Excessive creasing???

[corskc]

I bought an excellent pair of Herring shoes, but by my second wearing, I cannot help but notice there is excessive creasing on the vamps. Admittedly, I was caught by surprise in a thunderstorm on my first wearing, with the outside leather wet by the rain. I dutifully dry with tissues, stuffed in the shoe trees and left it to air dry in a corner overnight. I wondered did I make the cardinal mistake of not polishing the shoes with shoe wax before my first wearing and the subsequent storm, or this creasing is very normal?

 

[grimslade]

That creasing does seem excessive, although it's hard to see how it could have been caused by rain. Are the shoes very loose across the top of your instep?

 

[corskc]

Originally Posted by grimslade

That creasing does seem excessive, although it's hard to see how it could have been caused by rain. Are the shoes very loose across the top of your instep?
Not exactly... The shoe fits snug on my left leg (where there is much more creasing), but I had to tighten the strap one notch further on the right shoe, as my right foot is slightly shorter.

 

[Tarmac]

It looks like the type of leather they use is somewhat low quality (or at least, prone to whitish creasing), and some natural variance in the hide between left and right shoe.

It still looks like calf, just not the best calf leather. I would put some moisturizer on it, that whitish creasing would be less visible. Otherwise wear as normal.

 

[bengal-stripe]

I think the excessive creasing is a combination of factors.

The leather looks to me like "˜Pull up', an oily, waxy leather that creases differently from ordinary box calf. (Press with a finger from inside against the leather; does the colour on the outside change? Is the section, stretched by the finger, lighter in colour? Then it's definitely pull-up.)

But the main culprit is the "˜backer'. I belief the leather has been laminated, an additional layer of fabric (maybe leather) has been glued all over the vamp (forepart) to give it more body. Manufacturers tend to do this with plain vamp designs or whole cuts where there are no seams (with their overlap), to give additional support. I did enquire once about that and was told that it is done quite frequently to satisfy dealers, the shoe looks as plump as a peach on botox, and so, looks good on the shelf.

Although I dislike this practice, on ordinary box calf it does not look as disastrous as on pull-up leather. (I have that same problem with the EG-made "City Polo Boot" for Asprey. It was supposed to be shell cordovan, when this was too expensive, they settled for pull-up.)

Here is a picture from the Vass book, how a backer gets applied to a vamp.

I would complain to Herring and see what they say. They might allow you to return the shoe, but then select another design.
In this case, I believe they selected a leather and a production method that does not go well together.

 

[billiebob]

Shoes that are too tight across the vamp crease that way. I have it on a pair of cordovan grenson's and it's pretty depressing. They are definitely too tight across the vamp. Horizontal creases appear close together just like a tight jacket or shirt has horizontal ripples along the back or belly.

 

[TheFoo]

Bengal-stripe, that's fascinating. I've had similar problems with a pair of John Lobbs (2004s).

 

[grimslade]

Yes, thanks Bengal-stripe.

 

[corskc]

A fantastic insight from bengal-stripe. Googling further, I find more information about pull-up leather from this site: http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Pull-Up_Leather.htm Whipping out my magnifying glass, it does seem the vamps of my shoes are made of pull-up leather....

 

[MaxJones]

Fascinating, Bengal Stripe. I'd like to join your shoe dojo, mate.

 

[englanderjk]

Is this the Paddington monk? Almost purchased a pair a few weeks ago as the last corresponds with Loake's "Legend", which I happen to like. Herring was out of the Paddington at the time I placed the order so I went with the Sisley. Haven't received them yet but I don't expect to be dissapointed as Herrings always provides value IMHO. The Sisley are from their Premier line.

Originally Posted by corskc

I bought an excellent pair of Herring shoes, but by my second wearing, I cannot help but notice there is excessive creasing on the vamps.

Admittedly, I was caught by surprise in a thunderstorm on my first wearing, with the outside leather wet by the rain. I dutifully dry with tissues, stuffed in the shoe trees and left it to air dry in a corner overnight.

I wondered did I make the cardinal mistake of not polishing the shoes with shoe wax before my first wearing and the subsequent storm, or this creasing is very normal?

 

[corskc]

Originally Posted by englanderjk

Is this the Paddington monk? Almost purchased a pair a few weeks ago as the last corresponds with Loake's "Legend", which I happen to like. Herring was out of the Paddington at the time I placed the order so I went with the Sisley. Haven't received them yet but I don't expect to be dissapointed as Herrings always provides value IMHO. The Sisley are from their Premier line.

The Paddington monk is a plain toe cap.
Agreed, Herring does sell shoes that are of great value and would still buy from them. Despite the creases, I still like this shoe for the 'look' (now with character), and comfort.

 

[corskc]

Just an update on this issue....

Complained to Adrian Herring on the problem, which he referred back to the Loake factory. Apparently, Mr. Loake has no idea what went wrong, especially since he does not have the shoes on hand. Since its a long way to send the shoes back, they decided to refund part of the money back to me and charge the shoes to me as a second.

Great service!!!