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hschrapel

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Don't forget Bell & Barnett and Peter Jackson, who have MTM operations, also.

Speaking of which, does anyone here know much about B&B's MTM service? I know it's highly customisable and seems to offer great value, but I'm not sure where the quality of the material and tailoring sits (presumably somewhere around MJB/Institchu).
Can comment on Peter Jackson's MTM service. Two suits made; in short, complete trash.
 

ShinyMew

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Why does it seem all clothing brands eventually turn to shi# (or nearabouts)?

Can you recommend a good Victorian MTM service for those wanting two s120s/130s suits under $1500? (I'm after durability and fit, though I'm planning to gain 10kg over the next year as I'm underweight). Institchu seems to astroturf liberally so it's hard to know if they're actually good value.

It's nothing like what it was when it started, but it's still around and better for a lot of men than some of the alternatives. Plus when they started there was no Suit Shop or Oscar Hunt or Suit Supply, so that has probably changed their approach maybe?

I have heard that Matt is planning a new line where he sources local wool that then gets woven in Italy and then made into suits (in China I assume), so he's at least staying a bit connected to his wool grower roots.
 

hschrapel

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Quality? Fit? Customer service? Please tell.
Quality, average. Fit, terrible. The block they use to fit for their MTM suits (and all their suits for that matter) is IMO terrible. The jackets are too short, the pants have a very low rise and their lack of features in MTM was astonishing. I got 1 grey birds eye single breasted and 1 navy double breasted. They had 2 options for their lapels on a single breasted, I went with their widest and it was utterly average. The double breasted was a whole other world of shocking. No lapel options, a VERY short jacket and questionable style "advice".
The fitting process was, for lack of a better word, ****, and when I requested options like patch pockets on both my suits they said it would look stupid. In addition, they took all of (from memory) 4 measurements in total for my body, and when the suit finally came in, the pants were too short. They measured the length from my hips down, despite me requesting a higher rise, and after the pants were made, they couldn't be salvedged as there was a pack of material. I requested a 5cm cuff and refused to budge on this. They could take the cuff out, and thus lengthen the pants, but alas, I just didn't want to deal with the hassle.
In full disclosure, I didn't "pay" for either of these suits. I previously had purchased 5 or so suits from them OTR and they had some serious issues in regards to fabric. Their customer service refused to deal with me, so I took them to VCAT where I met with both a judge and the CEO himself. From memory, his name was Paul Jackson, a lovely guy, and we settled the case with 2 MTM suits as compensation for the OTR issues. Afterwards, we went for a coffee and spoke the whole process through.

In saying that, you would think that they would go above and beyond to satisfy me, but maybe I'm the picky customer here. I think Peter Jackson are great for the average Joe in Australia but they lack creativity, design and most importantly, a good fit. If you like the short jacket, low rise pant look, go for it. But I've had more success elsewhere.

I've purchased 3 suits from InStitchu, and I enjoyed them. Their fitting process was great, options good, and staff knowledge, fantastic. They allowed me to lengthen the jacket, high rise the pants along with many other things Peter Jackson did not.

In saying that, the quality of Peter Jackson fabrics is better than InStitchu. Institchu offer VBC as a "premium fabric" and charge very much accordingly. I went with their house fabric which has been okay thus far.

In short, I would definitely steer clear of both, but it's up to you. I really like Suitsupplys standard block OTR and it fits me well. You might not be as fortunate, but suitsupplys custom made program (albeit very different from MTM) is a great happy medium.
 

Wowee Zowee

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Quality, average. Fit, terrible. The block they use to fit for their MTM suits (and all their suits for that matter) is IMO terrible. The jackets are too short, the pants have a very low rise and their lack of features in MTM was astonishing. I got 1 grey birds eye single breasted and 1 navy double breasted. They had 2 options for their lapels on a single breasted, I went with their widest and it was utterly average. The double breasted was a whole other world of shocking. No lapel options, a VERY short jacket and questionable style "advice".
The fitting process was, for lack of a better word, ****, and when I requested options like patch pockets on both my suits they said it would look stupid. In addition, they took all of (from memory) 4 measurements in total for my body, and when the suit finally came in, the pants were too short. They measured the length from my hips down, despite me requesting a higher rise, and after the pants were made, they couldn't be salvedged as there was a pack of material. I requested a 5cm cuff and refused to budge on this. They could take the cuff out, and thus lengthen the pants, but alas, I just didn't want to deal with the hassle.
In full disclosure, I didn't "pay" for either of these suits. I previously had purchased 5 or so suits from them OTR and they had some serious issues in regards to fabric. Their customer service refused to deal with me, so I took them to VCAT where I met with both a judge and the CEO himself. From memory, his name was Paul Jackson, a lovely guy, and we settled the case with 2 MTM suits as compensation for the OTR issues. Afterwards, we went for a coffee and spoke the whole process through.

In saying that, you would think that they would go above and beyond to satisfy me, but maybe I'm the picky customer here. I think Peter Jackson are great for the average Joe in Australia but they lack creativity, design and most importantly, a good fit. If you like the short jacket, low rise pant look, go for it. But I've had more success elsewhere.

I've purchased 3 suits from InStitchu, and I enjoyed them. Their fitting process was great, options good, and staff knowledge, fantastic. They allowed me to lengthen the jacket, high rise the pants along with many other things Peter Jackson did not.

In saying that, the quality of Peter Jackson fabrics is better than InStitchu. Institchu offer VBC as a "premium fabric" and charge very much accordingly. I went with their house fabric which has been okay thus far.

In short, I would definitely steer clear of both, but it's up to you. I really like Suitsupplys standard block OTR and it fits me well. You might not be as fortunate, but suitsupplys custom made program (albeit very different from MTM) is a great happy medium.
Thanks for the detailed info.

How is SuSu custom made different to MTM?
 

hschrapel

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Thanks for the detailed info.

How is SuSu custom made different to MTM?
You choose a fit that already exists, and adjust that block. So, I really like the Havana fit for the jacket (no structure, patch pockets), with washington pants (a narrowish fit with optional pleats). From that block, you can make fit adjustments, so narrower here, shorter there, longer here etc. You can't change the fundamental design of the fit, just make adjustments to it. So if you like an existing fit, or it fits you well with just minor alterations, it can be a great product.

What suitsupply are known well for doing, is getting you in a suit, saying it looks great but could look better with alterations here, there etc. The bill for those alterations might just be as much as the suit. So that's where custom made comes in, you get the best of both a good block, and any alterations included. Even after it arrives, alterations from that point onwards are free. You also get to choose the fabric (although I believe there are less choices than MTM).

For MTM, I think suitsupply do a great job. Of course, it's dependent on the person measuring you, but I've seen some great results. You get a whole bunch of options (literally huge) as well as a big variance of adjustability for fit and measurements.
 

Wowee Zowee

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You choose a fit that already exists, and adjust that block. So, I really like the Havana fit for the jacket (no structure, patch pockets), with washington pants (a narrowish fit with optional pleats). From that block, you can make fit adjustments, so narrower here, shorter there, longer here etc. You can't change the fundamental design of the fit, just make adjustments to it. So if you like an existing fit, or it fits you well with just minor alterations, it can be a great product.

What suitsupply are known well for doing, is getting you in a suit, saying it looks great but could look better with alterations here, there etc. The bill for those alterations might just be as much as the suit. So that's where custom made comes in, you get the best of both a good block, and any alterations included. Even after it arrives, alterations from that point onwards are free. You also get to choose the fabric (although I believe there are less choices than MTM).

For MTM, I think suitsupply do a great job. Of course, it's dependent on the person measuring you, but I've seen some great results. You get a whole bunch of options (literally huge) as well as a big variance of adjustability for fit and measurements.
So with the custom made option, would they be able to lengthen the jacket itself, or would it be limited to sleeve length as an example?
I also liked the Havana fit but recall that even in the long it was a little short on me, could have done with a lower buttoning point also.
 

hschrapel

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So with the custom made option, would they be able to lengthen the jacket itself, or would it be limited to sleeve length as an example?
I also liked the Havana fit but recall that even in the long it was a little short on me, could have done with a lower buttoning point also.
From memory, there are restrictions which I know include the buttoning point, but not sure 100% of all the other limitations
 

sebastian mcfox

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Can you recommend a good Victorian MTM
525C9FD5-1FBC-4C2A-BB37-8CBE887BDC99.jpeg
 

ShinyMew

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Thanks for the great write up. I'd absolutely go Suit Supply if I lived in Sydney. It's really unfortunate they still haven't opened in Melbourne as I'd imagine their fitting and adjustments process really requires you to be there if you're not 100% sure what and how the suit should fit like.

Is there any Melbourne-based company at or under $1k (for S120s/130s) that you would definitely opt for? I've heard good things about Oscar Hunt, but query how good their entry-level option ($999 I believe) is for value.

Quality, average. Fit, terrible. The block they use to fit for their MTM suits (and all their suits for that matter) is IMO terrible. The jackets are too short, the pants have a very low rise and their lack of features in MTM was astonishing. I got 1 grey birds eye single breasted and 1 navy double breasted. They had 2 options for their lapels on a single breasted, I went with their widest and it was utterly average. The double breasted was a whole other world of shocking. No lapel options, a VERY short jacket and questionable style "advice".
The fitting process was, for lack of a better word, ****, and when I requested options like patch pockets on both my suits they said it would look stupid. In addition, they took all of (from memory) 4 measurements in total for my body, and when the suit finally came in, the pants were too short. They measured the length from my hips down, despite me requesting a higher rise, and after the pants were made, they couldn't be salvedged as there was a pack of material. I requested a 5cm cuff and refused to budge on this. They could take the cuff out, and thus lengthen the pants, but alas, I just didn't want to deal with the hassle.
In full disclosure, I didn't "pay" for either of these suits. I previously had purchased 5 or so suits from them OTR and they had some serious issues in regards to fabric. Their customer service refused to deal with me, so I took them to VCAT where I met with both a judge and the CEO himself. From memory, his name was Paul Jackson, a lovely guy, and we settled the case with 2 MTM suits as compensation for the OTR issues. Afterwards, we went for a coffee and spoke the whole process through.

In saying that, you would think that they would go above and beyond to satisfy me, but maybe I'm the picky customer here. I think Peter Jackson are great for the average Joe in Australia but they lack creativity, design and most importantly, a good fit. If you like the short jacket, low rise pant look, go for it. But I've had more success elsewhere.

I've purchased 3 suits from InStitchu, and I enjoyed them. Their fitting process was great, options good, and staff knowledge, fantastic. They allowed me to lengthen the jacket, high rise the pants along with many other things Peter Jackson did not.

In saying that, the quality of Peter Jackson fabrics is better than InStitchu. Institchu offer VBC as a "premium fabric" and charge very much accordingly. I went with their house fabric which has been okay thus far.

In short, I would definitely steer clear of both, but it's up to you. I really like Suitsupplys standard block OTR and it fits me well. You might not be as fortunate, but suitsupplys custom made program (albeit very different from MTM) is a great happy medium.
 

The Ernesto

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Why does it seem all clothing brands eventually turn to shi# (or nearabouts)?

Can you recommend a good Victorian MTM service for those wanting two s120s/130s suits under $1500? (I'm after durability and fit, though I'm planning to gain 10kg over the next year as I'm underweight). Institchu seems to astroturf liberally so it's hard to know if they're actually good value.

I don't know why this happens. It never seems to go the other way.

MTM in Melbourne: Oscar Hunt, Trunk (think they start around$1500), Suit Shop.
 

sensuki

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There's a tailor named Jose Zarpan in the Nicholas Building on Swanston st that cuts the patterns/does the fittings himself. It might be worth popping in and asking him what he can do.
 

hschrapel

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Thanks for the great write up. I'd absolutely go Suit Supply if I lived in Sydney. It's really unfortunate they still haven't opened in Melbourne as I'd imagine their fitting and adjustments process really requires you to be there if you're not 100% sure what and how the suit should fit like.

Is there any Melbourne-based company at or under $1k (for S120s/130s) that you would definitely opt for? I've heard good things about Oscar Hunt, but query how good their entry-level option ($999 I believe) is for value.
I previously mentioned a company called Openweaves that have started up recently. Their product looks stunning and they're very high end MTM with a promotional price of $1200 I believe. Definitely check them out
 

boot_owl

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I previously mentioned a company called Openweaves that have started up recently. Their product looks stunning and they're very high end MTM with a promotional price of $1200 I believe. Definitely check them out

Any more info around? Can’t find much about the promotion
 

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