What to do with my white wedding tuxedo look

[saxabras]

Just got the tuxedo in for my wedding. It won't be tailored until next year and hasn't been worn with accessories yet, but it's currently not looking as "lux" as I envisioned, so I'm looking for suggestions on how to make it more classy and less like a schlub. I went with a shawl collar which I'm sure didn't help, but I find peaks to be exhaustingly overdone in general and I was worried about looking too much like a waiter. I semi-regret this choice, as I do think this may be the one occasion where I think it could actually have been flashy. But I can't turn back time so help me out!

It's a off-white shawl collar jacket, worn with black tux pants. It will also be paired with a black bow-tie, black pocket square, and black (potentially with gold accents) studs and cufflinks. Potentially a deep oxblood boutonniere in the mix. So a few questions!

1. if i'm trying to dress it up a bit, should I throw a cummerbund or waistcoat into the mix? And if so, what color? Am I too late in the process for this?
   
   
2. the shoes will be patent leather, but I don't know whether to go whole cut or opera pump. I tend toward ostentatious (sometimes to my detriment) so im drawn to an opera pump, but don't want it to clash. Thoughts?
   
   
3. what would be my best shirt front and collar option?
   
   
4. any other general tips to lux it up
   
   (photo for context, but keep in mind it's untailored and I was coasting on fumes and coffee on this day)
   
   

 

[User123456789]

I think this looks pretty good considering it hasn't been tailored yet. The contrast you get when you throw on the black bow tie and studs will make it look a lot better than what is in the picture - where you whole upper body is just white.

I think all black tie outfits should have some waist covering. White is worn in warmer weather, and waist coats wear a little hotter. I think a black cummerbund would be more on theme with the outfit.

Opera pumps would be fine. Again on theme with the warmer weather aesthetic. Just make sure you wear good black socks.

Avoid the wing collar - I think they look weird with black tie. The style collar you have there looks fine. A shirt with some pleats would probably be a good idea to create a little more contrast with the jacket.

Biggest issue I see in the picture is your right side collapsing. Are you leaning to your right a little bit there, or do you have pretty significant dropped right shoulder? A good tailor could help out some there, as well as shorten the sleeves a bit so you're showing some cuff (and obviously hem the pants). If that is your natural posture though it might not be possible to get the right side laying perfectly clean.

 

[notdos]

Definitely dropped right shoulder. Might be as simple as an adjustment at your local chiropractor..not joking. Jacket seems snug, maybe let out a little.

 

[maxalex]

Keep it simple and elegant. A dinner jacket already makes a strong statement, no need to gild the lily.

I'm not a fan of cummerbunds even with a black tux--I just think they look fusty although I know others will disagree. I would prefer to imagine I'm James Bond at the roulette wheel, ready to leap out the casino window from a rope while firing at the bad guys as I jump into my Aston Martin. In the unlikely event this ever happens in my life, I'm thinking a cummerbund would slow me down.

You can't wear a boutonniere with a shawl collar because there is no button hole (that's what the word comes from) through which to fix the stem. I am aware that lots of people, especially teenage promgoers, pin elaborate corsages to their lapel; this is wrong on many levels, not least of which is that men should only wear a single flower, not a vase arrangement. On a more practical level, a pin is likely to ruin your grosgrain lapel.

I would wear a spread collar shirt in a shinier textured fabric like Royal Oxford, or just broadcloth if you prefer.

Fit looks pretty good to me from this one photo; the shoulder issue could be your pose? I would not let out the waist, but I live in Italy where we tend to wear more closely tailored jackets. Check the fit after a big meal; there should be a bit of room at the button point but not a lot.

 

[MattyS]

You can't wear a boutonniere with a shawl collar because there is no button hole (that's what the word comes from) through which to fix the stem. I am aware that lots of people, especially teenage promgoers, pin elaborate corsages to their lapel; this is wrong on many levels, not least of which is that men should only wear a single flower, not a vase arrangement. On a more practical level, a pin is likely to ruin your grosgrain lapel.

I've seen shawl collars with button holes. In fact, James Bond wears one in Quantum of Solace.

 

[maxalex]

I've seen shawl collars with button holes. In fact, James Bond wears one in Quantum of Solace.

Good point, they are sometimes done. Not often though, and I personally wouldn’t do it. Obviously all button holes on collars are ornamental (save for a few throat tab buttons on hunting style tweed jackets) but on notch or point lapels they “suggest” a purpose in that one could imagine turning up the collar in a gale. But a shawl collar is meant to suggest…a shawl, which would be wrapped around the throat in cold weather, not turned up. So in that case a button looks out of place. To my eye.

 

[MattyS]

Good point, they are sometimes done. Not often though, and I personally wouldn’t do it. Obviously all button holes on collars are ornamental (save for a few throat tab buttons on hunting style tweed jackets) but on notch or point lapels they “suggest” a purpose in that one could imagine turning up the collar in a gale. But a shawl collar is meant to suggest…a shawl, which would be wrapped around the throat in cold weather, not turned up. So in that case a button looks out of place. To my eye.

I think I agree, although I admit I also like the idea of wearing a bright red carnation in the shawl collar boutonniere of a white dinner jacket. I think, though, that if I had a buttonhole in my shawl collar, I'd feel the need to have a flower there every time I wear the jacket.

 

[saxabras]

Thanks everyone for all your insights. You're far more helpful than the reddit I cross-posted to, which I suppose shouldn't be a surprise!
You're all right about the boutonniere, I actually didn't realize it typically goes through the button-hole and assumed it was always pinned, grosgrain label be damned. I strongly leaned toward not using one anyway, as I didn't want to overcomplicate the color palette especially if i was throwing in gold accents, but the chief flower (a deep oxblood) was tempting.

Based on recommendations, I think I'll take the leap with opera pumps and for the shirt stick with spread collar but opt for a shinier royal oxford fabric. Still not sure about shirt pleats, but I have a pleated one kicking around that I can test the look on later. I won't get a waistcoat, but I think i'll explore a returnable black cummerbund and go empty-waisted or not based on how it looks.

Also thanks to everyone on the dropped shoulder bit. Tailors have always pointed out one arm is slightly longer than the other but haven't said anything beyond that, but now looking at past pictures of myself I can't unsee the clear consistent drop! Definitely going to look into this with a PT. Shocked I haven't noticed it myself and I'm finding out about this through a styleforum post haha