RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

[DG123]

Went with some CXL venetians today:

I've not seen before the bottom that is on your pair of CXL Venetian. Is it a double leather sole? Triple leather?

 

[coolarrow]

I've not seen before the bottom that is on your pair of CXL Venetian. Is it a double leather sole? Triple leather?

I believe it is a double leather sole finished off with a topy. See this video at around the 2:00 mark:

 

[Garrister]

I believe it is a double leather sole finished off with a topy. See this video at around the 2:00 mark:

I think they call that sole Montello Tempest. I have it on a loafer too. It's very durable.

 

[ccpl14]

Espresso shell pennys yesterday. These are unlined:

Are the midsoles on this pair natural (or light) colored? If so, would you mind posting some pics?

I have a pair of beefrolls from Rancourt in the same leather with dark midsoles and am contemplating resoling with natural midsoles and LH soles, but I was afraid it would look odd.

Anything would be appreciated. TIA!

 

[shahtirthak]

Harrison Boot Redux in natural CXL for today. The Lactae Havea Soles are very very comfortable.

 

[KarlHungus]

These are 2011 Allen Edmonds' Kenwood model. Anyone know if Rancourt was still producing for AE at this point?

 

[SpallaPerfetta]

These are 2011 Allen Edmonds' Kenwood model. Anyone know if Rancourt was still producing for AE at this point?
View attachment 2179485

Not sure but those look almost exactly like Rancourt beefrolls.

 

[Aenonymous]

These are 2011 Allen Edmonds' Kenwood model. Anyone know if Rancourt was still producing for AE at this point?
View attachment 2179485

No, they were not. 2011 would have been the tail end of Allen Edmond's Lewiston, Maine production, but those shoes would not have been made by Rancourt. Rancourt split from AE in 2009. Immediately after the split Rancourt & AE operated out of the same building but maintained separate workforces (AE staff on one half of the floor making AE shoes, Rancourt staff making Rancourt shoes on the other half). By 2011 Rancourt had exited that AE building entirely to relocate across town to their current location. Can't remember the exact month but I believe AE then closed their Lewiston plant permanently in 2012.

 

[DG123]

It is disappointing that for latest pre-sale as well as newest men's style model introductions Rancourt seems to have discontinued offering B (narrow) width.

 

[KarlHungus]

Not sure but those look almost exactly like Rancourt beefrolls.

Indeed, looks very, very similar and I was aware Rancourt had at one point produced under AE.

No, they were not. 2011 would have been the tail end of Allen Edmond's Lewiston, Maine production, but those shoes would not have been made by Rancourt. Rancourt split from AE in 2009. Immediately after the split Rancourt & AE operated out of the same building but maintained separate workforces (AE staff on one half of the floor making AE shoes, Rancourt staff making Rancourt shoes on the other half). By 2011 Rancourt had exited that AE building entirely to relocate across town to their current location. Can't remember the exact month but I believe AE then closed their Lewiston plant permanently in 2012.

Wow, thanks for the great info. I'm always amazed the amount of knowledge that is floating around these forums. Guess AE must have picked up a spare cutting pattern or two that were lying around

A few more pics to please the crowd

 

[wdahab]

One further detail to pay attention to is the type of handstitch used on the moc.

Rancourt *always* uses a half-boxstitch on all the hand stitches. What I mean is that when they cross the two threads, they twist them together once, like how you start tying your shoelaces. Other makers (like your AEs). It causes the stitches to look like they very slightly overlap. Your AEs don't have that half-boxstitch, which is why they look like they have slight gaps between the stitches.

It probably only has marginal structural difference, but is a notable aesthetic difference. It seems to be a cultural thing, as whomever taught everyone how to do handstitching causes all generations to either do it or not do it.

Rancourt always does it. Quoddy never does it. Most of the Dominican Republic factories actually do it. Allen Edmonds generally does not do it.

Indeed, looks very, very similar and I was aware Rancourt had at one point produced under AE.

Wow, thanks for the great info. I'm always amazed the amount of knowledge that is floating around these forums. Guess AE must have picked up a spare cutting pattern or two that were lying around

A few more pics to please the crowd
View attachment 2179717
View attachment 2179719
View attachment 2179721

 

[KarlHungus]

One further detail to pay attention to is the type of handstitch used on the moc.

Rancourt *always* uses a half-boxstitch on all the hand stitches. What I mean is that when they cross the two threads, they twist them together once, like how you start tying your shoelaces. Other makers (like your AEs). It causes the stitches to look like they very slightly overlap. Your AEs don't have that half-boxstitch, which is why they look like they have slight gaps between the stitches.

It probably only has marginal structural difference, but is a notable aesthetic difference. It seems to be a cultural thing, as whomever taught everyone how to do handstitching causes all generations to either do it or not do it.

Rancourt always does it. Quoddy never does it. Most of the Dominican Republic factories actually do it. Allen Edmonds generally does not do it.

Interesting detail, thanks for sharing!

 

[Garrister]

One further detail to pay attention to is the type of handstitch used on the moc.

Rancourt *always* uses a half-boxstitch on all the hand stitches. What I mean is that when they cross the two threads, they twist them together once, like how you start tying your shoelaces. Other makers (like your AEs). It causes the stitches to look like they very slightly overlap. Your AEs don't have that half-boxstitch, which is why they look like they have slight gaps between the stitches.

It probably only has marginal structural difference, but is a notable aesthetic difference. It seems to be a cultural thing, as whomever taught everyone how to do handstitching causes all generations to either do it or not do it.

Rancourt always does it. Quoddy never does it. Most of the Dominican Republic factories actually do it. Allen Edmonds generally does not do it.

Excellent information. Learn something new everyday!

 

[Radboots]

Well, I have been a little tough on Rancourt here for their early 2024 customer service disappearing act and the delays on production, but I am pleased to report they do make a nice loafer. Since getting my Color 8s (CXL) in January, I've worn them at least twice a week including international airport travel and pounding pavement at conferences and they have held up quite well (aside from the heel stack). The clicking is excellent as the creasing is almost nonexistent and very faint. I do think I'd either like MORE flexibility than the leather sole allows or a little more squish, so I'm perusing the Reltex options for when it is time to re-sole. Thoughts on the Aspen vs Rally to still maintain sleek appearance? Don't want a lug.

 

[SpallaPerfetta]

Well, I have been a little tough on Rancourt here for their early 2024 customer service disappearing act and the delays on production, but I am pleased to report they do make a nice loafer. Since getting my Color 8s (CXL) in January, I've worn them at least twice a week including international airport travel and pounding pavement at conferences and they have held up quite well (aside from the heel stack). The clicking is excellent as the creasing is almost nonexistent and very faint. I do think I'd either like MORE flexibility than the leather sole allows or a little more squish, so I'm perusing the Reltex options for when it is time to re-sole. Thoughts on the Aspen vs Rally to still maintain sleek appearance? Don't want a lug.

Let’s see some pictures! I too had my issues with CS but I love my eggplant CXL loafers.