Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[the shah]



I think they look fine! Although I'm not a big fan of the colour myself. I don't think it goes too well with black. But that's just my personal preference.

agreed. also i don't think silent is good quality at all, so unless it really fits into the aesthetic better off keeping the cash

 

[blackakira]



These aren't yohji, but I wanted to see what the antifit crowd thinks of these silent pants. They were very inexpensive and I wanted to try some bottoms that were antifit but a little less dramatic than my hakamas.
I'm wearing them pretty high waisted with a belt. I like how they fit, think I might get them tapered so that they stack better. Thoughts?
I was also thinking I should get the waist taken in, or get a looser t shirt/top as the belt buckle highlights the wrong area of my torso

I think the pants on their own are fine but what is bringing down the whole get-up to average territory is the styling(i feel this might be the wrong word).
Lets forget about colour and just think of shape.
That t-shirt is killing the whole thing with its proportions. The combination of tiny sleeves(which in my opinion is terrible) and elongated body of the shirt looks awfully disproportionate. I feel that you should always give the rise/crotch area of the trousers some space which you have cut off due to the mentioned elongated body of the shirt and your wearing of it high on the waist. If you wear it high waisted, perhaps tuck the shirt in otherwise, i suggest dropping the trousers a few inches. i think either suggestion would achieve far more pleasing proportions.

 

[davidlee388]



These aren't yohji, but I wanted to see what the antifit crowd thinks of these silent pants. They were very inexpensive and I wanted to try some bottoms that were antifit but a little less dramatic than my hakamas.
I'm wearing them pretty high waisted with a belt. I like how they fit, think I might get them tapered so that they stack better. Thoughts?
I was also thinking I should get the waist taken in, or get a looser t shirt/top as the belt buckle highlights the wrong area of my torso

I'm not familiar with silent at all but let me give my opinion based on what you said. You said these bottoms are antifit ( good for Yohji-ness ) so I assume they're oversized per se? You like how they fit and yet they don't stack the way you prefer; you said they're antifit but talking about taking the waist in..... which will become more fitted. I don't get it, sounds like you DON'T actually like the way they fit anyway. Why change so many things when buying a smaller size will give you more taper, smaller waist and less rise?

 

[HarukiUeda]

Hey. This is my first post here. I thrift a fair bit and I happen to come across a new Yohji coat for $40 at Salvation Army (The prices have recently inflated at all the thrift stores in my city) and after googling Yohji and finding this thread, I read all 200+ pages and decided to join. I love thrifting because it is a inexpensive way to own some fantastic quality (and brand name) clothing. It has also helped me to learn about fit and quality as I have tried on over 400 jackets and over 800 shirts in many dingy changing rooms. Being in a great city for thrifting (with a bunch of jet-setting folk) I find many gems that completely take me by surprise and as I try to build my wardrobe and style from scratch (I got rid of it all after college), I was wondering if this Yohji would fit in.





This coat is from the AW2005 collection (showed right after the parachute jacket) and it comes with an outer wool/cotton/nylon shell and a cotton/linen removable lining (HN-J20-121). Like the parachute piece, there are many ways to wear it. I am a short asian at 5'7" and this jacket is a size 4. The proportions are completely different to what was modeled on the catwalk which makes me a bit worried but I prefer the coat longer than was shown on the catwalk. The sleeves have surgeons cuffs with three buttons but being way too long for me, I can fold up past the buttons.


















I have many used-to-be expensive pieces of clothing (I keep telling myself that I should ebay some of the stuff I pick up but for some reason I end up hoarding it all) but I haven't seen any defining pieces that I could build upon until I came across this piece and learning about yohji and 80's japanese fashion has made me want to wear this. It is incredibly well constructed but with all of the buckles and zippers and pockets and metal vents, do I look like some korean try-hard with a on-sale-for-$100 yesstyle piece of crap?

 

[Rover!]

I don't think those pants are meant to be worn high waisted, most of the Damir/Silent pants seem to have this drop crotch thing going on that looks better if you don't hike them up. Like shah said, it's probably best to look at other brands if that isn't the aesthetic you're looking for.

 

[Jikan]

You certainly got a lot of responses for not having anything to do with Yohji! I love this thread.

 

[Benesyed]

I like silent on sale on yoox as lounge wear. I think there are occasional basics that could work with yohji but not often. Although, its very seasonally varying.

I would not mind aquiring this blazer at the right price. Its not "yohji" but I think it would play nicely with a lot of my anti-fit items.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[fireflygrave]



I'm not familiar with silent at all but let me give my opinion based on what you said. You said these bottoms are antifit ( good for Yohji-ness ) so I assume they're oversized per se? You like how they fit and yet they don't stack the way you prefer; you said they're antifit but talking about taking the waist in..... which will become more fitted. I don't get it, sounds like you DON'T actually like the way they fit anyway. Why change so many things when buying a smaller size will give you more taper, smaller waist and less rise?

Taking the waist is is probably the wrong move, I just need a looser top so that the belt area doesn't show so much. Basically I just need more loose-ness in my wardrobe but its a slow process to acquire it.
I don't want to make the pants tighter, I just like the contrast between a small cuff measurement and loose thighs and top block. i may take a picture of how they look worn lower soon. Here's the model picture:

It's possible I don't have long enough legs to wear them like the photo.

 

[Benesyed]



Taking the waist is is probably the wrong move, I just need a looser top so that the belt area doesn't show so much. Basically I just need more loose-ness in my wardrobe but its a slow process to acquire it.
I don't want to make the pants tighter, I just like the contrast between a small cuff measurement and loose thighs and top block. i may take a picture of how they look worn lower soon. Here's the model picture:

It's possible I don't have long enough legs to wear them like the photo.

Hey!, I think you should perhaps get some pins and and mess around with the type of shape you would like to get out of it. Or maybe return it. Silent has a pretty directional aesthetic that is sometimes hard to match with more yohji type things just because of the texture and nature of the fabrics.

Or maybe im just narrow in my creative scope with pieces

 

[davidlee388]



Hey. This is my first post here. I thrift a fair bit and I happen to come across a new Yohji coat for $40 at Salvation Army (The prices have recently inflated at all the thrift stores in my city) and after googling Yohji and finding this thread, I read all 200+ pages and decided to join. I love thrifting because it is a inexpensive way to own some fantastic quality (and brand name) clothing. It has also helped me to learn about fit and quality as I have tried on over 400 jackets and over 800 shirts in many dingy changing rooms. Being in a great city for thrifting (with a bunch of jet-setting folk) I find many gems that completely take me by surprise and as I try to build my wardrobe and style from scratch (I got rid of it all after college), I was wondering if this Yohji would fit in.





This coat is from the AW2005 collection (showed right after the parachute jacket) and it comes with an outer wool/cotton/nylon shell and a cotton/linen removable lining (HN-J20-121). Like the parachute piece, there are many ways to wear it. I am a short asian at 5'7" and this jacket is a size 4. The proportions are completely different to what was modeled on the catwalk which makes me a bit worried but I prefer the coat longer than was shown on the catwalk. The sleeves have surgeons cuffs with three buttons but being way too long for me, I can fold up past the buttons.


















I have many used-to-be expensive pieces of clothing (I keep telling myself that I should ebay some of the stuff I pick up but for some reason I end up hoarding it all) but I haven't seen any defining pieces that I could build upon until I came across this piece and learning about yohji and 80's japanese fashion has made me want to wear this. It is incredibly well constructed but with all of the buckles and zippers and pockets and metal vents, do I look like some korean try-hard with a on-sale-for-$100 yesstyle piece of crap?

Hey, you have one of the most interesting pieces from AW05 ( my personal favourite PH ), yes it is indeed Look 42. Asobu, Wire and I were discussing this piece last year when it appeared on Y! in sz 2 and they both advised me to go for it. I was outbidded 10 mins before the auction ended to which I couldn't respond using a Proxy. It sold for ~ 38k yen, I was gutted. The construction is indeed crazy good, so unusual in style as well, fun, practical and unique. It's a very rare piece; I did see this on eBay some months later ( a Gernan seller ) in sz 4 but I considered it too big for me ( I ain't a fold sleeves fan, but it's just me lol ) so I passed. You and I have the same height but if you think it works, it works! Sometimes the perfect fit in the Yohji Universe is the imperfect fit.

Finally to get this piece at that price is just ridiculously ridiculous. #envy

 

[Benesyed]

where do you live, I need to visir those thrift stores more often!

 

[Ivwri]

Welcome to the thread Haruki. I will just echo what David said with regards to the sizing of that piece and say that if you are comfortable in it then it is the right fit for you, hehe. It looks pretty good from your photos and is definitely more than a steal at $40! Looking forward to some more contributions by you in the thread.

 

[the shah]

very bizarre but i just found out the Y-3 boutique in Dubai actually carries PH and also Y's, the owner just stuffed it into a corner

 

[Ivwri]

Lol, really? That gives me one more place to check out next time I am over there!

 

[the shah]

ah sorry ! just a rack of Y's for men shoved out of sight with extortionist price tags lol no Pour Homme ...