The Overcoat Thread

[jonathanS]

Here's two images taken from this thread.
You want the buttons a good distance from the edge as you can see here
View attachment 2117107 View attachment 2117109
This is the norm.
I put the buttons 2.5" to 3" from the edge depending on the size of the coat.
Looking thru this thread for these images; realized how many more DB topcoats than SB topcoats there are.
My 70 year old Southern Italian coat maker was making a SB topcoat for a friend. Being a tailor since he was a teenager, he said it was the first SB topcoat he ever made. Guess I believe him.

For what it’s worth, to me, a db coat makes sense since it’s a second layer against the cold. I’ve only thought about having a coat made as a db. Never sb. Whether it’s an ulster, polo or Chester.

 

[te0o]

I posted this on another thread but this is probably the better place. RTW Ulster - 800g wool fabric. Debating whether to keep or not. It feels a little too big on the skirt and too tight in the waist/hip.

Looking for feedback here if the jacket is worth keeping and tailoring, and if so, what to tailor.

I’m not used to this style and it’s a bit bold so if I keep I want to be confident in the choice.

View attachment 2117019

Looks lovely to me! What's the brand of the coat?

 

[comrade]

Looks lovely to me! What's the brand of the coat?

Great coat. It looks very close-fitting. Will you wear it with a jacket?

 

[LuxLemon]

Thank you all! Pushing me in the right direction - feel like I will maybe take a little bit of the waist compression out but giving me more confidence in the purchase for sure! It is from Spier and Mackay.

Will wear with a jacket once or twice a week, just as often with sweatshirts and knits. I'll probably lean towards alterations while wearing a jacket to err on the roomier side.

 

[WoolyLamb]

Thank you all! Pushing me in the right direction - feel like I will maybe take a little bit of the waist compression out but giving me more confidence in the purchase for sure! It is from Spier and Mackay.

Will wear with a jacket once or twice a week, just as often with sweatshirts and knits. I'll probably lean towards alterations while wearing a jacket to err on the roomier side.

A little extra room is much better than not enough

 

[DorianGreen]

I posted this on another thread but this is probably the better place. RTW Ulster - 800g wool fabric. Debating whether to keep or not. It feels a little too big on the skirt and too tight in the waist/hip.

Looking for feedback here if the jacket is worth keeping and tailoring, and if so, what to tailor.

I’m not used to this style and it’s a bit bold so if I keep I want to be confident in the choice.

View attachment 2117019

I certainly would keep it, very nice garment and flattering fit.

 

[hbk320]

How could I say no for $13?
View attachment 2113371 View attachment 2113373 View attachment 2113375

Excellent buy!
Vintage USAF wool overcoat is well made and made to last a life time!
Their blue shade is also very versatile.

 

[DorianGreen]

Bespoke overcoat by Taillour.

 

[anr78]

I posted this on another thread but this is probably the better place. RTW Ulster - 800g wool fabric. Debating whether to keep or not. It feels a little too big on the skirt and too tight in the waist/hip.

Looking for feedback here if the jacket is worth keeping and tailoring, and if so, what to tailor.

I’m not used to this style and it’s a bit bold so if I keep I want to be confident in the choice.

View attachment 2117019

Keep!!

 

[comrade]

Keep!!

Find out how much it can be let out in the waist. Also, how it fits over a jacket.
It it can be made to fit to your satisfaction, KEEP IT !!

 

[anr78]

I kind of love the nipped waist, but it’s 100% a keeper either way.

 

[DorianGreen]

Very subdued, perfect for a formal attire, with a touch of eccentricity.

 

[Peak and Pine]

How could I say no for $13?
View attachment 2113371 View attachment 2113373 View attachment 2113375

Curious, what sort of wear would you give to that coat and whereabouts would you wear it? This may be obvious, but are you aware jt's a United States Air Force officer's coat, and about the only place on earth that color exists in a fabric is in that particular coat and that it has metal buttons stamped with the USAF insignia?

 

[eazye]

Yeah, I'm fully aware. I collect and wear vintage and current military surplus garments. I'll wear it with the same kinds of clothing I would wear any other overcoat. Think beat up jeans, a tee shirt and trainers to flannels/cords etc and sweaters with boots. I'll snap a pic next time I bust it out.

 

[corpseposeur]

My vintage US raglan tweed balmaacan. Made by a store called James Campion, who apparently was a tailor at Dartmouth University. Based on the styling it's probably from the 1950s or early 60s. It's an excellent heavy tweed herringbone with grey, white, black, and blue. It has beautiful matte horn buttons. It is probably a bit too long for me but I love it. If I was ever to commission a bespoke overcoat, it would basically be a copy of this one.