Level of ties/tie makers?

Since ties have came up as a theme I am just wondering if someone could give a breakdown of ties and tie makers. I know that 100% silk is well regarded, but what about cashmere, wool's, and wool blends which Zegna makes a bunch of. And also other materials, and why they make for a good tie. Some companies I am interested in seeing tiered both in price and quality are Hermes, Charvet, Chloe, Channel, Zegna, Bijan, Gigli, Prada, Kiton, Fendi, Kenzo, Lorenzini, Brioni, Lanvin, Barbera, Paul Smith, Loro Piana, and whatever others that I should know of. Thanks.

Since ties have came up as a theme I am just wondering if someone could give a breakdown of ties and tie makers. I know that 100% silk is well regarded, but what about cashmere, wool's, and wool blends which Zegna makes a bunch of. And also other materials, and why they make for a good tie. Some companies I am interested in seeing tiered both in price and quality are Hermes, Charvet, Chloe, Channel, Zegna, Bijan, Gigli, Prada, Kiton, Fendi, Kenzo, Lorenzini, Brioni, Lanvin, Barbera, Paul Smith, Loro Piana, and whatever others that I should know of. Thanks.

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Um, that's kind of a tall request you're asking. Almost every brand out there makes ties. I think the only brand in your list that doesn't make ties is Lorenzini. Anyway, in terms of positioning and quality, I would go by the same reputation that the rest of the line is regarded as. That is the really nice brands like Kiton, Charvet, Hermes make really nice ties, etc.

If you want specifics by price, I would divide the brands you mention into two categories--those between $100-150 and those between $80-110.

In terms of materials, usually silk is the way to go. If you want a "winter" look, woolen/cashmere ties are nice. I wouldn't wear them to a board meeting though; it's probably a little too casual looking. Then again, maybe someone could pull it off, if the suit is nice enough.

A couple of manufacturers to look at who just make ties and are pretty famous for them are E. Marinella and Nicky. Both are Italian brands.

I swear I've seen a tie by Lorenzini recently, but I may be wrong. I am not that interested in an entire breakdown of every brand listed, just more like an approximation being that a lot of the companies are on the same level as each other. The reason why I want to know this is that there is a local store that has many ties for sale cheap, but from a lot of companies I never heard of. It seems that they got most of them from Saks for they also have a bunch of Saks ties. Thing is almost all of them are priced at the same flat rate whether they were originally an $80 tie, or a $135 one. The exception is they do have a few Kitons, and others, which are more. This is where I found my Prada tie for like $15 or so. I've only browsed through some of what they have but I plan on soon going through their entire stock in a "tie shopping day". I just wanted some more detailed info before I do this so I know what is what. They did have some by Nicky, though I thought it was Micky from the cursive writing, and another company I never heard of Forum. I am going down tomorrow so I'll post up a more detailed list of what they do have for they didn't have all I posted above, and most of the unknowns I can't remember anymore.

My favourite ties are the Kitons. They are seven-fold construction and use wonderful silk. You do have to be careful about storing them, though. Robert Talbott's top ties are reputedly in the same class, although I've never so much as seen one.

The "next step down" would be the great-silk, standard-construction ties, such as Hermes and Brioni.

Down from there, you have the vast majority of "designer" ties. These include Zegna, Lanvin, Ferragamo, Turnbull & Asser, Gucci, and the Kiton USA head's vanity line (Massimo Bizzochi or something like that.)

Prada I'd be hesitant about. But I've been pleasantly surprised by a Gucci tie, so perhaps it won't suck as bad as I'd expect.

As for materials, it depends. My father is a devout Muslim so he doesn't wear silk ties. Lately he's been wearing mostly Zegna 15milmil15 ties. My other non-silk ties are a linen Armani that's OK, a couple cashmere Zegna's that are monochrome heathers that are better, and a light-grey on dark-grey Ferragamo in wool that's quite nice.

I've never seen a Loro Piana or Lorenzini tie. I'm quite familiar with the Piana line, but not Lorenzini's.

Peace,

JG

Thanks Joe, this is exactly the type of response I was hoping for. I was thinking of picking up one of the Kitons they had, so what is the best way to store it and what issues can arise if not stored properly? By the way they did have a Talbott's Best in Class I saw, but never realized that they were on par with Kiton. Still I really don't understand what the "seven fold" is yet? As to the Prada I got it for $15 or $20 so it really doesn't matter about how well made it is, for me it is a nice looking brown tie that's it. What I am also wondering is if a lot of these "designer" ties are actually made by other's like Zegna, or another house? I didn't know if Piana made ties, but I thought he did. A wrong guess it seems. Also it seems I going to have to search for this damned Lorenzini tie so that I can have some peace of mind. Thanks again.

Still I really don't understand what the "seven fold" is yet?

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Okay, when you look at the back of the tie near the tip of it you will see that it is lined with fabric (many brands have logos and stuff in their lining). Seven fold ties do not have this, they are instead made entirely out of one piece of silk folded on top of itself seven times making the tie thick without the aid of the lining. Seven folds feel fatter than normal ties but they actually can wrinkle or crease if not hung up on a tie rack or tied improperly. Also I don't think talbots best-of line is seven fold, only the ones specifically marked seven fold. Either way it is easy to tell- just look at the back. Here is a link with more info: http://www.cigaraficionado.com/Cigar....96.html

Since I wear ties so infrequently, I now usually only buy woven ties. They are much more vibrant than regular printed silk ties. Not to knock on regular silk ties--I just buy ties so rarely now that I stick to woven ones for the most part. My favorite brand of woven ties is Charvet. In fact, I think Charvet only makes woven ties. Oxxford has some good ones too. A few years ago, woven ties used to be somewhat scarce and exclusive, but now a lot of designers make them.

Many divide ties by whether or not they're woven or printed silk. Supposedly woven is classier, and generally better constructed. Woven is also more popular in Europe. Haven't been there yet , so perhaps someone else can comment on that (Joe G?). The most expensive tie I've ever seen is a Brioni patchwork silk, at about $295 retail. Pieces of baroque prints and woven/solid textures are sewn together to look like a rather expensive, elegant patchwork quilt. Beautiful ties, but a bit much for me. Next Tier 150-200: Robert Talbott 7 fold- sold at most higher end Nordstoms and some specialty stores. Nice, but pricey. Often printed silk. Marinella- 5 fold- available only 2 places in US that I know of, both specialty stores- supposedly one of the best kept/worst kept secrets in the world. Make made-to-measure as well, if you can go to Italy to order them. Kiton- Neiman Marcus, one Saks, many specialty stores- also usually 7 fold, often printed silk, although many woven as well. I love them too and have some conservative patterns in really bold colors. 100-150 Isaia- I really like the "old" brightly colored Enrico 7 fold stripes. Have purchased a few at great discounts. Haven't seen any in a while; rumor has it Isaias have split the label again, and Enrico now is doing Enrico Napoli label. Anyone else know more about Isaia?- it's one of my favorite brands. Gianluca Isaias are usually woven, conservative, and can be found at some Saks, some Neimans, and some spec stores. Nicky's- Great ties, also often alternate takes on stripes. Perhaps available in 10 specialty stores nationwide. Charvet- also beautiful, usually conservative. Some of the brighter colored stripes, and iridescent textures are very appealing to the eye. Found at Sak's, Neiman's, and a very limited number specstores, if at all. Make to measure, if you go to Paris. Brioni- Famous for a long time for the colorful baroque prints which I think Santo Stefano, which also makes its own similar ties, made for them. Lately have been featuring more conservative designs, some nice wovens. Saks, Neimans, limited spec stores. Borrelli- They do make some 7 folds which are really nice, and retail above 150, but I've only seen them at their boutiques. Â Silks in this range are also nice- usually like Kiton- conservative patterns in unusual colors for a little flair. But I've seen some nice woven 5 folds as well. Zegna- woven or printed. Can be found almost anywhere. I heard somewhere that many of the prints are made by Villa Bolgheri, not sure this is true. BTW the famous Monica Lewinsky-Bill Clinton gift tie was a Zegna before everyone started wearing them. Hermes/Ferragamo- Usually silk prints. Hermes unlined. Ferragamo a bit thinner than normal. Can be found at company boutiques, Hermes online, and many Saks and Neimans. Some spec stores. Both have cult following among the more conservative set, Hermes particularly in Washington; Colin Powell is reportedly a big devotee. Turnbull and Asser- Recently have featured more prints, where they were once almost exclusively woven. Can be made to measure both in NYC boutique and at trunk shows at Neiman's. Exclusive to Neiman Marcus except for flagship in NYC. Also narrower than usual, but you can have them made wider to measure. Massimo Bizzocchi- Joe G covered well. Available Sak's, Neiman's, spec stores. Talbott- Estate is mid level. Harder to find. I've only seen them at certain Nordstroms and a very limited number of spec stores. Under $100- Talbott Best of Class ($98.50 last time I looked)- available everywhere- most popular and available along with Zegna. Nordstrom, some Neiman's, lotsa spec stores. Â Talbott also has an outlet store in Carmel if you're ever there. XMI Platinum- hand made of British woven silk in Chippewa Falls, WI (therefore I'm not entirely objective). I really like these and the company that makes them, Think they're a great value for the money. Most Nordstroms carry them, and a limited number of spec stores. $95 Thomas Pink- Available online, by catalog, and in boutiques. Usuallly printed and narrower. $85 or so last I checked. Tino Cosma- usually woven. Often a great value for the money. Featured in many spec stores, and a boutique in Vegas. $75-85. Mark Christopher Custom- $65, usually woven, 3" longer than usual for you full Windsor fans. Not objective here either, as I was given one when I met Mark in NY, and it's a truly beautiful tie... I also haven't seen any Lorenzini... IMO any of the above ties are a great find at the discounts you're talking about, but make sure you like the tie. As PStoller and I can attest to, the most expensive tie of all, even if you got it dirt cheap, is the one that hangs in the closet and never comes out. Have I bored you all enough? Believe it or not, I could go on....Armani, Versace, Ferre, Boss, Stefano Ricci.....

I swear I've seen a tie by Lorenzini recently, but I may be wrong. I am not that interested in an entire breakdown of every brand listed, just more like an approximation being that a lot of the companies are on the same level as each other. The reason why I want to know this is that there is a local store that has many ties for sale cheap, but from a lot of companies I never heard of. It seems that they got most of them from Saks for they also have a bunch of Saks ties. Thing is almost all of them are priced at the same flat rate whether they were originally an $80 tie, or a $135 one. The exception is they do have a few Kitons, and others, which are more. This is where I found my Prada tie for like $15 or so. I've only browsed through some of what they have but I plan on soon going through their entire stock in a "tie shopping day". I just wanted some more detailed info before I do this so I know what is what. They did have some by Nicky, though I thought it was Micky from the cursive writing, and another company I never heard of Forum. I am going down tomorrow so I'll post up a more detailed list of what they do have for they didn't have all I posted above, and most of the unknowns I can't remember anymore.

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I'm sorry. I misunderstood you. I thought you wanted a brand-focused analysis of every maker of ties out there. For those who are curious, the website for E. Marinella is: http://www.marinellanapoli.it/

You guys forgot some of my favorites: Etro, Paul Smith and Romeo Gigli - none in the same class as Kiton, or course, and in general wholely unsuited for business, but some of the funkiest patterns and color schemes out there.

I recently bought a beautiful hand made wool tie by Hugh Parsons. Anyone know anything about him? Says it's made in England... (Joe G?)

Woven is also more popular in Europe. Haven't been there yet

, so perhaps someone else can comment on that (Joe G?).

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Woven ties generally are more popular in Europe. Most of my ties are woven. I have seen a lot of men wear ties that are printed onto a monocromatic but interesting weave, though. A lot of Brionis are like that, and last fall I saw some T&As in that mould, with a print over a herringbone weave. (Speaking of Brioni, I saw a lot of Brionis at Neimans that didn't have the shirt-loop. They were undiscounted, and had the little plaque instead of the name screened onto the loop. Are they going away from that distinguishing touch?)

Hermes/Ferragamo- Usually silk prints. Hermes unlined. Ferragamo a bit thinner than normal..

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One thing is, Hermes seems to have two lines. Their better ties are the serial-numbered prints. Their other ones, which aren't numbered and often feature an "H" print, don't seem any better than the other "designer" ties, the Ferragamos, Zegnas, and Vuittons, etc. Peace, JG

I recently bought a beautiful hand made wool tie by Hugh Parsons. Anyone know anything about him? Says it's made in England...

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From what little I could make out from some quick web searching, Hugh Parsons is a London shop on Regent Street, established in 1925, that specializes in hand-made ties. It's a subsidiary of Milan-based Orsini (probably via acquisition), which makes ties for Gucci, Givenchy and Dunhill, amongst others.

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I recently bought a beautiful hand made wool tie by Hugh Parsons. Anyone know anything about him? Says it's made in England...
From what little I could make out from some quick web searching, Hugh Parsons is a London shop on Regent Street, established in 1925, that specializes in hand-made ties. It's a subsidiary of Milan-based Orsini (probably via acquisition), which makes ties for Gucci, Givenchy and Dunhill, amongst others.

Hugh Parsons is a London shop on Regent Street, established in 1925, that specializes in hand-made ties.

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I thought my pride had just gotten an huge dent: a men's shop I don't know about. Thank God, it's not a shop but an office on Regent Street. I don't know about Parsons ties, but the famous make of woolen ties is Michael Drake, also in London.

My personal list of favorites:

Kiton
Battistoni
Bvlgari
Del' Oglio
Bizzochi
Isaia
Borrelli
Zegna Napoli
Brioni
Stefano Ricci

I have one Lorenzini tie, a silk/linen blend that is quite nice, with an exposed slip-stitch.