 2) all buttons, even the bottom, buttoned. And is that really US$1400 for a Super 170's suit?

While I do entertain a certain fondness for Armani watches, I would never goes as far as to purchase one, no matter how cheaply priced. Their design is novel, yes, but the attractiveness of the cases and/or bracelets/bands fade quickly with wear, believe me.

If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't have bought it. Still, I have to say, that except for the crystal I've not had problems. Fossil's crystals are cheap abominations, but I had it replaced by a proper sapphire crystal, and now it looks as it did two or three years ago, whenever it was that I bought it. I do tend to take care of watches, keep them in their boxes when I'm not wearing them and such. Thanks for the other advice. I'll look more closer at Baume et Mercier. I've seen them in show windows, but can't recall ever having held one. Pstoller:

Not that you asked me, but...I'm a relatively small-wristed fellow myself, and my preference leans towards vintage watches.

No problems here with advice from another sartorially interested gentlemen. As far as vintage watches, I've wanted to do that for a while. Maybe I will when I move (back) to the States (not from there but went to college there), as I will (hopefully) have time to learn more about them and see some in person instead of just on the internet. I'm not really an eBay type; I like to see, touch, and feel before I buy. If I have to pay a small premium to do so, that's fine.

My current main watch is a white gold Illinois tank (the "Beau Geste" model) from the '30s, with beautiful Deco detailing.

Sounds interesting. Do you have pictures?

(considering that I just picked up new Bally shoes in avocado and teal over the weekend).

Which avocado ones did you get? I looked at the trainers but ended up getting the driving loafers (and matching belt) recently.

Now, what stupid red "new" are we talking about?

This one: new. On my computer at least, any time any post has the word "new" in it, it is highlighted in an orangish red. And it's really annoying. :

 

[pstoller]

As far as vintage watches, I've wanted to do that for a while. Maybe I will when I move (back) to the States (not from there but went to college there), as I will (hopefully) have time to learn more about them and see some in person instead of just on the internet. I'm not really an eBay type; I like to see, touch, and feel before I buy. If I have to pay a small premium to do so, that's fine.

It certainly makes more sense to buy in person than on eBay, unless you know enough about what you're buying to know what you're getting from thousands of miles away. You can even get it for less money by buying "live," because it's easier to strike a bargain on a collectible when you're not bidding against a world full of collectors. That said, I would think that there would be shops in Europe that would offer comparable bargains on fine vintage watches, especially on makes we see relatively rarely over here. Even for some new watches; I've been told, for example, that the JLC Reverso is a better deal in Europe than in the States. I haven't had the opportunity to price them myself, unfortunately.

Do you have pictures?

I don't, but I may try to scan some in the near future.

Which avocado ones did you get? I looked at the trainers but ended up getting the driving loafers (and matching belt) recently.

I got the "Rutger" in avocado, which I believe is the trainer, although it's hardly a real athletic shoe. I also got the "Tames" three-eyelet oxford (with the narrow, squared-off toe) in "petrol" (teal), and that's the one for which I got the matching belt.