Brioni or T&A Bespoke Shirts

[Mecnun]

Any opinion from forum members who makes better shirts between Brioni or T&A?

 

[VMan]

No firsthand experience, but I have heard that the T&A MTM/Custom program can be quite...'trying'.

Not sure if the full bespoke service is different.

I feel that the fabric quality and construction quality is better with Brioni. However, if you want a distinctly British aesthetic, your best bet would be T&A.

 

[LabelKing]

It is imperative that for all sakes of tailoring heritage, the Italians are the go-betweens and upstarts of the international order. While it is important to note their contribution for various red coloured substances such as auto-mobiles and a variety of sauces, their tailoring history is not within a proper sphere of posterity. Therein, it is apparent that the storied firm of Turnbull & Asser is one's final destination; but one likes to think that the ground is the final one.

 

[The_Foxx]

I'll get to try on my first Brioni made to measure shirt in mid april, if you'd like to see photos. It was damned expensive, tho-- I think I might stick with Robert Talbott Estate shirts, which worked really well for me (bought two this year).

I bought the sky blue color; below are the details on construction.

http://directclothiers.com/mm5/graph...U.-one.BIG.jpg

Quality Points of a Brioni Dress Shirt!
Hand produced (68%) while the remaining work is hand directed by machine.
Shirts assembled "Single Needle Tailoring", the most expensive method, involving at least 21 stitches to the inch. Stitching becomes almost invisible, but enables the shirt to retain its original shape through many more washings.

Only the best quality cottons are used, they will have a more luxurious hand and take the dying process far better. Like other natural fibers the finer they are the better they breathe along with the wearer's body.
Sleeves are set into place by hand with a forward pitch to give maximum movement and comfort.

Collars and cuffs are top-fused only for impeccable appearance on the outside and maximum comfort on the inside against the skin.

Buttons - The highest quality buttons are used "Australian Mother of Pearl" and are cut from the thick center of the pearl. These buttons have incredible strength, durability and are very distinguished looking.

Over 40 pressing stages, each has its own "quality check point" throughout the production cycle. Upon delivery, you will see, feel and examine a near flawless creation of a Brioni dress shirt.

 

[sloaney]

no experience with either, but i would choose brioni in a heartbeat. although no reflection on the store itself and its products, remember who owns turnbull and asser. the harrods store, in my personal opinion, is laughably tacky for an upscale store. egyptian themed elevators? a gold fountain commemorating princess diana and al-fayed's son? signs all over the store warning against theft?

 

[iyorito]

TA bespoke shirts are quite poorly sewn. It's a shame because the fabric designs are unique, and collar and cuff designs are quite charming. Everytime I visit the shop in London, I pick up a few fabrics (patterns). I used to bring the fabrics to Matuozzo in Naples, but now I have them made at Ascot Chang since I do not go to Naples anymore. US$75 for workmanship which I think is a fabulous deal.

 

[Shirtmaven]

these are very different shirts

T & A is an English style: Non fused collars, fuller cut, etc.

Brioni is Neoploitan with the hand stitiching. slightly puffed sleeve.
fused collars and cuffs
try on a rtw of each and you will see the difference right away.. don't just throw out some names because you read about them in a Magazine article.

MTM/custom at both places is very expensive. Make sure you like what the finished product will look like.

Carl

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by The_Foxx

Quality Points of a Brioni Dress Shirt!
Hand produced (68%)
I heard it's actually only 57%.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Tomasso

I heard it's actually only 57%.

I am not a fan of Brioni shirts at all.

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Tomasso

I heard it's actually only 57%.

Yes, but there's a 25% coefficient for the 43% percentage that is made by hand directed machine.
(25% of 43%) + 57% = 68%.

Oftentimes I read certain hagiographic posts and I am reminded of something I read long, long ago about medieval troubadours and the chansons de geste and other songs they composed. The author reminded readers that these troubadours were describing people and events they would necessarily have any personal experience of, or which they would have glimpsed at a distance. Still, in their descriptions every woman is beautiful, and a saddle she rode on must be "rich Spanish leather" due to this idealization of space. We add to this idealization of space that of time as well: time and time again, as repetition from one singer to another adds to the embroidery of praise, and time's own distance as events recede into first rosy-watered nostalgia and then to a dimmer, more esthetically forgiving, past. In other words, every imprecision or uncertainty is resolved in favor of the subject. And that is the case with certain descriptions I have read here. Instead of troubadours, we have journeyman idiot magazine writers and PR flaks drafting marketing material about things they themselves know little. Those chansons are now transmitted to an eager public which wishes to aspire -- and no one is more eager to believe than someone who wishes to aspire.

To wit, the Brioni gibberish above. How does one assign a percentage to hand work? What does Hand produced mean? Single needle tailoring has NOTHING to do with stitches per inch, and if you are getting 21 stitches to the inch you're not getting them done by hand. However, that many stitches per inch hopefully indicates a durable stitch. Australian MoP -- means very little; trocas come from Australia too. MoP is always touted as incredibly durable and strong, but I don't see it. I've never had problems with shirts with plastic buttons; I've seen plenty of MoP buttons chip simply from the stress of the spin cycle. I'd hope Brioni's don't, and recently I've not had that problem with my own shirts. I do greatly prefer MoP to plastic because good MoP is beautiful.

 

[The_Foxx]

just for the record, those aren't my facts and figures-- just quoted from my source of the brioni shirts. i'm hoping for the best, but really it's just so i can own a single brioni shirt, and with a collar I like-- most of the RTW shirt collars are tiny, and the collar space varies. here's hoping it turns out well!

Again, highly recommend the robert talbott estate shirts-- i think you can see a little of it in this photo (bear in mind i had not yet laundered the shirt before wearing)

 

[jml90]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I am not a fan of Brioni shirts at all.
Me neither there OTR pricing is ridiculous. For that price you can get a few bespoke shirts from CEGO or any of the other firms. A $400 shirt that is not made for you is a waste. IMO

 

[LabelKing]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I am not a fan of Brioni shirts at all.
One is prompted to enquire: Tommie Smith?

 

[hopkins_student]

Since Brioni fuses their cuffs, that's a no go for me. I am indifferent right now between fused and unfused collars, but I'm trending away from fused. I also agree that T&A shirts could be sewn better. I'm sure there's a better option somewhere than T&A and Brioni.

 

[summej2]

As has already been said, these are radically different shirts. I have and like both, but, for the money, I prefer Fray for a RTW Italian shirt. That said, Brioni has held up very well over time in the wash, T&A somewhat less so.