Dress shoe appropriateness

[RPM1]

I am considering a pair of shoes for general, casual wear and so have selected a pair with a sole that I felt would better suit my needs in wet weather. The shoes are derby-type brogues, dark brown and come with stacked heels that resemble most other leather shoes of this type. However, the main difference is in the sole, as these shoes have an additional rubber layer added for better grip.

What I am trying to figure out is the appropriateness of wearing them, on the odd occasion, with a sports jacket?

 

[Academic2]

It wouldn’t bother me. The fact that they’re brogues, and brown rather than black, is already enough of a departure from formality to put them at least somewhere in the casual spectrum if that’s what you want, and the soles just push them a tad deeper into that territory (though it’s hard to say exactly how far without seeing the shoes).

Of course, much depends on the occasion, but unless the shoes are odder than you make them sound I could imagine them working with classic conservative casual outfits like the faithful navy blazer and grey flannel trousers.

Be warned that there might be some here who wouldn’t question wearing them with casual but conservative apparel, but might object to wearing them with a suit (because of the soles). I’m not one of them, however.

Cheers,

Ac

 

[archibaldleach]

Pictures would help, but a lot of cobblers will even put a thin layer of rubber on a sole if asked for and some people even do this for black oxfords for reasons of better grip or increasing the amount of time the sole will last before needing to be replaced. I don't love it personally and prefer leather soles (which probably are a touch more formal), but it's not something I'd condemn. Unless this layer of rubber is very noticeable and not subtle, I don't think it has a huge effect on the formality of the shoe.

I wouldn't wear these shoes with a suit but mostly because I wouldn't wear brogues with a suit (except for maybe a casual tweed suit or something similar if I had one). With an odd jacket, these should be fine.

 

[RPM1]

The only odd thing about the shoes would probably be the lug sole, although it is of the relatively short, but visible, variety. The sports jacket I would like to pair them with is a mid-grey herringbone.

On the other hand, I do have the choice of a similar pair of shoes that come with a more discreet rubber sole. However, the colour of the second pair, although still dark brown, has a slight red undertone and the brogue pattern is more rugged.

Here's an image showing the heel for the second pair:




Functionally, I would imagine both would work just as well. Although my only other concern would be that the more discreet sole - pictured above - might give off the impression that I was trying too hard to hide the rubber sole?

Thanks again.

p.s. I should add that I do not intend to wear them with a suit and would like something that meets the casual look but still provides me the opportunity to wear a sports jacket on the odd day when I may want to be a little more dressed up. For more formal occasions, and as I live in England, I already have a pair of black cap-toe oxfords.

 

[Academic2]

[...]
p.s. I should add that I do not intend to wear them with a suit and would like something that meets the casual look but still provides me the opportunity to wear a sports jacket on the odd day when I may want to be a little more dressed up. For more formal occasions, and as I live in England, I already have a pair of black cap-toe oxfords.

In your initial posting you said you *did* wear them with a suit. You've now edited that out.

The picture is useful, as pictures almost always are. It doesn't make me want to change anything I said earlier, however.

Cheers,

Ac

 

[RPM1]

In your initial posting you said you *did* wear them with a suit. You've now edited that out.

The picture is useful, as pictures almost always are. It doesn't make me want to change anything I said earlier, however.

Cheers,

Ac

I did edit my post but it was either before I had a response or to correct punctuation or grammar. However, there was no mention of a suit but just that I was concerned if they could be worn with a sports jacket.

Thanks for re-instating your original response having considered the new information. Additionally, the fact that you feel they could be worn with a navy blazer, which I feel might be a little more formal than grey herringbone, makes your response even more useful.

Regards,
RPM1

 

[archibaldleach]

The lug sole is definitely a bit bulkier and more casual than what I was thinking of. I think it's probably fine to wear with a countrified sport coat (e.g. herringbone, tweed, etc.) and tie or perhaps a navy blazer sans tie. The other shoe (the one you provided the picture of) is a bit more subtle and could probably work with navy blazer, light blue shirt and tie during the day.

 

[Giuseppe Timore]

Haevy flannels, wide wale cords, good denim, moleskin, any of those plus a tweed jacket and soft tie would be great with those shoes. A Barbour and sweater combo would also be good.

 

[RPM1]

Many thanks for the responses and the additional details about possible trouser combinations - all extremely helpful.

I think I will go with the middle ground and order the second pair, which is pictured.

 

[RPM1]

Sorry to bump this again. But I had a question concerning what colour polish would work best with the shoes pictured.

I have been looking at the Kiwi brown or the Kiwi dark tan but can't decide which is closer or would have a better overall effect. On the other hand, as both of the mentioned polishes may affect the original colour, and as I should at first probably be more interested in simply keeping the leather protected, perhaps it would be safer to use the Kiwi neutral?

 

[archibaldleach]

Neutral polish works well to protect shoes. If you are concerned about using a colored polish and it affecting the color of your shoes over time, use one that is lighter than your current shoe color. This will preserve the color while a darker polish will slowly darken your shoes over time.

 

[RPM1]

I think the neutral is likely going to be the better option.

To add my thoughts, however, I imagine either the brown or neutral would probably be entirely safe to start with, while the dark tan may be something I could consider if I want to bring out a more prominent red colouring. Furthermore, given the original shoe colour, I think the dark tan may also turn out to be quite safe to use.

Having said that, I have not used the dark tan polish before, so that's something which will need to be closely looked at.

Thanks again, archibaldleach.

 

[PinkestFlamingo]

The shoe wonks at Church's and Cheaney have on separate occasions gone off on one about using Kiwi or any other polish that contains alcohol, which dries out the leather. (Anyone else remembering remembering that line from American Psycho here?)

If you just want to protect the leather and not colour them in any way then why not use a conditioning cream e.g. Saphir Renovateur?

 

[Academic2]

[...]

If you just want to protect the leather and not colour them in any way then why not use a conditioning cream e.g. Saphir Renovateur?

Before he starts slathering anything on his shoes he should browse the “Official Shoe Care Thread”:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc

Not everyone thinks the routine use of Renovateur is a good idea, feeling that it can dry out the leather.

Cheers,

Ac

 

[RPM1]

PinkestFlamingo, thanks for the suggestion.

However, I don't believe I will be polishing them often enough for the overall improvement to be worth the effort. Although, I have read good things about the Saphir Renovateur, so will add it to my list of products for future consideration.

Academic2, thanks for the link and the contrasting view.

As it stands, I certainly have more trust in time-tested products like Kiwi but that thread is clearly something I should read through before I consider ordering anything.