Australian Members

[herringbonePete]

Pete, with respect, I've got to disagree with your view that Simon Crompton's (of a Permanent Style blog) shirt fits well.

Here's the review from Simon's blog:

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2013/02/burgos-of-madrid-bespoke-shirt-review.html

It's too wide across the shoulders and the collar looks too small for him. I can't help but think that it's significant that he doesn't show a photo of the shirt being worn while buttoned up to the collar.

A well-made shirt doesn't need to be wider in the shoulders so as to fit well across the chest. If it is well made and well-cut, it can have shoulders that are spot on but still have sufficient fabric in the chest and back to give you ease of movement, without swamping you in fabric.

Your point about physique having a lot to do with fit is certainly right - it's a lot easier for a skinny guy to look good in tailored clothing than it is for a fat guy - but the whole point of made-to-measure/bespoke clothing is for it to fit well, and that includes neither being too tight nor too loose.

I think we cuss the ill-fitting shirts that are so baggy I for one notice that often fashion shirts are made to be snug around the collar - especially if it is not to go with a tie. So
I prefer that over 90s bagginess.

Incidentally, my made to measure shirt is probably too tight with a tie.

It's not perfect but it is not a disaster. For one thing it needs an iron before I can really see. I also need to see a photo of the whole model and how it hangs in general.
The shirt just looks like it is being worn by a metro-sexual who has gone to Myer.

If my shirts were made perfect in the shoulder with enough slack for the chest - yes - I would look barrel-chested.
I contemplated posting a fit-pic of my shirt but to be honest, although it is, moreorless, fine, the photo itself (a photo can lie) made it look so awful and me so out of porportion it would be a futile exercise!

So I have decided photos are not the best, and essentially as we all know, we know our physiques well - and need to tell our tailors that when they measure us!

 

[charliechan]



WIWT

May the better team win!
Martin Crowe wearing a nice 3 piece glen paid suit. 3 roll 2 jacket as well.

 

[Styleternity]

Who's doing the threads for this instalment? TF again?

I think they should be getting PJohnson, or maybe B&Tailor. Tom Ford is like, so naughties.

@Coxsackie , I am almost certain that Janny Temime (the current costume designer for the franchise) is using TF again. So just rebranded Zegna Couture. Ever since the Brioni days I've been wondering why EON (or whoever finances the films now) don't give the tailors on The Row another shot.

Perhaps it might be the increased physicality of the stunt work they're doing these days. Further still perhaps, that - as someone on another SF thread already pointed out - maybe the body close suit is the de rigeur trend these days. Wouldn't mind seeing Bond in something with more of a drape cut a la B&Tailor to be honest, if only out of curiosity.

 

[JohnsNotHere]



May the better team win!
Martin Crowe wearing a nice 3 piece glen paid suit. 3 roll 2 jacket as well.

Should be a cracker! Well pleased it's a Anzac final.

Martin has some sartorial chops, and a true gentlemen to boot. His piece on the final was emotional.

 

[Geoffrey Firmin]



 I don't smoke, I just noticed the price.

That's the same as Melbourne, my old man who grew up as an immigrant in Melbourne's northern suburbs can tell me all kinds of stories about suburbs that are still unsafe today, but I was just talking about the conservative business dress.

Sorry to hear about your son, hope he's okay. There was a large police presence in Melbourne, and they all seemed quite busy, none were standing around. As far as I'm concerned, they do a fantastic job in the city on Saturday nights, it's a pretty thankless task, but they make it feel just that little bit safer.

Foxy

Sydney conservative business dress back in the day used to be quite safe, Kings Cross when down the drain in the 80's due to crazed junkies and drunken wastes. Sydney has had episodes of roaming gang violence with Sharpies in the 70's Skins in the 80's I can only speak about the inner city areas where I lived. As for Western Sydney my nephews weren't allowed to wear their good Nikes on the trains in from Liverpool due to the rage to bash people and steal their shoes back in the mid 90's. I am sure the elder statesman fxh can fill us in on the various tribes and their violent antics in the 50's and 60's in Melbourne.

I think there is a lot more alcohol fuelled violence going on mainly due to extended opening hours. As for my son thankfully he is only bruised nothing broken.

 

[LonerMatt]

Real talk the idea behind longer t shirts is that they elongate the silhouette as they hide the hips and waist. Love them hitting just at the groin - perfect. If they have side slits then they look less boxy, but it's much of a muchness.

Stacking is also super great (I think someone mentioned shoes and jeans and a weird effect)

Foxu - lose the shirt and go for a T - tucked in shirt with a varsity is super odd.

 

[Geoffrey Firmin]

3/41 is this the onset of the long dark cloud? The sllence of the lambs perhaps?

 

[herringbonePete]

Perhaps it might be the increased physicality of the stunt work they're doing these days. Further still perhaps, that - as someone on another SF thread already pointed out - maybe the body close suit is the de rigeur trend these days. Wouldn't mind seeing Bond in something with more of a drape cut a la B&Tailor to be honest, if only out of curiosity.

I reckon Daniel Craig really shows that an athletic physique does wonders for clothes.

He really looks great.

I think the collars of some of the shirts I have seen in Spectre are a bit too pointy, (I didn't like the shirts in Skyfall) and I think the suits were too tight in Skyfall. There was discussion about suits being too tight for stunts and that there were different suits for different shots. Well, in some of the Spectre shots he has a split suit, down the centre back seam!

But the guy looks amazing and shows up catwalk models.

 

[Styleternity]

I reckon Daniel Craig really shows that an athletic physique does wonders for clothes.

He really looks great.

I think the collars of some of the shirts I have seen in Spectre are a bit too pointy, (I didn't like the shirts in Skyfall) and I think the suits were too tight in Skyfall. There was discussion about suits being too tight for stunts and that there were different suits for different shots. Well, in some of the Spectre shots he has a split suit, down the centre back seam!

But the guy looks amazing and shows up catwalk models.

There is no question that a healthy body is an ideal foundation for a well dressed man. No gripes with the assessment that Craig is - relatively speaking anyway - a well dressed celebrity (I particularly loved his garb in the Fincher remake of 'Girl with the Dragon Tattoo').

I guess it just comes down to my subjective tastes. I've always much preferred the silhouette of Brosnan's Bond but my central concern is that a tight buttoning point and overtapered trousers have become - to the average viewer at least - roadsigns of style.

 

[lukejackson]

Getting in them is a good start.

May have misunderstood your line Foxy...I didn't realise you were talking about your clothes...ha

 

[JohnsNotHere]



3/41 is this the onset of the long dark cloud? The sllence of the lambs perhaps?

Australia fantastic those first 10 overs. Starc is a special player. Good comeback though, hopefully we'll set a good total and make it a hell of a final. Must say, Brad Haddin is a complete cock though.

 

[Geoffrey Firmin]



Australia fantastic those first 10 overs. Starc is a special player. Good comeback though, hopefully we'll set a good total and make it a hell of a final. Must say, Brad Haddin is a complete cock though.

Don't get me wrong I can't stand cricket i just want Oz to bleat beat the Kiwis.

 

[JohnsNotHere]



Don't get me wrong I can't stand cricket i just want Oz to bleat beat the Kiwis.

Sheep jokes, how original of you

 

[Geoffrey Firmin]



Sheep jokes, how original of you

Thank you.

Baa 183 all out. Now I just hope Oz don't stuff it up.

Mind you none of this is important what really matters is the return of the Bledisloe Cup.

No it does matter, one nation will be in mourning Monday morning.

 

[JohnsNotHere]



Thank you.

Mind you none of this is important what really matters is the return of the Bledisloe Cup.

Finally some comedy