Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2020 - News, Pictures, Clothing, Accessories, etc.

[Lionel Hutz]

I think this is appropriate for CXL. Unless the customer understands CXL, you get too many loose grain issues. Or customers unhappy with how the shoe ages over time. Even straight vegetable tannage gets the complaint when it is really getting great patina.

I think I understand CXL but I’d still be heartbroken by loose grain

 

[shahtirthak]

Hello Men:

Men, what do you make of this?

I purchased this pair of Hamilton two days ago as a sort of consolation prize to myself at the $170 sale price when my intended Patton were no longer available in my size. These boots just arrived--impressively fast shipping--and upon unboxing them, this un-stuck sticker fell out of the right boot...

View attachment 1441398

Certain panels are perfectly smooth on one boot but pebbled on the other, though I note no "inconsistent finish" issues that were evidently remedied. Was this sticker an "oops" that someone in the factory forgot to remove when they shipped out to me, whereby this boot was returned/rejected for quality issues, and then repaired and re-sold as a first quality...? Has anyone seen one of these stickers before? Weird.

These are a D width and they seem to fit ok with thinner socks, even though I wear an E width in the Strand and McAllister from the same 65 last. My idea with an all-weather Patton was to have a nice option to wear to work when it rains, and while I'm not sure how much I will wear the Hamilton, it's a good deal for $170.

View attachment 1441402

I have not seen the sticker before, but I have the same pair with the shaft on the outer side of the right boot is smooth leather while the rest of the boots are tumbled leather. The cap toes are also somewhat smooth but I guess it is not that prominent. I bought these when they were first introduced (not full price though, got in a sale at $275) but upon receipt and after paying for international shipping return was not an option. So I phoned AE customer service and they gave me a further discount. Needless to say, I love these boots!

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Hello Men:

Men, what do you make of this?

I purchased this pair of Hamilton two days ago as a sort of consolation prize to myself at the $170 sale price when my intended Patton were no longer available in my size. These boots just arrived--impressively fast shipping--and upon unboxing them, this un-stuck sticker fell out of the right boot...

View attachment 1441398

Certain panels are perfectly smooth on one boot but pebbled on the other, though I note no "inconsistent finish" issues that were evidently remedied. Was this sticker an "oops" that someone in the factory forgot to remove when they shipped out to me, whereby this boot was returned/rejected for quality issues, and then repaired and re-sold as a first quality...? Has anyone seen one of these stickers before? Weird.

These are a D width and they seem to fit ok with thinner socks, even though I wear an E width in the Strand and McAllister from the same 65 last. My idea with an all-weather Patton was to have a nice option to wear to work when it rains, and while I'm not sure how much I will wear the Hamilton, it's a good deal for $170.

View attachment 1441402

I’ve seen blended grains before on boots, such as the shaft being smooth (please don’t chuckle like I just did) and the lower being a pebble grain, but this one does not appear to follow a pattern intended for a particular aesthetic. Perhaps they’re wearing their masks a bit too tight in Port Washington.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

So Alden doesn't do MTOs to my knowledge, so does this mean they will do a batch of CXL SMUs ordered by their retailers? hope so

Well the sticker makes you go Hmmm, as do the inconsistent panels (but only if you look close), but the photo you posted says Great lookin Boot!

Alden will do MTO for their retail partners but not individually. You could try to convince a retailer as to your particular vision.

 

[EZB]

I’ve seen blended grains before on boots, such as the shaft being smooth (please don’t chuckle like I just did) and the lower being a pebble grain, but this one does not appear to follow a pattern intended for a particular aesthetic. Perhaps they’re wearing their masks a bit too tight in Port Washington.

 

[Vincent George]

Alden will do MTO for their retail partners but not individually. You could try to convince a retailer as to your particular vision.

I wanted a 401 (black Indy) in eee, and a local retailer placed the order for me. 16 weeks to the day and they were in my hand. No up charge. Not a fully-designed MTO, but definitely a special order; I suspect one could do the same as long as the last and model are in production.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I wanted a 401 (black Indy) in eee, and a local retailer placed the order for me. 16 weeks to the day and they were in my hand. No up charge. Not a fully-designed MTO, but definitely a special order; I suspect one could do the same as long as the last and model are in production.

perhaps it was because you just needed a certain width. Good for you!

 

[Vincent George]

perhaps it was because you just needed a certain width. Good for you!

It was. So I’m wondering if they would do the same for CXL in the future...

 

[ProfilaBinding]

Does anyone know why Alden would make this move in regards to the cxl? Was it not selling well? Was it too expensive?

 

[Shoenut]

Does anyone know why Alden would make this move in regards to the cxl? Was it not selling well? Was it too expensive?

The only conjecture that I would have is for the masses there are less expensive alternatives with less drawbacks than CXL. They do charge calf prices for a steer hide leather. Horween can charge more because.

 

[EZB]

The only conjecture that I would have is for the masses there are less expensive alternatives with less drawbacks than CXL. They do charge calf prices for a steer hide leather. Horween can charge more because.

Life's a ripoff, but it's a sellers market.

 

[Count de Monet]

I think I understand CXL but I’d still be heartbroken by loose grain

Agreed. There is nothing inherent about CXL or Dublin that makes it susceptible to loose grain. Apples and oranges. If a shoe or boot is made up with leather with loose grain, it is because the maker let that happen.

I remember the infamous Black Friday web gem boot - I’m drawing a blank but was basically a Long Branch on the 201 made up in Dublin. It was like AE gathered up all their loose grain rejected Dublin hides and cranked a special run to get rid of it and folks were saying things like “oh, that’s just how Dublin is.” Baloney. The GMTO Dublin Long Branches back under Paul’s watch had incredible leather.

That said, I agree with Shoenut and others how some folks might get caught unawares when they see how their CXL ages. The patina can be uneven, though gorgeous, especially with “natural” CXL. Some customers might have freaked and Alden decided it just wasn’t worth the trouble.

 

[EZB]

Agreed. There is nothing inherent about CXL or Dublin that makes it susceptible to loose grain. Apples and oranges. If a shoe or boot is made up with leather with loose grain, it is because the maker let that happen.

I remember the infamous Black Friday web gem boot - I’m drawing a blank but was basically a Long Branch on the 201 made up in Dublin. It was like AE gathered up all their loose grain rejected Dublin hides and cranked a special run to get rid of it and folks were saying things like “oh, that’s just how Dublin is.” Baloney. The GMTO Dublin Long Branches back under Paul’s watch had incredible leather.

That said, I agree with Shoenut and others how some folks might get caught unawares when they see how their CXL ages. The patina can be uneven, though gorgeous, especially with “natural” CXL. Some customers might have freaked and Alden decided it just wasn’t worth the trouble.

It’s very easy to hide loose grain in Dublin leather though!

 

[BKoepke]

One of my favorite pairs to wear during these hot Arizona summers

 

[Shoenut]

Agreed. There is nothing inherent about CXL or Dublin that makes it susceptible to loose grain. Apples and oranges. If a shoe or boot is made up with leather with loose grain, it is because the maker let that happen.

I remember the infamous Black Friday web gem boot - I’m drawing a blank but was basically a Long Branch on the 201 made up in Dublin. It was like AE gathered up all their loose grain rejected Dublin hides and cranked a special run to get rid of it and folks were saying things like “oh, that’s just how Dublin is.” Baloney. The GMTO Dublin Long Branches back under Paul’s watch had incredible leather.

That said, I agree with Shoenut and others how some folks might get caught unawares when they see how their CXL ages. The patina can be uneven, though gorgeous, especially with “natural” CXL. Some customers might have freaked and Alden decided it just wasn’t worth the trouble.

This is what Horween exhibits as acceptable break on their website discussing loose grain.

would you accept that on a calfskin shoe?