Yet another bespoke blazer

[A Y]

I ordered a blazer from a tailor in Los Angeles (Enzo Caruso) today. It will be made from Cape Kid, SB 3-roll-2, 3-patch, with oxidized brass buttons. I believe this is the cloth:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/british...7619509370577/

The sticker on the back has a 5-digit number, and I believe the last 3 digits are 509.

I'm not sure how to line it. Right now, we're doing full-lining, but the cloth seems to be calling out for quarter-lining. How does Cape Kid handle not being fully lined?

This will be the second piece from him, so we're still playing with the details. The first jacket was a bit too slim in silhouette, so we're incrementally increasing various things, but mostly stuff around the chest. His style is clean and tight, which is a bit different than what I'm used to with my other tailor.

I almost went for an electric blue from H&S English Mohair, but am glad I didn't after just reading the comments here on that line of cloth. Originally, this blazer was supposed to be done with a dupioni silk, but we couldn't find the right color, so mohair it will be. There is still surface interest, but in a different way. The blazer will hopefully be versatile enough to go with jeans as well as wool pants.

--Andre

 

[Manton]

My mohair suits are unlined. I am not sure it matters much, as the weave is not open enough to let through much air.

 

[AndrewRogers]

Originally Posted by A Y

I ordered a blazer from a tailor in Los Angeles (Enzo Caruso) today. It will be made from Cape Kid, SB 3-roll-2, 3-patch, with oxidized brass buttons. I believe this is the cloth:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/british...7619509370577/

The sticker on the back has a 5-digit number, and I believe the last 3 digits are 509.

I'm not sure how to line it. Right now, we're doing full-lining, but the cloth seems to be calling out for quarter-lining. How does Cape Kid handle not being fully lined?

This will be the second piece from him, so we're still playing with the details. The first jacket was a bit too slim in silhouette, so we're incrementally increasing various things, but mostly stuff around the chest. His style is clean and tight, which is a bit different than what I'm used to with my other tailor.

I almost went for an electric blue from H&S English Mohair, but am glad I didn't after just reading the comments here on that line of cloth. Originally, this blazer was supposed to be done with a dupioni silk, but we couldn't find the right color, so mohair it will be. There is still surface interest, but in a different way. The blazer will hopefully be versatile enough to go with jeans as well as wool pants.

--Andre

Andre,

Sorry about that, I haven't had a chance to fill in all the numbers for Summer Cape Kid just yet. That is indeed the following cloth number.

69509

 

[Artisan Fan]

Looks like a nice fabric Andre. Congrats!

Please post the final product.

 

[Will]

Great color. I've been afraid of the weight and am happy you are doing the experiment for me.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by A Y

The blazer will hopefully be versatile enough to go with jeans as well as wool pants.

--Andre

Pick a different cloth if this is what you want.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by Despos

Pick a different cloth if this is what you want.
The Sunbeam cloth would be a better choice. Metal buttons with a mohair blazer sounds like a really bad idea.

 

[Cary Grant]

As to the lining- I'm becoming of a mind that full lining is rather superfluous except, perhaps in a particularly scratchy cloth.

I don't feel like I need any added warmth and would rather show the work of a nicely-finished, mostly (1/4) unlined jacket.

 

[epa]

My tailor insists on full lining even on linen blend summer cloths; he argues that half lining doesn't really make the jackets much more "cool" and can make them to "floppy" (rough translation from the Spanish language used by my tailor). I do not know whether to trust him or not. I heard that half lined jackets can imply more work, so maybe he is just a lazy bastard.
In any case, aren't blazers supposed to be NAVY? The cloth in image seems more like kind of light blue cloth (or is it my computer?). Now,if light blue, it would probably look better with kind of white buttons than with brass or gold buttons. IMO. Which is likely to be wrong.

 

[voxsartoria]

Sic transit mahonium americus.

- B

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by epa

My tailor insists on full lining even on linen blend summer cloths; he argues that half lining doesn't really make the jackets much more "cool" and can make them to "floppy" (rough translation from the Spanish language used by my tailor). I do not know whether to trust him or not. I heard that half lined jackets can imply more work, so maybe he is just a lazy bastard. In any case, aren't blazers supposed to be NAVY? The cloth in image seems more like kind of light blue cloth (or is it my computer?). Now,if light blue, it would probably look better with kind of white buttons than with brass or gold buttons. IMO. Which is likely to be wrong.
Partial lining is a gimmick. It does actually take more work to make a half or quarter lined jacket look nice but who cares? Just having something done because it's harder to make for the tailor does not make the garment better or nicer or anything.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Partial lining is a gimmick. It does actually take more work to make a half or quarter lined jacket look nice but who cares? Just having something done because it's harder to make for the tailor does not make the garment better or nicer or anything.

Meh- I personally find it noticeably cooler. I also am growing to prefer the lightness/less bulk.

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by Manton

My mohair suits are unlined. I am not sure it matters much, as the weave is not open enough to let through much air.

OK, thanks. The swatch looked kind of transparent, but I guess looks can be deceiving.

Originally Posted by AndrewRogers

69509

Thanks Andrew. That's the number.

Originally Posted by Despos

Pick a different cloth if this is what you want.

I'm guessing here, but do you think it will not be appropriate with denim because of the texture?

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

The Sunbeam cloth would be a better choice. Metal buttons with a mohair blazer sounds like a really bad idea.

Why is that? I have no experience with mohair, and would like to understand this. The buttons are pretty oxidized and a dull dark brown.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Sic transit mahonium americus.

Just one more excuse to stuff myself in a plane for 11 hours, and visit England.

Thanks for the well-wishes (guinea piggy or otherwise)!

--Andre

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by A Y

OK, thanks. The swatch looked kind of transparent, but I guess looks can be deceiving. Thanks Andrew. That's the number. I'm guessing here, but do you think it will not be appropriate with denim because of the texture? Why is that? I have no experience with mohair, and would like to understand this. The buttons are pretty oxidized and a dull dark brown. Just one more excuse to stuff myself in a plane for 11 hours, and visit England. Thanks for the well-wishes (guinea piggy or otherwise)! --Andre
I've seen many different weaves for mohair cloth. I think you can have them make mohair look like denim but not wear it with denim. Mohair is too slick to be a blazer, it's better for a city afterhours suit whether it's an upscale, trendy restaurant or some cocktail get to gether at a museum/opera house. An odd jacket would be better if it had texture, duppioni silk, that sunbeam cloth, high performance cloth with a pebble-y texture, cashmere twill or herringbone, even fresco. The metal buttons, irrespective of their weight are too heavy for the mohair and in any case will look cheap together.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

An odd jacket would be better if it had texture, duppioni silk, that sunbeam cloth, high performance cloth with a pebble-y texture, cashmere twill or herringbone, even fresco.

- B