Cordovan Oxfords?

[JonF]

I apologize in advance if this has been beaten to death. I notice that most Cordovan shoes seem to be of the Blucher variety (e.g., plain and split toe) and not the more formal Oxford styles (there are exceptions of course). Is there something about cordovan that makes it more suited to a blucher?

Thanks!

- Jonathan

 

[srivats]

What? Both AE and Alden make shell cordovan oxfords ... check alden models here: http://www.aldenshop.com/DrawShoes.asp?ParentID=94

 

[imatlas]

JSIA

 

[texas_jack]

i have shell wingtips from Alden.

 

[makewayhomer]

Is there something about cordovan that makes it more suited to a blucher?

lots of people think the big cordo ripples aren't a good match for wearing with a suit. I think they are right.

or at least, there is not a compelling reason to pay so much extra for shell in this case.

 

[JonF]

Thanks for the feedback. Yes... I do realize that AE and Alden do have some Oxfords in Cordovan. It just seemed to me that they offered many more non-formal styles in cordovan. This seemed to be the case with other manufacturers as well. This was just my observation... however I haven't done a thorough search I admit. I thought there may have been an advantage to having a formal oxford in non-cordovan.

 

[JayJay]

Shell oxfords are readily available.

 

[JonF]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Shell oxfords are readily available.

I do realize that there are oxfords offered in Shell... it just seemed to me that shell was more often found on bluchers. I just did a quick search of Crocket and Jones as well... and it seems that the vast majority of shoes offered in shell are of the Blucher/Derby variety. This is by no means an exhaustive search... but here are examples from Allen Edmonds (note... the strand is missing from this part of their web site) and Crocket and Jones.

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...ew=image&sort=

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/crockett/ranges/108.php

I have been very tempted by these Alden's lately...

http://www.aldenshop.com/DrawOneShoe.asp?CategoryID=110

... and looking for comparable oxfords from other manufacturers just made me wonder if there was a reason why manufacturers don't offer more of their high end oxfords in shell.

 

[NoVaguy]

Originally Posted by JonF

Thanks for the feedback. Yes... I do realize that AE and Alden do have some Oxfords in Cordovan. It just seemed to me that they offered many more non-formal styles in cordovan. This seemed to be the case with other manufacturers as well. This was just my observation... however I haven't done a thorough search I admit. I thought there may have been an advantage to having a formal oxford in non-cordovan.

Part of this is because shell cordovan is more of an Ivy-Trad American thing (but not exclusively so), and Americans think of shoes like the longwing blucher and tassel loafer (and to a lesser extent, the plaintoe blucher) as acceptable as business dress shoes, and in fact, as highly preferable business dress shoes. So these styles were frequently sold and frequently made in shell cordovan. The balmoral captoe was still often purchased in black, so why get a captoe shell cordo shoe before you get the blucher or loafer styles.

If I had to describe a traditional 5 or 6-shoe business dress wardrobe for the Ivy-Trad American in the '50s, it would be (1) burgundy shell cordovan wingtips and (2) burgundy shell tassel loafers, (3) black balmoral captoe, (4) black bal wingtip, (5) scotch grain tan plaintoe or longwing blucher and (6) maybe a dress saddle shoe. Casual shoes would include suede saddle shoes and white or dirty bucks.

Only after those were bought would I be inclined to consider a balmoral cordo shoe.

None of these are hard and fast rules, just thoughts on what is most likely to happen.

 

[ferguscan]

Shell is a rustic leather (which I enjoy wearing). It is inherently casual, IMO. I think shell oxfords are kind of silly.

 

[JonF]

Thanks for your thoughts on this NoVaguy!

Originally Posted by NoVaguy

Part of this is because shell cordovan is more of an Ivy-Trad American thing (but not exclusively so), and Americans think of shoes like the longwing blucher and tassel loafer (and to a lesser extent, the plaintoe blucher) as acceptable as business dress shoes, and in fact, as highly preferable business dress shoes. So these styles were frequently sold and frequently made in shell cordovan. The balmoral captoe was still often purchased in black, so why get a captoe shell cordo shoe before you get the blucher or loafer styles.

If I had to describe a traditional 5 or 6-shoe business dress wardrobe for the Ivy-Trad American in the '50s, it would be (1) burgundy shell cordovan wingtips and (2) burgundy shell tassel loafers, (3) black balmoral captoe, (4) black bal wingtip, (5) scotch grain tan plaintoe or longwing blucher and (6) maybe a dress saddle shoe. Casual shoes would include suede saddle shoes and white or dirty bucks.

Only after those were bought would I be inclined to consider a balmoral cordo shoe.

None of these are hard and fast rules, just thoughts on what is most likely to happen.

 

[stant62]

You're forgetting the LHS/Weejun.

Originally Posted by NoVaguy

Part of this is because shell cordovan is more of an Ivy-Trad American thing (but not exclusively so), and Americans think of shoes like the longwing blucher and tassel loafer (and to a lesser extent, the plaintoe blucher) as acceptable as business dress shoes, and in fact, as highly preferable business dress shoes. So these styles were frequently sold and frequently made in shell cordovan. The balmoral captoe was still often purchased in black, so why get a captoe shell cordo shoe before you get the blucher or loafer styles.

If I had to describe a traditional 5 or 6-shoe business dress wardrobe for the Ivy-Trad American in the '50s, it would be (1) burgundy shell cordovan wingtips and (2) burgundy shell tassel loafers, (3) black balmoral captoe, (4) black bal wingtip, (5) scotch grain tan plaintoe or longwing blucher and (6) maybe a dress saddle shoe. Casual shoes would include suede saddle shoes and white or dirty bucks.

Only after those were bought would I be inclined to consider a balmoral cordo shoe.

None of these are hard and fast rules, just thoughts on what is most likely to happen.

 

[NoVaguy]

Originally Posted by stant62

You're forgetting the LHS/Weejun.

Ackk, good catch. That's a 3rd or 4th non-oxford/balmoral model that is closely identified with the Ivy-Trad look and done in shell. So, traditional options in shell include the Longwing Blucher, Plaintoe Blucher, Tassel loafer, and LHS (if not doing the weejun).

From a manufacturer's point of view, if you're making 3 or 4 shell models, those are the ones you would do before you consider an balmoral since they're traditionally shell.

The other thought I just had is that one of the problems with working with shell is that it can split on the last - I've heard that some English or continental manufacturers dislike shell for this tendency. Perhaps balmoral oxfords are the style most likely to split and therefore companies that don't specialize heavily in shell tend to stay away from the oxfords?