1st MTM Suit critique/input...

[lee_44106]

Your suit jacket and shirt jacket sleeves are both too long. You stated that you used to have to tug at the shirt sleeve as it was too short. I suspect your problem back then was not that the shirt sleeve was too short, but rather that the suit jacket sleeve was too long.

Being able to fit one fist around jacket and chest is also the correct space, as far as I know. I think a jacket with a less built-up shoulders ( a soft shoulder, or minimally padded) would work better for your physique. Part of the reason for the boxiness may be the prominent shoulder. Also just a touch more waist suppression would be nice.

I like the length of your jacket. You are 6'4", so that's very tall, and you have long legs. Short people avoid long jackets to maximize the leg length; you don't have that problem.

Stick with solid colors (navy, charcoal). You can even venture into suble pinstripes.

Overall very good effort for a first try at MTM.

 

[teddieriley]

Do a search for proper shirt sleeve length. When you determine that, your jacket sleeve should be anywhere from 1/4" - 1" inch shorter to show that amount of cuff, depending on personal preference. Seeing as you'll be in a conservative environment, 1/4" - to 1/2" should be plenty.

I agree with the shoulders. I don't necessarily think that is something you should change, but perhaps you can talk with your tailor and ask how much padding is in there and whether it is an option to remove some of it to give it a softer shoulder. Then you can take in the waist a little. But as someone has pointed out, the skirt of the jacket appears to hug your hips, but I can't tell if it's because you are "hippy," or that's the way the jacket is cut. In either event, watch the balance when taking in the waist so you don't end up with a too pronounced hourglass effect.

 

[Lel]

Hmm, just something as an initial glance, you describe yourself as tall and slim but you seem to be giving off a rather pear-ish outline. I'm going too technical (mainly because I don't know) but the first impression of many people will seem for you to be a little heavy set and I doubt you are.

 

[stickonatree]

in addition to all the other comments, your jacket hem could also be taken up a tad. taking up more than 1" will mess up the balance of the jacket, but it needs to be shortened.

 

[penguin vic]

Originally Posted by aragon765

why is that? Do you like the length as is?

It looks a little long in the front-on pics but looks ok in the side-on pic. If it's only a touch long unworn, you could find that it 'shortens' slightly due to the creases that naturally occur with wearing (eg. in the upper thigh area). Clearly it's not going bring them up by an inch though.

 

[aragon765]

X-posted with waywn...

After consultations with my tailor and this thread, this is the suit we came up for as a second effort at MTM:

comments?