Alteration costs worth it on a Spier and Mackay coat?

[journeyman_al57]

I just bought my first sports coat from Spier and Mackay (and really, my first "real" piece of tailoring not counting a suit I got from Suit Supply 8 or so years ago). Navy Hopsack, full canvas, Contemporary fit.

I took it to a respected tailor in my area and had some sticker shock when he quoted $340 for alterations. That puts total cost of the jacket at over $900, which I know is "reasonable" in comparison to what one might get from higher end shops, but is hard to swallow.

Would I be better served returning the coat and looking elsewhere for pieces that are a closer fit off the rack? Or does the quality of a full canvas construction from S&M merit a $900 price? Just seems to really eat at the value prop.

(If it helps, the jacket was fitting well at the shoulders, but needed to be let out at the waist and, according to the tailor, the armholes. $250 for that, plus $90 to finish sleeves and button holes. It makes me wonder if I just ought to size up? I don't think I'm that bizarre a person to fit, though I suppose my shoulders are on the narrow side for my build. Apologies if I'm not supposed to list prices here..first post)

 

[Despos]

Yes, try a jacket one size larger.

When you let out the the armhole it's a sign you have the wrong size. Doing this is problematic as you can/should only let out the outlet on the side body. There is very little cloth to work with on this seam. Letting out makes the armhole bigger and the sleeve could be too small/tight when sewn to the jacket. Can't change that.

2nd reason; if you let out the jacket now and gain any weight, there is nothing left to let out. You will need a new jacket.
If you get the right size you have the option to let out in the future.

Try other brands and get the jacket that requires the least amount of alteration.

 

[BlueSteel]

Weird combo of things.

On one hand $90 for sleeves and working (I assume working - surgeon's cuffs?) would be fair pricing (but if not working buttonholes, that is overpriced).

But changing the armholes is odd - and must mean the jacket is not a good fit on you. Do you feel like the armholes need changing? If this is a Neo jacket, the armholes are meant to be high and smaller...which usually means a more tailored fit than the sloppy RTW stuff of the past...

I have a great, great tailor, and usually he can alter an S&M jacket for me - including surgeon's cuffs - for less than half the price of your quote.

 

[journeyman_al57]

Weird combo of things.

On one hand $90 for sleeves and working (I assume working - surgeon's cuffs?) would be fair pricing (but if not working buttonholes, that is overpriced).

But changing the armholes is odd - and must mean the jacket is not a good fit on you. Do you feel like the armholes need changing? If this is a Neo jacket, the armholes are meant to be high and smaller...which usually means a more tailored fit than the sloppy RTW stuff of the past...

I have a great, great tailor, and usually he can alter an S&M jacket for me - including surgeon's cuffs - for less than half the price of your quote.

Thanks, that's great feedback. The armhole piece seemed weird to me as well for the same reason.

Right now the lapels aren't sitting totally flat, and the vent is open a bit. As long as the slightly larger shoulders don't create issues, it sounds like sizing up is the right way to go.

This tailor is particularly expensive, but has a fantastic reputation in my city and does good work (according to this site as well as trusted friends). It's less a concern that his pricing is "fair" and more that it just seems like I might be better off dollar for dollar with a different maker or bigger size.

 

[journeyman_al57]

Yes, try a jacket one size larger.

When you let out the the armhole it's a sign you have the wrong size. Doing this is problematic as you can/should only let out the outlet on the side body. There is very little cloth to work with on this seam. Letting out makes the armhole bigger and the sleeve could be too small/tight when sewn to the jacket. Can't change that.

2nd reason; if you let out the jacket now and gain any weight, there is nothing left to let out. You will need a new jacket.
If you get the right size you have the option to let out in the future.

Try other brands and get the jacket that requires the least amount of alteration.

Great, great points. Thanks for the sage advice.

 

[Johnny80]

For that price...i think there is a lot of work for your tailor..
For higher garments can be the same price...but you can try other makers
From my personal experience on Isaia i had the less work from my tailor and the cost was around 70€, same around for Cesare A or Kiton...but for my Brunello C jacket the cost was around over 250€...so i stopped to buy from them since then because the jacket needs too much alterations to fit me perfectly and still the construction and quality is not on par with those above but i liked the pattern(of course all my alterations were free of charge but i saw the bills). So going for something higher, you have to ask if the alternations are included in the price

 

[Despos]

Thanks, that's great feedback. The armhole piece seemed weird to me as well for the same reason.

Right now the lapels aren't sitting totally flat, and the vent is open a bit. As long as the slightly larger shoulders don't create issues, it sounds like sizing up is the right way to go.

This tailor is particularly expensive, but has a fantastic reputation in my city and does good work (according to this site as well as trusted friends). It's less a concern that his pricing is "fair" and more that it just seems like I might be better off dollar for dollar with a different maker or bigger size.

Lapels not laying flat is another sign the chest is too small.
Doubt this would improve after letting out the jacket.

 

[comrade]

From my limited experience, a Harrington jacket, which I returned,
S&M sizes run very small.