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Fabric Wrinkling Around Coat's Waist

Despos

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This issue has been here before. Same question, same issue. Poster put something under his low shoulder, re took the picture, wrinkles vanished. I see this frequently when altering jackets so it is more experience than opinion.
 

Roger

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Originally Posted by John Ellis
Fixing the shoulder based on the pic and without having garment and wearer here in front of me is very unlikely to fix his pulling problem without adjusting the girth measure. Think otherwise if you wish.
Gawd, another John Ellis post in which he arrogantly thinks he knows more about the issue than a true expert!!
frown.gif
For your information, Mr. Ellis, Chris Despos is considered a true upper-echelon tailor with tons of experience and talent on which to call. Your arguing with him just further confirms your ignorance and complete failure to recognize and understand your place in this domain.
 

water

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Damn you all for pointing out my deformities!

Thanks to all. I think the dropped right shoulder is contributing. It is a little more pronounced in this picture than during normal wear. I did not think the waist needed to be let out but perhaps I should have listened to my tailor (I just assumed he was jumping at his first thought).

Regarding the shoulder width, I really have nowhere to go with it. I mentioned, to my tailor, the idea of making them narrower and he immediately dismissed it. He told me if they were narrower the suit would be very uncomfortable.
 

John Ellis

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Originally Posted by Roger
Gawd, another John Ellis post in which he arrogantly thinks he knows more about the issue than a true expert!!
frown.gif
For your information, Mr. Ellis, Chris Despos is considered a true upper-echelon tailor with tons of experience and talent on which to call. Your arguing with him just further confirms your ignorance and complete failure to recognize and understand your place in this domain.


Thanks "Roger" for informing me what a total lowlife I am. And I'm sorry to speak out from my humble place in the gutter but based on the pic and a bit of elemental knowledge of tailoring I'd say that fixing the shoulder alone is not going to fix the pulling problem on that jacket. Disagree if you wish but try to do so without screaming at us poor folk. It's bad manners amongst other things.
 

stickonatree

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Originally Posted by John Ellis
Thanks "Roger" for informing me what a total lowlife I am. And I'm sorry to speak out from my humble place in the gutter but based on the pic and a bit of elemental knowledge of tailoring I'd say that fixing the shoulder alone is not going to fix the pulling problem on that jacket. Disagree if you wish but try to do so without screaming at us poor folk. It's bad manners amongst other things.

well, just know that despos has more than an elementary knowledge of tailoring, so i'd go with his opinion on this.
 

John Ellis

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Originally Posted by stickonatree
well, just know that despos has more than an elementary knowledge of tailoring, so i'd go with his opinion on this.

I'm sure he does and I take what he says under advisement but the last time I checked even those "Roger" classifies as lower than whale poop have the right to speak occasionally.
 

Despos

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John, I'll supply some more info. The wrinkles could be from multiple reasons, one reason or more likely a combination.
The main causes are horizontal tightness or the jacket could collapse if not supported do to a low shoulder or posture. From the looks of the jacket, I think if it were unbuttoned the fronts would fall away or open at the bottom. This is a balance issue. I think the right would fall lower than the left, do to the shoulder issue. To button the fronts you need to pull the fronts together. This, plus the button alignment not matching the buttonhole position cause the pulling. The op has said he thinks the waist is not tight and may even need to be taken in. As you say, it is hard to be definitive from an internet picture, but this would be my first approach.
 

John Ellis

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Originally Posted by Despos
John, I'll supply some more info. The wrinkles could be from multiple reasons, one reason or more likely a combination.
The main causes are horizontal tightness or the jacket could collapse if not supported do to a low shoulder or posture. From the looks of the jacket, I think if it were unbuttoned the fronts would fall away or open at the bottom. This is a balance issue. I think the right would fall lower than the left, do to the shoulder issue. To button the fronts you need to pull the fronts together. This, plus the button alignment not matching the buttonhole position cause the pulling. The op has said he thinks the waist is not tight and may even need to be taken in. As you say, it is hard to be definitive from an internet picture, but this would be my first approach.


Sounds entirely reasonable but judging by the pic the pulling seems really bad to me. He'll have to hire you to fix the jacket and confirm the problem. Where do you work in the tailoring business? NYC?
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by John Ellis
Sounds entirely reasonable but judging by the pic the pulling seems really bad to me. He'll have to hire you to fix the jacket and confirm the problem. Where do you work in the tailoring business? NYC?

Chicago and Dallas
 

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