Bespoke shoes

[imatlas]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

http://www.bownsbespoke.com/jamestaylorson.html

If you use orthotics...try James Taylor.

Thanks, that's a new name for me.

Unfortunately, those shoes are

: I don't like the last, the heel or the design. That could all be due to bad choices by the customer, of course.

 

[courty]

You may want to consult Dominic Casey at Cleverley's. I believe he has a background in orthopaedic shoes.

 

[rjsphd]

You should have the orthotics built into the shoe. I wear orthotics and had custom boots made. The maker insisted on copying the orthotic into the footbed. It works great, well beyond my expectations, and I am picky. My feet are a mess and I wear orthotics in every pair of shoes except the boots. Good luck. You have a great choice of makers in London.

 

[DWFII]

In most parts of this country, a shoemaker who is not also a licensed pedorthist may encounter legal problems if he tries to build an orthotic into the bottom of the last.

Orthotics must be prescribed by a podiatrist and a shoemaker is not considered qualified to either prescribe or fill the prescription of a Podiatrist unless he too is licensed.

Of course if the customer asks and the shoemaker obliges who is going to complain to "squeal?"

On the other hand, an orthotic poorly transposed into the bottom of a last can cripple a person almost as surely as a poorly fitted horseshoe can cripple a horse. The horse can't complain but the shoe customer can.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by imatlas

This is Central Europe vs Western Europe. From what I've learned here and elsewhere, the 'Germanic' school of shoemaking involves more of an "orthopedic" approach, including arch support, extended counter, asymmetric heels, etc. Makers in the UK, France and Italy take a different approach. Cleverly told me they would build in extra room to accommodate my orthotics, not that they would eliminate the need for them.

Yup- thanks for confirming.

 

[Concordia]

My wife has some Cleverleys on order that will accomodate orthotic insoles. Cleverley's Dominic Casey used to be in that part of the business, so he's fairly helpful in making sure that it all works. If I had to choose only one shoemaker (and money were no object), that's where I'd look first.

Lobb is still probably the most famous-- and certainly the most expensive-- name in London. But while their style is loveable and difficult to find exactly duplicated anywhere else, it's hard to argue that they are the best in town anymore.

 

[Master-Classter]

I always thought alladin was barefoot?

 

[pgd3]

A good shoe CAN eliminate some orthotics.

Exceptions - I would never eliminate an orthotic that was provided for diabetic conditions.

But if what you need is heel control and arch support there are a few things that a well fit dress shoe can have.

As mentioned a good fitting shoe, with an extended medial counter and a "thomas" orthopedic heel, which extends medially under the arch can go a long way towards supporting a pronated flat foot.

If someone has a high arch and issues with pressure on the ball of the foot, the standard cork/leather footbeds will conform quite a bit.

Steel shanks - which for instance Alden advertises, and Allen Edmonds advertises not using - a steel shank keeps the shank of the shoe supported for a flat arch.


Also depending on your orthotic design, the person who provided it may be able to slim it way down. Like <1/8" overall thickness under the heel. Again depending on the condition you wear it for.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Concordia

If I had to choose only one shoemaker (and money were no object), that's where I'd look first.

in Op's location/territory?

Originally Posted by Concordia

Lobb is still probably the most famous-- and certainly the most expensive-- name in London. But while their style is loveable and difficult to find exactly duplicated anywhere else, it's hard to argue that they are the best in town anymore.

funny, you mention that. i had the chance to peruse through Master Kiss' heritage. there was a three strap boot and a boot with lizard lining. first thought, lobb is copying from him...

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

I always thought alladin was barefoot?

watch skin deep

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by pgd3

...

good lord, i expect the maker and his gang to take care of this, whether he is in london or timbuktu.

 

[alladin]

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

I always thought alladin was barefoot?

Haha, that cracked me up!

Thanks for your opinions.

The reason i have been prescribed orthotics is because I have flat feet. I've been wearing them for about 10 years but should have had them from a young age. I suffered terrible hip and knee pain and my GP did not have a clue. Over the years having worn shoes that did not provide adequate support has caused my metatarsals to collapse and a condition called chondromalacia (runners knee)!

I have been admiring the Gaziano and Girling shoes on this forum and they appear to be very nice.

 

[Concordia]

Originally Posted by fritzl

in Op's location/territory?


...

Cleverley is a London maker, and OP is based in London.

 

[Xenon]

Originally Posted by DWFII

In most parts of this country, a shoemaker who is not also a licensed pedorthist may encounter legal problems if he tries to build an orthotic into the bottom of the last.
.


Leaving the term orthotics aside, does the above mean that you cannot privide a boot/shes that does not have a flat footbed. Basically you cannot, without fear of potential trouble, sculpt the last bottom?

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by Xenon

Leaving the term orthotics aside, does the above mean that you cannot privide a boot/shes that does not have a flat footbed. Basically you cannot, without fear of potential trouble, sculpt the last bottom?
Well, in the first place a last bottom is never flat. It has radius' and contours that address curves and arches that are natural to the foot. Additionally, a bespoke maker will be very deliberate in his choice of materials for the insole--always leather, and preferably from the shoulder. High quality leather insoles are generally thick enough and soft enough to conform to the idiosyncrasies of the foot without sacrificing anything in terms of longevity or strength--creating what is known as a footbed. Footbeds will be unique to the customer in a way that cannot be duplicated (or even approximated) by leatherboard or a leather sockliner over leatherboard. Or even a cheap, thin, leather insole backed by a cork or sponge rubber insole filler. That said, the bespoke maker is always at the behest of the customer. If a customer comes in and orders a pair of shoes which will accommodate bunions or plantar warts or other plantar surface anomalies, the shoemaker is free to honour that request...or not. But in such cases, the shoemaker is not prescribing corrective measures nor interpreting a prescription. Or, for that matter, "practicing medicine." And because he is just doing what the customer specified, he's not open to legal action. The law (in this state, at least) is written to make a formal prescription from a physician the issue. With it you're dispensing medical services; without it you're just fulfilling a request.