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a little help - ordering a suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by globetrotter, Jan 24, 2014.

  1. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    gentlemen - I am ordering a new suit for the first time in about 12 years.

    I remember that there was a very good thread, a very long time ago, that talked about the various details to remember when commissioning a suit. can somebody remind me where that is?


    thanks
     
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bump.

    And if the thread is not to be found, details? Purpose of suit, rtw or bespoke, price range, etc
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2014
  3. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    I am looking to commission a suit from Lee Baron in HK, a business suit, DB in dark gray, probably aiming at 10-12 ounces. I need a number of suits, so I will be using this as a "pilot". having talked to a number of people on the forum, this seemed to be an excellent balance of quality and price point. I commissioned about a dozen suits, from 20-12 years ago, and they simply don't fit me anymore. so I have forgotten some of the stuff I used to know when commissioning suits, but I honestly didn't know, at the time, what I should know.

    so, who can help me out?


    thanks
     
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Master globetrotter.

    I will refrain from Lee Baron now.
     
  5. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    why?
     
  6. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    You are in luck, I have managed to find it. It dates from 2006!

    Check list - suit.

    Coat

    Where I have put a * these you should really have, the others are choices. There are obviously many other styles and features you can have but of the classic everyday business style:

    High arm holes*
    Single/Double breast?
    If single, 3, 2 or 1 button?
    Roll of lapel - just where?
    Peak lapel or notch (SB)
    If double breasted, button one (4 x 1) or two (6 x2)?
    4 working cuff buttons*
    Colour of lining - contrast or match. Satin or polyester?? satin lining, an ermazine (satin viscose) or a twill: Shot satin?
    Straight or 'slant/hacking’ side pockets with or without flaps?
    Outside ticket pocket?
    Ticket pocket inside either or both side pockets?
    Lapel button hole and flower stem 'cord' behind*
    Ensure that the right amount of shirt cuff shows*
    Side/centre or no vents
    Inside pockets - how many and where placed. I currently have 8?
    • Do you want any to fasten – zip or button/flap
    • What size? Specify
    • Do you use two breast pockets?
    It is certainly now a good idea to have a cell phone pocket as well as a ticket pocket: Think where you want it - not where others would.
    Additional inside ticket pockets
    Zips on pockets or some to be button fastening?
    Pen pocket (s)?
    Your name embroidered inside?

    Trousers

    Braces?
    Belt or side adjusters/extension band?
    If braces how high a rise (can vary by choice) Fishtail back or not? (Preferred with very high rise)
    French bearer
    Zip fly or button?
    Turn ups?
    Pleats? One or two forward or reverse?
    Width of bottoms
    Half lined legs
    Lined?
    On seam or slant side pockets?
    Coin pocket inside either or both side pockets
    Fob pocket? - what style i.e. in waistband or outside and below with flap or button/hole? Plain without button?
    Back pockets? - 1, 2 or none? If yes how do you prefer them to fasten, button through (preferable) or flap/button or tab/button. Concealed button is another option. Double jetted with button/hole look best I think.

    Waistcoat/vest

    -do you want a vest at all
    -single-breasted or double-breasted
    -if single, five or six buttons?
    -lapels or no lapels?
    -hole for watch chain?
    Number of pockets?


    There are many views here about all these. Some people tend to have a fairly firm few which tends to be from days gone by. These are things - such as braces are a must: they have advantages on 'hang' of the trouser but not everyone wants to have braces visible when they remove their jacket - that is for you although they are not terribly practical today and I would recommend the practical in this instance.

    I would suggest that you take this list and a current suit and just draw up a list based on this lot that you want. Some of the houses can be a little prescriptive and try to persuade first timers into the cutters thoughts, not what he wants.

    You decide and then stick to your guns. It is your suit and you should get the pleasure out of it


    2006
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2014
    3 people like this.
  7. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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  8. steveabdn

    steveabdn Senior member

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    I'm ordering a suit in the coming weeks and this thread has given me some invaluable food for thought
     
  9. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Do let us know what you select - publicly or pm if you prefer.
     
  10. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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  11. RyanM

    RyanM Senior member

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    As a supplement, go to the blog "parisian gentleman" and look for the post on the 7 things to look for in a suit.
     
    1 person likes this.

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