Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[WestLinn]

Almost without exception, whenever someone writes or says "long story short", they are well past the point of saying that. ?

On a different note, I am not new to this place, but I have been away for a few years. I just purchased some 401 Alden's and now remember how comfortable Alden footwear is (I have a couple of pairs of Alden dress shoes that collect dust since I haven't worn dress shoes on a regular basis for at least five years).

For those that have both, can you compare White's to Aldens. I am focusing on another boot Alden boot purchase but maybe should consider a pair of White's (or Nicks or Wescos). Alden's are just so damn comfortable.

Personal Note: I lived in the PacNW in Seattle for almost 10 years and just recently moved from living in Portland for 7 years and traveled to Spokane, Eugene, (near Scappose), many times and never visited White's, Nick's or Truman. I did snag a few pairs at the Danner outlet since I had an office at the end of the street where the outlet is located (yes, I sold chips for those familiar with Airport BLVD).

 

[PACostag]

Thanks all for your ears, empathy online is so rare. 100% no blame being shot in White's direction, in fact I appreciate their concerns and that it was extended to me - because ultimately, the price to build the boot is still more than the hide, so I can eat one of the two costs (the hide) and still get a great, standard leather boot made. Eyeballing that beauty of a black elk-tan semi dress build...

Per usual, Kyle was quick to jump on this with me and I believe we're heading towards a mutually beneficial resolution.

 

[ronscuba]

Curious, why were you buying direct from the leather supplier and then sending it to Baker's ?

 

[Luscombe]

For my SD, Kyle recommended me to go half size more than my MP, which came out to the same as my brannock size. But I got it with open instep adjustment, heel clamp and uppers that were cut 1 size smaller. Fit turned out to be comfortable everywhere with good toe box room. I only had it for a week so remains to be seen how they will develop.

How did you know that you would require all of the above modifications to get a great fit?
Did you take other measurements? I am particularly interested in the 1 size smaller upper. I did not know that was a thing and it would solve the problem of my uppers touching on some of my shoes.
TIA

 

[alset_rl]

How did you know that you would require all of the above modifications to get a great fit?
Did you take other measurements? I am particularly interested in the 1 size smaller upper. I did not know that was a thing and it would solve the problem of my uppers touching on some of my shoes.
TIA

Instep adjustment was originally recommended by Kyle. I had another pair on 55 last where the heel had a tiny bit of slip which I mentioned to Kyle and he said they could do a heel clamp for me. Cutting the leather upper 1 size smaller was entirely my own request. I have heard of this being done with another PNW shoe maker so I thought I would try this with Whites and Kyle agreed. I requested this because of my low volume foot. I am satisfied with the results but if I were to order another pair again, I would probably size my boot 1/2 size smaller with in-step adjustment instead.

@Luscombe Does your uppers touch even with an open instep adjustment ?

 

[chicagoan2016]

How did you know that you would require all of the above modifications to get a great fit?
Did you take other measurements? I am particularly interested in the 1 size smaller upper. I did not know that was a thing and it would solve the problem of my uppers touching on some of my shoes.
TIA

Instep adjustment was recommended by Brandon for my feet. I too have low volume feet.

 

[Luscombe]

Instep adjustment was originally recommended by Kyle. I had another pair on 55 last where the heel had a tiny bit of slip which I mentioned to Kyle and he said they could do a heel clamp for me. Cutting the leather upper 1 size smaller was entirely my own request. I have heard of this being done with another PNW shoe maker so I thought I would try this with Whites and Kyle agreed. I requested this because of my low volume foot. I am satisfied with the results but if I were to order another pair again, I would probably size my boot 1/2 size smaller with in-step adjustment instead.

@Luscombe Does your uppers touch even with an open instep adjustment ?

Not on my SD or MP's. and I do not even know what an open instep adjustment is. I know, bad form to end a sentence with a verb. But the uppers do touch on several pair of handsewn Rancourts. I think I have low volume feet and narrow as well. Not sure if I can get Rancourt to size down on the uppers, interesting mod though, I may try it.

I am still trying to determine the best fit with Whites. I have a pair of SD's 55 last 10B on order now since BF. This will be my 4th pair including my MP's that fit really well. Hopefully these SD's will be a great fit.

 

[klank74]

Instep adjustment was originally recommended by Kyle. I had another pair on 55 last where the heel had a tiny bit of slip which I mentioned to Kyle and he said they could do a heel clamp for me. Cutting the leather upper 1 size smaller was entirely my own request. I have heard of this being done with another PNW shoe maker so I thought I would try this with Whites and Kyle agreed. I requested this because of my low volume foot. I am satisfied with the results but if I were to order another pair again, I would probably size my boot 1/2 size smaller with in-step adjustment instead.

@Luscombe Does your uppers touch even with an open instep adjustment ?

I’m having a hard time picturing this in my head. What does cutting the upper one size smaller actually entail? And what does it do? In my mind, I’m picturing the upper being pulled over the last and you can’t make the upper any smaller than the the last itself, right?

 

[alset_rl]

What does cutting the upper one size smaller actually entail? And what does it do?

What it does is that it gives a better fitting for people with thin ankles and foot like me so the top few inches of the uppers don't touch each other when the boot is tightly laced up. open instep is similar to this except it does the same for the instep area. That is my understanding. Someone with better knowledge could correct me if i am wrong.

 

[alset_rl]

I am still trying to determine the best fit with Whites. I have a pair of SD's 55 last 10B on order now since BF.

If you ordered during BF, your order must be very close to getting it shipped and too late for any changes. Your option is to wait and hope for the best fit.. all the best.

 

[Luscombe]

If you ordered during BF, your order must be very close to getting it shipped and too late for any changes. Your option is to wait and hope for the best fit.. all the best.

Yeah, I am not looking to make any changes. If the SD's fit as well as my MP's then I will know I have the fit dialed in. Only thing missing on the MP's is the arch support.

 

[Netvine]

I have a question for those who have had used boots re-built on a different last. Specifically to swing last for width. Did they replace the vamp entirely? I’m guessing they would replace both midsoles at that time as well as they would be a different shape. I’m weighing this versus the cost of a new pair in the future. How have your rebuild experiences been?

 

[Woodtroll]

I have a question for those who have had used boots re-built on a different last. Specifically to swing last for width. Did they replace the vamp entirely? I’m guessing they would replace both midsoles at that time as well as they would be a different shape. I’m weighing this versus the cost of a new pair in the future. How have your rebuild experiences been?

I have never changed lasts or sizes on a rebuilt boot, but a "normal" rebuild usually includes replacing everything but the quarters (uppers), tongue, and heel. So you get new soles, vamps, midsoles, insoles, restitching of anything on the re-used leather that needs it, and replacement of any hardware that needs it. Practically a brand-new boot for roughly half the cost of a new one, not counting shipping.I don't think it would be hard at all to change lasts on a rebuild, as long as the last and size changes weren't too drastically different from the original boot.

 

[klank74]

Question for anyone who uses their Whites for work in a shop setting where they’re exposed to grease, oil, coolant, dirt, etc. ..... what do you treat the edges of your midsoles with? I got my new smoke jumpers the other week and immediately treated the edges with some Resolene. I’ve only been wearing them out and about for now, trying to break them in before I start using them for work. We’ve had snow the last couple days, and just walking through the snow too and from my car and when taking my dog out, almost all the Resolene has come off. Makes me think it might not cut it when I start using them for work (diesel mechanic). I use Obenaufs HDLP or Huberds Boot grease in the uppers to protect them, but I was afraid to use them in the midsoles since they use glue to help hold them and the heel stacks together. I’m just trying to avoid the ply’s separating and causing squeaking issues.

 

[Napping_Sloth]

got mine, 4 months to the day. theyre maybe a half size big in the toe box, but the arch fits perfectly and the width is good. i figure this is the correct size according to what i read here?

both toeboxes had scuffs already, but since its roughout its to be expected i guess

How do they look? I'm interested in doing a very similar build