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  • UNIFORM LA CHILLICOTHE WORK JACKET Drop, going on right now.

    Uniform LA's Chillicothe Work Jacket is an elevated take on the classic Detroit Work Jacket. Made of ultra-premium 14-ounce Japanese canvas, it has been meticulously washed and hand distressed to replicate vintage workwear that’s been worn for years, and available in three colors.

    This just dropped today. If you missed out on the preorder, there are some sizes left, but they won't be around for long. Check out the remaining stock here

    Good luck!.

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  1. armscye

    Leather Alterations in Connecticut?

    Danbury. Cerveira's. Classically trained, second generation, Portuguese master tailor. Fernando was waxing thread for his father at the age of six, he tells me.
  3. armscye

    Leather Alterations in Connecticut?

    I have a wonderful tailor, but his machine can't handle a motorcycle style jacket with 1.2mm leather. Can anyone recommend a leather alterations specialist in Connecticut? BTW I've gone the route of contacting saddle shops and cycle dealers, and to my astonishment, haven't received a viable...
  4. armscye

    Adding elbow patches to tweed sportcoat

    Elbow patches need not be ovals, so you have some flexibility in covering the tear. For example, In "Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy", one of the senior spies in British Intelligence wears tweed jackets with diamond-shaped patches that author LeCarre calls "Harlequin style." I have also seen...
  5. armscye

    Changing (Slightly) Shoe Color

    In my experience, corrected-grain shoes are the ones that show the GREATEST improvement from being stripped/repolished. The purpose of the grain correction-- which is applied like a paint job over the entire hide-- is to cover any potential flaws, and to give the less sophisticated buyer a...
  6. armscye

    Distance between last button & bottom of sleeve?

    I would say no MORE than 3/4 inch. The greater distance is the mark of poorly finished RTW.
  7. armscye

    Surgeon's Cuffs on Topcoat?

    What says the panel on surgeon's cuffs with working buttonholes on a topcoat or overcoat? I have two new overcoats about to go off to my tailor for slimming, detailing, and button upgrading, so now would be the time to add surgeon's cuffs if I were going to do it. One is a SB navy cashmere...
  8. armscye

    Bespoke workmanship

    Certain elements of a bespoke suit are often deliberately less perfect looking than a machine made suit-- most notably the buttonholes (some custom suitmakers sew them rather roughly as proof of hand worksmanship), and topstitching. I've heard this called the "artisan" look.
  9. armscye

    Big tie knot

    Both four-in-hand and Windsor knots can be "volumized" to suit, presuming you have enough length. For a four in hand, do the main wrap twice around rather than once. You'll have what's called a Prince Albert-- still asymmetrical and narrow, just bigger. With a full Windsor, you loop...
  10. armscye

    Nettleton shell cordovan shoes

    Nettleton was indeed a premier maker, regarded as the equal of Florsheim Imperials. My Uncle Jude wore them as his wedding/courtroom shoe. they are similar in quality and trad styling to a fine New England shoe that vanished at about the same time, Walk-Over
  11. armscye

    Breitling/Britix

    At one time Breitling had a "junior brand" (a la Tudor) called Merit. But this was at least 30 years ago.
  12. armscye

    Permanent pants creases in bespoke suits?

    In the May GQ, there is a piece on tailor to the stars Jack Victor, in which the standard Jack Victor pant is described as having slash front pockerts, no rear pockets, and creases that are "permanent" because they are stitched in. I have seen military and western garments with...
  13. armscye

    does anyone watch law and order?

    Farina is a former real-life Chicago cop and a genuinely stylish guy. In an interview around the time of Snatch he remarked on his affection for custom shirts. There are lots of well-dressed New York City detectives. Clothes are cheap if you know your way around town, and in a city where your...
  14. armscye

    Best sunglasses for less than $100?

    Proof, please? Five minutes of websurfing turns up a New Zealand consumer-testing report (below) that says that virtually all of the cheap sunglasses they tested provide at least 95% UV protection. Hmm, that's what I said. Or you can check any of the websites for the high-buck sunglasses, which...
  15. armscye

    Best sunglasses for less than $100?

    Dollar Store will do fine. I developed advertising for a sunglass maker in the mid Nineties, and was briefed by an overly frank optics engineer. Basically, ANY glass, polycarbonate, or CR-39 acrylic lens with a light transmission in the 10-14% range gives you the same level of UV A and UV B...
  16. armscye

    Buttonholes

    Buttonholes are in fact one of the signatures of custom tailors, and reflect a great deal of individuality. Savile Row seems to specialize in big, heavily reinforced buttonholes with a distinct lip, while Kiton's are small, insubstantial, and appear unreinforced. Oxxford's lapel buttonholes...
  17. armscye

    History of Fusing in jackets?

    I cannot address the origins of fused suits, but I do recall reading a rather lengthy study of the British vs Italian RTW suit industries, in which the author makes a strong case that Italian suits have become a world standard for two reasons: the presence of a smart, adaptable fabric industry...
  18. armscye

    Custom suit/lost trousers

    If the suit was made of an English fabric, you might take a sample to a tailor who has swatch books from the big British mills, and see if a match turns up. I am of the opinion that a precise match is not absolutely essential-- the eye glosses over small differences of fabric finish. However...
  19. armscye

    Changing shoulder padding

    First, let me bow to Mr. Kabbaz, who has "been there and done that" in the shirt business more than anyone. I'll accept the concept that in my odd case the process of padectomy works for odd reasons. However I must also note that the effect of pad removal is fairly subtle-- if you do...
  20. armscye

    eBay help

    The question here is applying pressure at the right point. Importing or retailing fraudulent goods is actually a crime-- here in New York they regularly have perp walk TV news segments after they bust fake CD sellers. In addition, the company's being defrauded are usually very interested in...
  21. armscye

    Changing shoulder padding

    May I comment from the perspective of actually having been there and done that? 1. I have an exceptionally broad, unsloping shoulder that REQUIRES the removal of most shoulder pads. Hence I have performed this particular operation at least 30 times. 2. On every RTW suit I have ever opened up...
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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 97 38.0%

  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 92 36.1%

  • Really don't care

    Votes: 29 11.4%

  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 42 16.5%

  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 14.9%
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