Fused/Canvas Question

HoustonBusiness · Apr 25, 2005

I've read the many posts discussing the differences between canvas and fused construction. I didn't see my question addressed elsewhere, but if it was please feel free to send me to the link.

If I understand correctly, "canvas" construction refers to an actual piece of canvas that is hand-stitched into the suit jacket, whereas "fused" construction refers to the use of some sort of hot glue to fuse together the suit fabric.

I must be missing something. Doesn't "fusing" refer to a method of securing the fabric, whereas "canvas" refers to the addition of a piece of fabric? Â Do fused suits also have canvas added to them and the only difference is that in fused suits the fabric is secured by hot glue, as opposed to hand-stitching?

Carlo · Apr 26, 2005

Visually is easier, here ya go. Note - if there is a layer of canvas interlining you can feel it y pinching the lapel and rubbing gently, same thing down at the bottom.

johnnynorman3 · Apr 26, 2005

No.

You are right that you are missing something.

In a fused suit, a "felt-like" fabric is literally ironed onto the fabric -- sort of like an iron on patch. If you cut open a navy blue suit, for example, the inside of the wool fabric would not look navy blue -- instead, it would look grey and felt-like. In a canvas coat, instead of fusing this felt to the fabric, a layer of canvas is stitched on the lapels, and to the major seams on the front of the coat. The canvas is stitched tight to the underside of the lapels, and literally "floats" as a middle layer at the front of the coat.

Carlo · Apr 26, 2005

Johnny - I think we cross posted... but who would be sick enough to cut them open?

Carlo · Apr 26, 2005

Here is the back of the lapel on a Kiton Super 180's (14 micron) fabric. Those who know the fabric know how fine the pattern is. The little black dots here and there are the tiny handstitches where the canvas interlining is sewn to the fabric. The larger items are the boutonniere and keeper for scale. So when somebody talks about skill and craftsmanship this gives an idea of why a $4000 suit is $3600 more than a $400 suit. For those who would like me to cut this one open... NO. But if you have a moth-eaten Kiton around and want to mail it to me I'll hack/shoot/post for you.

johnapril · Apr 26, 2005

Brilliant, clear explainations, folks. I think we are getting better at this.

HoustonBusiness · Apr 26, 2005

Carlo and Johnny:

Thanks for your detailed explanations and the graphics. It is all crystal clear to me now.

Vintage Gent · Apr 26, 2005

Interesting stuff. Another question for those in the know... At what point in the last century did fusing become the accepted norm for mid-range and lower RTW? As a collector of vintage clothes from the 1950s and earlier, I've found nary an example of fusing, even among what would then have been lower end RTW.

LongWing · Apr 26, 2005

This discussion is very helpful for me - thanks.

Just a little more clarification please: On the canvas lapel, it looks like the canvas is stitched to the bottom of the lapel while the top is free floating, thus allowing the pinch test.

On the fused, is the top or bottom fused, or both, or is the whole lapel fused together in one thick mass?

Thanks,
Charles

johnnynorman3 · Apr 26, 2005

Normally the bottom of the lapel is fused -- though I have seen the top fused in one suit (very strange indeed). I'd recommend not doing any sort of pinch test or rub test of the lapel, as it can stretch the fabric out of shape depending on what type of fabric it is.

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