Bespoke: Expectations, Results, Reflection

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by emptym

Interestingly, Patrick asked me if I wanted the stitching on the swelled edges to be handsewn or not. I said it didn't matter. He looked at the example I had and said that on the fabric I ordered, handsewn edges would disappear into the fabric.

I doubt that Chan would hand stitch the margins if they have an expensive (to a tailor of their production volume) pic stitch machine in house. So, in reality, I would guess that the choices offered to you were really both machine finished. The term "handsewn" sits uneasily on the slippery slope.

Originally Posted by zbromer

I started using Gordon Yao as my tailor. They are coming to town soon. I'll inquire about the hand work vs. machine work. The stitching on the lapels and pockets of my coats does appear to be done by hand.

The linings are felled by hand and the lap seams and other visible pic stitching are also done by hand in the Yaos that I have examined.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by TRINI

Oil or no oil?

Depends on whether the tailor is Greek or not.

Many are.


- B

 

[maomao1980]

Extra Virgin v.s. Peanut Oil

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by maomao1980

Extra Virgin v.s. Peanut Oil

What about Sesame oil?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by maomao1980

Extra Virgin v.s. Peanut Oil

Use butter if you are in combat with a English or German tailor.

Ghee for Jheeta, though.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by TRINI

What about Sesame oil?

Good for Oriental tailors.


- B

 

[edmorel]

walking into threak knowing I will regret it



Does anyone whom gets bespoke just specify the most basic of issues (patch versus besom, single versus side vents) and then let the tailor do what they do and end up happy? I ask not to disparage the micro managers or those that educate themselves to a PhD level on fabrics, tailoring, regional styles etc but just to give voice to another group of bespoke customers. I think if a noob that was interested in going bespoke saw the many threads here and on LL, they would probably feel more overwhelmed than they would feel confident. The enjoyment of the garment/process is different to each individual and there is nothing wrong with making the exercise an academic one in which the client looks for every detail to be within a certain parameter but anyone just go to their tailor, pick out the fabric, tell them "3 patch pockets"pick up the garment, wear it and not think about it or any "improvements" (assuming you are on your 2nd, 3rd etc commission with the same tailor) ?

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by edmorel

walking into threak knowing I will regret it



Does anyone whom gets bespoke just specify the most basic of issues (patch versus besom, single versus side vents) and then let the tailor do what they do and end up happy? I ask not to disparage the micro managers or those that educate themselves to a PhD level on fabrics, tailoring, regional styles etc but just to give voice to another group of bespoke customers. I think if a noob that was interested in going bespoke saw the many threads here and on LL, they would probably feel more overwhelmed than they would feel confident. The enjoyment of the garment/process is different to each individual and there is nothing wrong with making the exercise an academic one in which the client looks for every detail to be within a certain parameter but anyone just go to their tailor, pick out the fabric, tell them "3 patch pockets"pick up the garment, wear it and not think about it or any "improvements" (assuming you are on your 2nd, 3rd etc commission with the same tailor) ?
Yes, I do.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by edmorel

Does anyone whom gets bespoke just specify the most basic of issues (patch versus besom, single versus side vents) and then let the tailor do what they do and end up happy?

That's what I do with Steed. In ten years or so, I've asked for only three or four changes in addition to what you just summarized.


- B

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Yes, I do.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

That's what I do with Steed. In ten years or so, I've asked for only three or four changes from what you just summarized.


- B

I don't want to make it seem like this is the right way to do it, as I said, the enjoyment in the garment/process is a very personalized event. I buy a car based on looks and reviews, others like to do a "deep dive" into the drivetrain, electronics etc etc. i don't think either one of us enjoys the car more than the other. I just brought this up because a lot of times we get into the minutae of the garments and their construction and it seems very daunting to someone that may be considering getting into bespoke or even to someone that just lets the tailor do their thing.

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

That's what I do with Steed. In ten years or so, I've asked for only three or four changes in addition to what you just summarized.


- B

Is this subsequent to any period of micromanaging you might have had after he perfected your fit and preferences, or was this almost always the case from the start?

 

[maomao1980]

It is the nirvana we all hope to achieve one day, no Jheeta.

 

[RSS]

Originally Posted by edmorel

Does anyone whom gets bespoke just specify the most basic of issues (patch versus besom, single versus side vents) and then let the tailor do what they do and end up happy? I ask not to disparage the micro managers or those that educate themselves to a PhD level on fabrics, tailoring, regional styles etc but just to give voice to another group of bespoke customers. I think if a noob that was interested in going bespoke saw the many threads here and on LL, they would probably feel more overwhelmed than they would feel confident. The enjoyment of the garment/process is different to each individual and there is nothing wrong with making the exercise an academic one in which the client looks for every detail to be within a certain parameter but anyone just go to their tailor, pick out the fabric, tell them "3 patch pockets"pick up the garment, wear it and not think about it or any "improvements" (assuming you are on your 2nd, 3rd etc commission with the same tailor) ?
That's pretty much what I do. I typically go to a tailor because I like the house style and have little desire to change it.

 

[RSS]

Originally Posted by epa

What about vanity?
That's present to some degree in any and everyone on Style Forum.

 

[aportnoy]

Originally Posted by edmorel

I don't want to make it seem like this is the right way to do it, as I said, the enjoyment in the garment/process is a very personalized event. I buy a car based on looks and reviews, others like to do a "deep dive" into the drivetrain, electronics etc etc. i don't think either one of us enjoys the car more than the other. I just brought this up because a lot of times we get into the minutae of the garments and their construction and it seems very daunting to someone that may be considering getting into bespoke or even to someone that just lets the tailor do their thing.

Pussies. I get my sleeve pitch protractor calibrated by German astrophysicists.