Brooks Brothers Bankruptcy Thread

[smittycl]

But to the point made above, BB has to offer something compelling. And their clothes just aren’t that. That’s not to say the sack-suit style is the problem. Even their Italian-style models were meh.

Zegna and Canali have successfully stepped in to where BB used to be in terms of appealing to the aspirational shopper.

On a related note, I was at a BB charity function a few years back, and was wearing a Zegna tie. One of the reps really liked the tie and asked what brand it was. I replied, and he said something to the effect of, ‘Yeah, Brooks would never sell a tie that nice’.

I ended up thrifting all but a few of my Brooks ties. Rough silk and they always made awful knots or I could only make awful with them I guess. Zegna, Brioni, Cappelli, Marinella, hard to compete with them.

 

[smittycl]

Really? I think PS stopped their bespoke service and have 2 MtM program I'm aware, one is with Samuelsohn, and one is the new Custom Lab made in China thing (with cheaper start pricing too), which line is Oxxford?

I know some RTW top of the line is made in America (instead of use to be Isaia quite a while ago), I assume those are Oxxford,? but thought those are phasing out too?

I see some cheaper Made in America ones as well, I assume those are HF.

Missed this one at first. Seriously expensive but they don't say where it's made. Weird. Typo?

 

[papado]

Missed this one at first. Seriously expensive but they don't say where it's made. Weird. Typo?

View attachment 1424152

I think it's Oxxford (picture of interior trouser finishing is what does it for me). I don't think they have a lower-level MiUSA per someone's earlier comments but it does look like they have some Italian made suits still. Not sure who makes them:

Wool Windowpane Suit

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

Blue Stripe Suit

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

Blue Plaid Suit

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

 

[Phileas Fogg]

One thing I don’t fully get, in this discussion: people keep talking about the drastic reduction in suit wearing as a major determinant if BB’s demise but they sell all sorts of clothes besides suits.

As does everyone else. They offer very few unique items that set them apart from others, one being their Scottish made cashmere.

 

[othertravel]

In terms of margins for each unit of tailored clothing sold (and please correct me if I’m wrong), but it seems like PS has found a sweet spot by using Samuelsohn. They can charge slightly more (or roughly the same) than BB for a full canvass suit, but have lower wholesale costs.

When I was visiting a local boutique a few years ago, they left out a document on the sales floor with the wholesale pricing for Samuelsohn suits (it was the special price list for employees who wanted to buy suits, but was also labeled as wholesale pricing). Let’s just say it was very very low. Combined with the weak CAD, PS found a good supplier.

 

[othertravel]

I think it's Oxxford (picture of interior trouser finishing is what does it for me). I don't think they have a lower-level MiUSA per someone's earlier comments but it does look like they have some Italian made suits still. Not sure who makes them:

Wool Windowpane Suit

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

Blue Stripe Suit

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

Blue Plaid Suit

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

I’ve seen a few different Italian makers for PS at that price range. Caruso, and I think Lubiam.

 

[clee1982]

this is the cheaper made in USA stuff (not sure if it's getting phased out)

Grey Plaid Sport Jacket

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

 

[EdwardWilson]

In terms of margins for each unit of tailored clothing sold (and please correct me if I’m wrong), but it seems like PS has found a sweet spot by using Samuelsohn. They can charge slightly more (or roughly the same) than BB for a full canvass suit, but have lower wholesale costs.

When I was visiting a local boutique a few years ago, they left out a document on the sales floor with the wholesale pricing for Samuelsohn suits (it was the special price list for employees who wanted to buy suits, but was also labeled as wholesale pricing). Let’s just say it was very very low. Combined with the weak CAD, PS found a good supplier.

Please share wholesale price you can't tease us.

 

[clee1982]

To be fair, I think Paul Stuart is like the old Polo Ralph Lauren (Made in Italy, Corneliani half canvass days), i.e. it use better fabrics than the mainline

 

[Count de Monet]

If PS does indeed have a cheaper MiUSA manufacturer, it could be Hickey Freeman in Rochester. They make some things for Ralph Lauren Polo. And their newish (6 years ago) parent is the same Canadian company that owns Samuelson.

Regarding BB floor space devoted to casual clothes, the last time I was in their Plano (regular retail) and Little Rock (outlet) stores both not only devoted 50% of their footprint to such items, it was the front 50%. You had to wander into the back to find suits, sport coats, tailored trousers, and dress shirts.

I hope they decide to try to be “smaller and better” but they may simply be too big to contract that much.

 

[clee1982]

If PS does indeed have a cheaper MiUSA manufacturer, it could be Hickey Freeman in Rochester. They make some things for Ralph Lauren Polo. And their newish (6 years ago) parent is the same Canadian company that owns Samuelson.

Regarding BB floor space devoted to casual clothes, the last time I was in their Plano (regular retail) and Little Rock (outlet) stores both not only devoted 50% of their footprint to such items, it was the front 50%. You had to wander into the back to find suits, sport coats, tailored trousers, and dress shirts.

I hope they decide to try to be “smaller and better” but they may simply be too big to contract that much.

well, this

Grey Plaid Sport Jacket

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

Made in USA $1.5k retail (might even be Southwick at that px and that time frame)

 

[clee1982]

so does anyone have Kamakura Tokyo Slim OCBD vs. the Made in USA BB Shirt?

Milano Fit Oxford Check Sport Shirt

Brooks Brothers

www.brooksbrothers.com

how does the collar compare? And would S = say 38-33?

 

[sargeinaz]

I liked the collar on the BB more, but the Milano fit didn’t have a box pleat so
I didn’t buy it

also, the BB material felt “nicer”, but I have no clue how it holds up. My kamakura oxfords are kind of thin IMO. I prefer a thicker, more robust oxford (Or any shirting material)....sweating be damned.

 

[clee1982]

so the BB version has no pleats at all?

 

[comrade]

"I prefer a thicker, more robust oxford (Or any shirting material)....sweating be damned."

If you like robust oxfords then check out Hilditich and Key. Two caveats :
Their Button downs do not have proper roll ( I never wear BDs)
Current oxford selection not in standard colors colors ( Mine are pink and blue)
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