Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[pickpackpockpuck]



I'm sure that varies. Also I'm 99% sure that Yohji its arriving in Paris with boxes and boxes and boxes of garments. Usually couple of days before the show its the pre-styling where you have one model for whole day and you building looks with the garments you have around you according to your concept. After that you have casting where you have 3-4 important and different outfits, which goes on the models that are coming to be seen. After long day and seeing hundreds of models you edit the one you like and you call their agency so they can come next day for actual fitting of the look certain boy will have. You may add looks (garments) on the way depending how the line-up its.
Then the day of the show you have all the buyers coming to look at the full collection and they are picking up things, which means they might like something not on the runway.
That's what I've seen from my couple season in Italian knit house. Of course different brands have different scheme of doing things, but it won't be far off.

That makes things a lot clearer. Good to get an insider's insight. Thanks.

EDIT - They also got in the look 23 jacket with the neck button closure and asymmetrical double collar. Actually, p4, whenever you get to Atelier, if they still have that jacket in stock, could you have a look at how it fits? Curious about it.

Sure, no problem. If you have specific questions feel free to PM me.

 

[davidlee388]



I've been told that if I want to do some tailoring on the jacket it's best to do it before sending it to the cleaners.
Still debating about tailoring the sleeves or removing the light shoulder pads, a part of me wants to just put it on and leave it original.
I'm uploading some pics (bear in mind it hasn't been ironed) to ask for your opinion regarding that and more importantly about the general fit (don't tell me it fits bad because I think I was able to get the matching pants ). I'll wear it with normal and rolled up sleeves.
The jacket is super comfortable and lightweight. When I put it on it's almost like I'm wearing a cozy light sweater, it falls nicely and wraps the body but at the same time it feels like I have this layer of air in between, hehe this probably doesn't make any sense but it's hard to describe. Fabric and construction seem top notch to me.

Spoiler: More Pics

Asobu, the code is only printed on the outside tag (see pic below), not on the fabric composition tag. So I think we can assume that the codes started from day 1 but only appeared on the interior tags later on.

Spoiler: Code

The blazer looks good IMO. I'm confused that you want to either tailor the sleeves ( make them shorter ) or take the shoulder pads out ( effectively make sleeves slightly longer ), so what do you mean? The dropped shoulder look is part of the styling of 90s YYPH , work well with the usually huge chest creating that oversized silhouette. Your sleeves look OK to me anyway. Also the 50/50 ramie/rayon blend is a great summer fabric.

 

[stadsvandringar]

Atelier just put up pics of the new yohji buy. Definitely feeling the collarless tab jacket. For some reason Atelier's buy usually feels pretty boring to me. This time is no exception, but that is a really nice jacket. Anyone know what retail is going to be?

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

I agree that their buy is usually boring. I think they really limit themselves by basically only carrying black with some white shirts thrown in.

 

[cupper]



The blazer looks good IMO. I'm confused that you want to either tailor the sleeves ( make them shorter ) or take the shoulder pads out ( effectively make sleeves slightly longer ), so what do you mean? The dropped shoulder look is part of the styling of 90s YYPH , work well with the usually huge chest creating that oversized silhouette. Your sleeves look OK to me anyway. Also the 50/50 ramie/rayon blend is a great summer fabric.

David thanks for your input. The taking out of the shoulder pads has nothing to do with the sleeves although as you say it'll make them longer. Just wondering if in this case a less rigid/structured shoulder line would look better on me (I'm no expert, so don't know if it would look good without the pads as the jacket was created with them).

 

[Parker]

I'd leave it as-is, cupper. Wear it for a while. Get used the to the cut. You can always decide later to alter anything. I think the shoulders and sleeves look fine as they are though. Glad you got the pants, because I think white jackets like this look best in a full suit set-up.

 

[davidlee388]



David thanks for your input. The taking out of the shoulder pads has nothing to do with the sleeves although as you say it'll make them longer. Just wondering if in this case a less rigid/structured shoulder line would look better on me (I'm no expert, so don't know if it would look good without the pads as the jacket was created with them).

Well if you are not sure, I would say don't rush into it. Wear it as it is for a while first, if you ain't happy then alter it. I had a few of my blazers' sleeves altered, never straight away though. Once done it can't be undone without affecting the impeccable finish unless your tailor is very good.

If your jacket needs cleaning, it needs cleaning! What has cleaning the garment got to do with altering it first anyway?

 

[cupper]

Parker yes I think I'll leave as is for now. It's not white though, it's beige :tounge: (comes across a lot lighter in the photos because of the flash and natural light).

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

cupper, looking at the jacket, it looks like it could be really cool with a long shirt underneath that will hang down past the jacket a bit. i also agree that you shouldn't alter it. i think it's more of a styling challenge than a problem with the fit. (and of course feel free to ignore my completely untrained opinion )

edit: or what kiko said above

 

[cupper]

David my tailor is my Grandma and she is indeed very good I'll ask her what she thinks about the shoulders but for now I'll leave it as is.

Of course I'll get it cleaned but if it's going to be altered it's best to make the alterations, then clean it and iron it as opposed to clean, iron and then alterations.

 

[dantebykiko]

a/w 04 zipper suit in size 3 - 35k yen.

jacket - http://item.rakuten.co.jp/ragtag/r2101701751340/

pants - http://item.rakuten.co.jp/ragtag/r2101800519940/

someone need to buy this before i do. STEAL.

 

[surver]



surver, ysforliving ?

that's it, thx. yeah, i've seen them in japan as well as in hong kong and taiwan a couple of years ago but no longer; thought went defunct... anyway, i think it's a franchise brand and not strictly yohji... more muji-esque... as with the glasses...

would be interesting if someday yy does do a couple of 'serious' furniture pieces in line with his mainline clothes and aesthetic... as rei once did way back in the nineties...

 

[snowmanxl]

pickpack, when is your yohji shipment coming in?

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

It should arrive today. (edit: just arrived!) I would promise to take a pic to show you guys but I only have an iphone and a dirty mirror (somehow wife gets her makeup all over that thing) and the pic would inevitably show nothing. But I'll still let you know what I think of them.

Because some plans got mixed up I was actually able to check out Atelier's buy yesterday. The heavy wool trousers are true to their name. They're a thick, felted wool that is very soft with a slightly fuzzy appearance (as you would expect from felted wool). The pleated cargo trousers almost looked like a technical pant. If I remember right the wool had a notable sheen to it, and the stitching and lines of the cargo pockets create a lot of geometric shapes. My favorite trousers of the group were the button cuff pleated trousers. I would have tried them on but I didn't really have time (and I was wearing boots and didn't want to untie them...yes, I'm that lazy). They're simple with a really nice shape. Unfortunately I didn't check the cuffs to see what the deal was with the buttons. I believe all the shirts were made of a fairly stiff cotton, and they all had a formal feeling to them. The coats were just as you would guess from their descriptions. The cashmere/wool melton was very thick and luxurious and would be very warm. The long gabardine coat...well, you guys know about the gabardine.

Ivwri, I did make a point to check out the look 23 jacket (http://thefashionisto.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/yy24.jpg). Aside from the little strap you see at the neck, it actually fastens with snaps. Each layer has a snap toward the top, allowing the bottom to hang open. I would say it has the typically large Yohji fit, so go with your regular size. I tried on the size 2 and it fit just as it does in the runway pic, with a slightly long boxy cut, long sleeves, and dropped shoulders. For the record, I'm about 5'9" and 150 lbs. (of pure steel, of course). I'm guessing you would want a size 4. I wasn't wearing the right pants for it so it looked a bit too big on me, but I think with more volume on the bottom to balance it would have looked great. If you're wondering about anything specific let me know.

 

[davidlee388]



It should arrive today. (edit: just arrived!) I would promise to take a pic to show you guys but I only have an iphone and a dirty mirror (somehow wife gets her makeup all over that thing) and the pic would inevitably show nothing. But I'll still let you know what I think of them.
Because some plans got mixed up I was actually able to check out Atelier's buy yesterday. The heavy wool trousers are true to their name. They're a thick, felted wool that is very soft with a slightly fuzzy appearance (as you would expect from felted wool). The pleated cargo trousers almost looked like a technical pant. If I remember right the wool had a notable sheen to it, and the stitching and lines of the cargo pockets create a lot of geometric shapes. My favorite trousers of the group were the button cuff pleated trousers. I would have tried them on but I didn't really have time (and I was wearing boots and didn't want to untie them...yes, I'm that lazy). They're simple with a really nice shape. Unfortunately I didn't check the cuffs to see what the deal was with the buttons. I believe all the shirts were made of a fairly stiff cotton, and they all had a formal feeling to them. The coats were just as you would guess from their descriptions. The cashmere/wool melton was very thick and luxurious and would be very warm. The long gabardine coat...well, you guys know about the gabardine.
Ivwri, I did make a point to check out the look 23 jacket (http://thefashionisto.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/yy24.jpg). Aside from the little strap you see at the neck, it actually fastens with snaps. Each layer has a snap toward the top, allowing the bottom to hang open. I would say it has the typically large Yohji fit, so go with your regular size. I tried on the size 2 and it fit just as it does in the runway pic, with a slightly long boxy cut, long sleeves, and dropped shoulders. For the record, I'm about 5'9" and 150 lbs. (of pure steel, of course). I'm guessing you would want a size 4. I wasn't wearing the right pants for it so it looked a bit too big on me, but I think with more volume on the bottom to balance it would have looked great. If you're wondering about anything specific let me know.

Very detailed lowdown on the Atelier stuff, thanks. I will be going to Hervia Bazaar ( keep calling it that, now it's just Hervia ) perhaps this weekend to handle its buy and perhaps add more info.

I would have thought you will need sz 3 being 5'9"?. If it's STILL big on you with a 2, think I can pass buying anything and look forward to SS13 ( did the same with AW11 ) instead

PS. Excuse my poor memory, what have you purchased?