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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by maomao1980, Jan 31, 2010.

  1. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    This is true, you can easily find the signature Florentine single diagonal dart on Neapolitan jackets. Also when it comes to bespoke, the lines are even more blurred.

    Yea, you can ask for anything you want in HK bespoke [​IMG]
     
  2. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yea, you can ask for anything you want in HK bespoke [​IMG]

    key word being "ask"...
     
  3. BlackMesa

    BlackMesa Active Member

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    Thanks maomao for the nice pictorial of your experience. Your coat is looking quite nice, please update once you have the finished item.


    3) A single dart on the side. Notice the wonderfully uninterrupted checked pattern that Waomao shared with us


    I would say that this would be the most identifiable Florentine touch. While from the front the pattern will be nice and clean, but from the side the disruption is more severe since the dart is on a angle.
    The long side dart is also seen on many overcoats regardless of regionality.

    Most exerent..

    Nice change from the SF dream group think of Rubinacci..

    but maybe becoming an HK thing...
     
  4. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    BIG IMAGE WARNING!!!

    [​IMG]
     
  5. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Seminara looks interesting, supposedly cheaper than Liverano as well.
     
  6. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tends to be trim and short. The defining characteristic is that the dart is diagonal going from under the arm to the to the pocket. See here (credit: uppercase)

    [​IMG]

    .


    i just forgotten how lovely that cloth is! thanks!![​IMG]
     
  7. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    Congratulations, Maomao! L&L have put together a pretty decent cut for you. Also, you seem to enjoy working with them, which is maybe the most important factor.

    All in all, the various regional styles are not as different as we would make them seem.

    This is true, you can easily find the signature Florentine single diagonal dart on Neapolitan jackets. Also when it comes to bespoke, the lines are even more blurred.
    True that. In my experience, regional differences are quite a bit overpronounced in the interwebz. IRL, differences between different houses in one region can be just as striking, granted one is willing to leave touristic paths.
     
  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Is that an earring in your left ear?

    Is that i-Gent (or i-Thugs as the Asian contigent prefer) approved? [​IMG]


    he also wears a signet ring.

    paging goomba
     
  9. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

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    BIG IMAGE WARNING!!!

    [​IMG]


    someone summarise and translate please
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    The pictorial that I want to see is how different streets in Naples have their own street style, and different cuts AM or PM depending on the position of the sun.

    This I know: the most common regional feature of Neopolitan jackets is the single long back dart, going down the center of the back from the middle of the collar to the hem. Look for it.


    - B
     
  11. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    This I know: the most common regional feature of Neopolitan jackets is the single long back dart, going down the center of the back from the middle of the collar to the hem. Look for it.


    - B



    Woo-hoo! I have Neopolitan style jackets and I didn't even know it! :^)
     
  12. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The pictorial that I want to see is how different streets in Naples have their own street style, and different cuts AM or PM depending on the position of the sun.

    This I know: the most common regional feature of Neopolitan jackets is the single long back dart, going down the center of the back from the middle of the collar to the hem. Look for it.


    - B


    I think it is commonly referred to by the Neapolitan tailors as the crack-o-napoletano
     
  13. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    I think it is commonly referred to by the Neapolitan tailors as the crack-o-napoletano
    No, this actually refers to the dart running along the entire sleeve. What you meant was the so-called nottonirli-a-spalla.
     
  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    No, this actually refers to the dart running along the entire sleeve. What you meant was the so-called nottonirli-a-spalla.

    Another feature common to the Neapolitan cut is the taglio di Vesuvio, which is an upside down, volcano-shaped opening in the front of the jacket, with lapels on either side.

    Artful Italians often wear a necktie around their neck, and dangle the body of the tie in the center of the taglio di Vesuvio, in full public view.

    Another thing that Neapolitan jackets often have are pockets, some inside, some outside.


    - B
     
  15. UpperWestie

    UpperWestie Senior member

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    The pictorial that I want to see is how different streets in Naples have their own street style, and different cuts AM or PM depending on the position of the sun.

    This I know: the most common regional feature of Neopolitan jackets is the single long back dart, going down the center of the back from the middle of the collar to the hem. Look for it.


    - B


    You clearly didn't read the article.
     

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