DoubleDown
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This post is about putting together a specific look to be worn exclusively for after hours festivities. The ensemble will mainly be put into play while imbibing spirits at downtown cocktail lounges, cavorting around rooftop/hotel bars, and mingling with pretty little things into the twilight hours of the night. Composing elements will include a Sport Coat, Jeans, Shirt, Pocket Square, & Boots. Contrast in textures will be a key element.
[If relevant: FWIW, I am 6’ tall 175lb, tan skin tone, black near-shoulder-length wavy hair. Station in life: Young, well-to-do white-collar worker living solo in downtown condo.]
Sports Coat
-Fabric: Velvet. If weight can be specified, perhaps 9-10oz.
-Construction: Relatively unstructured, soft shoulders; more Neapolitan styling; (+) waist suppression, relatively higher arm holes
-Lining: Full ermazine
-Jacket Length: should end to just cover my butt
-Color: Midnight Blue
-Lapel: Peaked Lapel vs Shawl Collar
-Leaning towards shawl collar
-Not sure if peaked lapels will work well with a jacket that has softer shoulders; hence shawl collar might be the better option
-Lapel Width: would appreciate guidance here
-unsure what width shawl collar to specify for a sport coat like this
-am guessing half way out to shoulder might be too wide(?)
-Lapel Facings
-Color: Black vs Midnight Blue (not sure?)
-Satin vs Grosgrain
-leaning towards Grosgrain (might provide nice textural contrast to a silk pocket square)
-Vents: 2 side vents vs Unvented
-Leaning towards 2 side vents; may look better for rare times when hands are in pockets
-Although Unvented might produce a more sleek silhouette
-Unsure which option would be better as I rarely put hands in pockets (especially when wearing Jeans)
-Jacket Button & Stance
-Leaning towards 1-button
-If 1-button on Shawl Collar, perhaps a lower button stance would look better
-Button located at belly button (or perhaps slightly below it?)
-Am guessing button stance is user-dependent on torso length
-Grosgrain vs Satin covered(?) [likely same covering material as lapel facing]
-Waist Pockets
-Straight (not slanted)
-Besom
-Sewn shut
-Trimmed with whatever facing is on lapel
-Breast Pocket: welt
-Jacket Cuffs: Turnback Cuffs
-Functional button holes (4)
-No Boutonniere
-Adding this custom element to a shawl collar may just break up the sleekness of the long drape of the shawl; likely better to leave it out
Jeans
-Raw Denim
-Deep Indigo vs Black (thoughts?)
Shirt
-High-collared Dress Shirt
-Worn without Tie; top buttons open
-Color: White
-Maybe very faint pink? Maybe very faint lavender?
-Nighttime Contrast between Midnight Blue Velvet SC and White shirt might work well
-Collar
-worn open
-no button down
-should be crisp and stand tall/high (not too tall for head size though)
-collar must stay within jacket lapels
-What style?
-Point? Medium Spread vs Not a lot of spread?
-Definitely not a cutaway
-How to specify to shirt-maker that you want a collar that will stand tall and stay within jacket lapels when worn unbuttoned?
-Cuff: Barrel vs Mitred vs other?
-not sure what may pair well with turnback cuff of Velvet SC
-Covered button placket
-No pockets
-Backside barely covers rear pockets (for times when worn untucked)
-Shorter body / square bottom / no tails
Pocket Square
-White Silk
-No TV fold
Boots
-Black Leather Dress Boot
-Toe Box: Sleek & Pointed or Rounded?
-Might a sleeker, more-pointed toe look out of place with raw denim jeans?
-Unsure on best boot option
-Own Carmina Burgundy Calf Chelsea Boots; but feel that some new Black boot may be the best choice for this ensemble
-If going with Black boot, would that mean jean choice ought to be Black raw denim (if assumption that a black boot doesn’t pair as well with indigo raw denim jeans is accurate?)
Comments appreciated.
[If relevant: FWIW, I am 6’ tall 175lb, tan skin tone, black near-shoulder-length wavy hair. Station in life: Young, well-to-do white-collar worker living solo in downtown condo.]
Sports Coat
-Fabric: Velvet. If weight can be specified, perhaps 9-10oz.
-Construction: Relatively unstructured, soft shoulders; more Neapolitan styling; (+) waist suppression, relatively higher arm holes
-Lining: Full ermazine
-Jacket Length: should end to just cover my butt
-Color: Midnight Blue
-Lapel: Peaked Lapel vs Shawl Collar
-Leaning towards shawl collar
-Not sure if peaked lapels will work well with a jacket that has softer shoulders; hence shawl collar might be the better option
-Lapel Width: would appreciate guidance here
-unsure what width shawl collar to specify for a sport coat like this
-am guessing half way out to shoulder might be too wide(?)
-Lapel Facings
-Color: Black vs Midnight Blue (not sure?)
-Satin vs Grosgrain
-leaning towards Grosgrain (might provide nice textural contrast to a silk pocket square)
-Vents: 2 side vents vs Unvented
-Leaning towards 2 side vents; may look better for rare times when hands are in pockets
-Although Unvented might produce a more sleek silhouette
-Unsure which option would be better as I rarely put hands in pockets (especially when wearing Jeans)
-Jacket Button & Stance
-Leaning towards 1-button
-If 1-button on Shawl Collar, perhaps a lower button stance would look better
-Button located at belly button (or perhaps slightly below it?)
-Am guessing button stance is user-dependent on torso length
-Grosgrain vs Satin covered(?) [likely same covering material as lapel facing]
-Waist Pockets
-Straight (not slanted)
-Besom
-Sewn shut
-Trimmed with whatever facing is on lapel
-Breast Pocket: welt
-Jacket Cuffs: Turnback Cuffs
-Functional button holes (4)
-No Boutonniere
-Adding this custom element to a shawl collar may just break up the sleekness of the long drape of the shawl; likely better to leave it out
Jeans
-Raw Denim
-Deep Indigo vs Black (thoughts?)
Shirt
-High-collared Dress Shirt
-Worn without Tie; top buttons open
-Color: White
-Maybe very faint pink? Maybe very faint lavender?
-Nighttime Contrast between Midnight Blue Velvet SC and White shirt might work well
-Collar
-worn open
-no button down
-should be crisp and stand tall/high (not too tall for head size though)
-collar must stay within jacket lapels
-What style?
-Point? Medium Spread vs Not a lot of spread?
-Definitely not a cutaway
-How to specify to shirt-maker that you want a collar that will stand tall and stay within jacket lapels when worn unbuttoned?
-Cuff: Barrel vs Mitred vs other?
-not sure what may pair well with turnback cuff of Velvet SC
-Covered button placket
-No pockets
-Backside barely covers rear pockets (for times when worn untucked)
-Shorter body / square bottom / no tails
Pocket Square
-White Silk
-No TV fold
Boots
-Black Leather Dress Boot
-Toe Box: Sleek & Pointed or Rounded?
-Might a sleeker, more-pointed toe look out of place with raw denim jeans?
-Unsure on best boot option
-Own Carmina Burgundy Calf Chelsea Boots; but feel that some new Black boot may be the best choice for this ensemble
-If going with Black boot, would that mean jean choice ought to be Black raw denim (if assumption that a black boot doesn’t pair as well with indigo raw denim jeans is accurate?)
Comments appreciated.