Dean Acheson from LIFE magazine

[Kei-bon]

the holey-sock photo (i won't quote it):

who *is* that?

 

[tutee]

Originally Posted by Manton

Tutee, I have never heard of a shetland suiting before. How did the trousers hold up?

um.. well normally they don't. You get 2 pairs and both bag rather soon. That is, if you use the default Shetland fabric which is loosely woven and ideally for jackets. However, it can be changed by picking a thinner yarn and more tightly woven fabric.

For example, you can alter that by picking a finer hair batch, thinner yarn and get a more tightly woven fabric but that is not practical because the cost of such thin Shetland yarn will be prohibitively high. Mainly, because Shetland fiber by default is coarser (roughly 20 to 30 microns) in nature but there are ways of playing around this in fabric weave.

 

[Vito]

JFK and Senator George Smathers (Democrat - Florida) on the left -- well-dressed, as always.

 

[idfnl]

Originally Posted by Kei-bon

the holey-sock photo (i won't quote it):

who *is* that?

Its that super-comb-licking-creep Paul Wolfowitz.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

5 mos pregnant + Chevy Vega green suit + thick white socks (didnt have time to change after tennis?)

I like most of the other looks, but this one is an epic fail. 100x better hidden in B & W

 

[benjamin831]

I'm thoroughly impressed by Acheson's sense of dress; his policies on the other hand, not so much.

 

[Mildly Consumptive]

Hi Tutee. Saxony makes sense. I can't recall seeing saxony cloth in any books. Does anyone still make it? It seems like it was always grouped along with Cheviot as a classic rough suiting.

Also, while the LondonLounge is down, I've been rereading my favourite AA/Esky posts of yours which I was smart enough to save (Vol 1 No VIII, Vol 2 No I, and Vol 3 No I). It is compelling stuff. Have you considered writing a book?

Originally Posted by tutee

its most likely not a whipcord but more of a hairy Saxony or Shetland. Below is a piece of fabric close to it.

 

[srivats]

What is most amazing to me in these B&W photos is the easy, carefree, nonchalant elegance with which people (even younger ones) wear their clothes in general, and suits in particular. We see 2-piece, 3-piece, SB, DB, notch laper, peak lapel, button down collar, spread collar - the whole wheel. I don't think people worried as much about spezzatura, pattern matching, what-shoe-with-this-shade-of-blue that gets so much discussion today. Also, I don't think today's RTW is anywhere close to even 10% of yesteryear ... bespoke is always an option but not all of us can afford it (or want to, even if we can afford). We have to look hard, and really hard in the myriad cornelianis, brionis, cucinelli, borelli <insert some english names> <insert some american names>, santoni, bruno magli, alloni edmontoni etc to find what we like. Buying clothes is becoming a chore I am beginning to detest, but till I can afford (or want to get) bespoke, I don't have a choice. Enough rants. Here are a few of my favourite pics from yesteryear. I think B&W makes them all the more special. I have a ton of these pics saved on my PC, and I will post them sometime soon in one consolidated thread.

... and some my favourite pics collarswith proper rolls:

 

[rnoldh]

Originally Posted by Vito

JFK and Senator George Smathers (Democrat - Florida) on the left -- well-dressed, as always.

I recognize JFK ( worldy ), Smathers ( dapper ), Humphrey ( Adlai Stevensonian ) and LBJ ( quintessentially Southern Senator ). But who is the other guy in the picture?

 

[eg1]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I think that most of the color criticism that I get time to time is a camera/monitor problem...but, absolutely: I am definitely prone to color-be-damned combos from time to time. Suck it up.



I love that he's wearing them into that suffocating humid subtropical environment, striding without sartorial care or social anxiety, looking relaxed and dapper (which is not to say anything about what disasters he help caused or helped to avert.)

Today, in contrast, we get this:

- B

If it's any consolation, whilst the clothing sense has degraded, the capacity for monumental policy kack-ups has not.

As for Acheson's clothes, the collar-rolls be damned -- those vests are the ****!

 

[Connemara]

If we're going to post well-dressed pols, we'll need some DPM.

 

[srivats]

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...wlows/DPM2.jpg

^ thanks for sharing the pics. Clinton was seen as the casual president, but he was a sharp dresser if he had to be ... the pic thta I just quote looks great.

 

[voxsartoria]

Fwok.

Daniel Patrick "Pat" Moynihan? With Dean Acheson?

Please: no more janitors.

No: janitors have a craft. No more Moynihan.

If you must deviate, give me George Frazier.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by srivats

WTF. Who are these guys?

Yalies?


- B

 

[LabelKing]

Originally Posted by edmorel

such an easy elegance in those suits. What happened to american tailoring and the american male

Crocs happened. He has a rather fetching attache case. ---- Another Trad BD collar, with the British affectation of a safety pin through the tie:

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by LabelKing

Crocs happened.

He has a rather fetching attache case.

How about the waxed moustache?

- B