1st MTM Suit critique/input...

[aragon765]

Hi all,

I have been enjoying reading and learning from these forums for a couple of months now. The time has come to post a couple of pictures and see if I can get some recommendations on fit/style moving forward.

I am 28, tall and slim (6'4" and +/- 165), a 2nd year law student needing to get a couple more suits before the summer and my first law firm work experience (quite conservative firm, from what I can gather). I have purchased two suits already: one MTM and one OTR. The OTR needed quite a few alterations to fit right but I am generally happy with the result. The MTM is pictured below. Before seeing SF, I was happy with the fit, but now I think the pants are possibly a touch long, the body a touch big, and sleeves a bit long as well. However, given my proportions, I have spent far too many years in clothing that was incredibly huge in the body, and NEVER long enough in the arms, so I think I have have over-compensated with this suit. This suit did get me the job, so it can't be completely wrong

I want to go back to get a couple of more suits made, but I want to get some comments on the fit of what I have... so fire away!

Thanks!

Front:

Rear:

Side:

I don't want to post the brand of everything, because I think it taints the comments... I will post it after I see what people have to say based purely on the pictures....

 

[teddieriley]

Overall, nice suit and good 1st effort. Some specific comments:
(1) Your shirt sleeves are too long and so is the jacket sleeves.
(2) As you mentioned, you might want to hem the pants a bit.
(3) There is excess material in the upper part of the jacket under the collar as it appears there is bunching of material in the 3rd pic.
(4) The body of the jacket appears big. For being only 165lbs., the jacket makes you look heavy set.

I recognize you. I'll be giving you impossible research assignments at our firm. Congrats.

 

[Holdfast]

Not bad for a first MTM effort.

I agree with some of your comments -

It could do with a bit more waist suppression, both your shirt and suit sleeves could be a quarter-inch shorter, the jacket body length could possibly be a half-inch shorter and there's something a little weird happening at the back of shoulders and the back of the upper leg. There's also some horizontal creasing under the collar at the back which needs tidying up.

Some of those comments may be personal taste differences, and some of the others may be related to posture on taking the photos, but there's probably a kernel of truth to them all.

But overall, not a bad first try.

 

[a tailor]

cant see too much although:
there is that hump on the back below the collar. that needs to have the back shortened at the top.
also the bottom of the coat looks loose across the butt.

 

[TheFoo]

I agree with the previous comments: (1) shirt and jacket sleeves are much too long, (2) pants are too long, (3) roll behind the collar should be removed, and (4) some additional waist supression would help.

Additionally:

(1) I would consider getting future 3-button suits cut so that only the middle button is meant to be buttoned. Doing so will create much stronger vertical emphasis.

(2) The sleeves appear to bunch funny mid-arm. They should drape downward without creasing or bunching when your arms hang naturally by your sides. Rotating the sleeves a bit might help.

(3) Overall, the suit appears rather boxy to me. I would consider using much more natural shoulders.

(4) Looking at the side profile, the back could use a tad bit more shaping.

 

[whacked]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

I recognize you. I'll be giving you impossible research assignments at our firm. Congrats.

Oops

 

[alliswell]

The jacket may also be a little long, by the palm-cupping test.

 

[Monkey]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

I recognize you. I'll be giving you impossible research assignments at our firm. Congrats.
Funniest thing I've read today.

But aren't impossible research assignments pretty much a given for any student? They were for me when I articled.

 

[aragon765]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

Overall, nice suit and good 1st effort. Some specific comments:
(1) Your shirt sleeves are too long and so is the jacket sleeves.
(2) As you mentioned, you might want to hem the pants a bit.
(3) There is excess material in the upper part of the jacket under the collar as it appears there is bunching of material in the 3rd pic.
(4) The body of the jacket appears big. For being only 165lbs., the jacket makes you look heavy set.

I recognize you. I'll be giving you impossible research assignments at our firm. Congrats.

Thanks for the comments. I doubt you recognize me, but if you can name the firm, I will commit to getting your research assignments done. I love a challenge.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I agree with the previous comments: (1) shirt and jacket sleeves are much too long, (2) pants are too long, (3) roll behind the collar should be removed, and (4) some additional waist supression would help.

Additionally:

(1) I would consider getting future 3-button suits cut so that only the middle button is meant to be buttoned. Doing so will create much stronger vertical emphasis.

(2) The sleeves appear to bunch funny mid-arm. They should drape downward without creasing or bunching when your arms hang naturally by your sides. Rotating the sleeves a bit might help.

(3) Overall, the suit appears rather boxy to me. I would consider using much more natural shoulders.

(4) Looking at the side profile, the back could use a tad bit more shaping.


(1) Do I need vertical emphasis given my build? I would think given my proportions, I would want to emphasize horizontally, not vertically...

(2) I think this was a product of my photo-taking skills, not the coat. I don't believe the sleeves usually fall twisted like that.

(3) good point. I will take that under consideration

(4) how so? how is the back of suit shaped? any pictorial examples?

For the rest: thanks for the comments. You need to equip yourself with thick skin when posting pictures, but I hope the end result is a better fitting suit, and some knowledge. So far so good.

 

[ibleedwhite]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

I recognize you. I'll be giving you impossible research assignments at our firm. Congrats.

 

[HomerJ]

Originally Posted by aragon765

(1) Do I need vertical emphasis given my build? I would think given my proportions, I would want to emphasize horizontally, not vertically...

I'm wondering the same thing. I'd actually go with a 2 button to break up the expanse, deemphasizing your 6'4" skinniness.

 

[penguin vic]

While the body seems a bit big, the skirt seems quite snug on your hips? Could just be the photos.

If you haven't worn this suit yet I'd wait a few wearings before deciding whether to take the trousers up.

 

[SoCal2NYC]

Get some MTM shirts too.

 

[aragon765]

Originally Posted by penguin vic

While the body seems a bit big, the skirt seems quite snug on your hips? Could just be the photos.

If you haven't worn this suit yet I'd wait a few wearings before deciding whether to take the trousers up.

why is that? Do you like the length as is?

I have always had issues with short sleeves and short pant legs (I always thought "floods" were bad...), and I think I possibly did too good of a job of impressing that on my tailor and that is why the 'extra' length is there in the arms and legs. Although it does look a bit long, the sleeve length prevents me from constantly pulling on the sleeves, which I used to do on clothes that did not have enough length. Although I agree the length on most of the suits posted on SF look more 'proper', I want to have a little extra length for the reasons above...

Also, there is only room for a fist between the jacket and my chest, and I thought that was the correct measurement for body volume? However, looking at the pictures it does look boxy, as pointed out above. Why is this?

And finally... given that I am going to be working at a rather conservative law firm, how 'style-forward' should I be looking to go with the cut/color of a suit? I was under the impression that young associates should dress the part (i.e. very traditional, not very flashy shoes or ties) and save the bling for further down the road. I would think it would be a bad thing to walk into a meeting with a client, and a 20-year senior partner, and be wearing a more flashy suit and stylish shoes than the SP.... I don't want to look like a used-car salesman, but I don't think I can walk into a law office as a first year associate looking like I own the place.

comments?

 

[aragon765]

Originally Posted by SoCal2NYC

Get some MTM shirts too.

Would a better fitting shirt (the shirt I am wearing in the pic is very bulky (loose fitting) in the body and sleeves) help with the fit of the suit?

My tailor has promised to take in the shirts that I purchased, as it seems it was an oversight not to take them in when they were initially purchased.