Urgent advice needed with Captoes leather *Creases*

[GNToast]

I recently purchased some nice black Oxford Captoes which just arrived today and after having tried them on, I used a shoehorn, and wearing them around the house for a little bit they just developed a crease!

Now I did notice something else while wearing them, my toe is an inch to an inch and a half away from the toe cap. I am a size 42 EU / 8 UK width F / 9 US width D.

Is this a sign of leather quality or is this natural? Even my shoe trees are an inch away from the toe cap. I attached an image with red boxes indicating the creases. Now this shoe is from TLB Artista and the leather is from Annonay and Charles F. Stead.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

First off, don’t freak out. The creasing is normal as it is for any leather shoe.

does the show feel comfortable? Is it too loose? The shoe last may allow for an elongated toe but as long as the widest part of the shoe lines up correctly with your foot, that’s what matters most.

 

[GNToast]

The shoe feels comfortable, feels a little loose but I didnt tie it all the way.

Since I'm D width in NA whats the literal equivalent to UK/EU? Thought it was F.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

The shoe feels comfortable, feels a little loose but I didnt tie it all the way.

Since I'm D width in NA whats the literal equivalent to UK/EU? Thought it was F.

it depends on the maker. For example, for Crockett & Jones, E is the standard width and G the wider. Edward Green is similar but they also offer F which is wider than the standard.

a lot depends on the last as well.

 

[GMcMillan]

The creasing is natural for calfskin and is due to deformation of the molecular structure at points of flexion. I think full grain layer is less likely to form severe creasing due to the "grain" layer (uppermost) having the most dense fiber structure. Also, I have come to the conclusion that this creasing is worsened by finishes applied to the leather, as the rigid polymeric finishes, which are not naturally flexible, do not wear well and form their own irregular creases. Some tanneries apply finishes, and some shoe makers apply their own finishes. Exactly what this entails, I'm not sure, but I am pretty sure that it's near impossible to find full grain, aniline-dyed leather used for footwear that does not have some sort of surface finish. Heavily treated leather seems to form creases within creases (check out a pair of worn new-age Cole Haans, which seem to be mostly plastic). This is from my experience with stripping factory shoes and re-dying: Once completely stripped, there is less creasing. Shoe trees will neither remove nor prevent creasing regardless of what anyone says (creases may become less visible temporarily but will return upon wearing).

Shell cordovan is a non-creasing leather, but it forms "rolls," which some people hate, I'm sure. Contrary to popular belief, shell is not a "muscle membrane." It is a thick, dense dermal layer structure unique to equine skin and thickest over the rump.

You may know all of this already. Kind of just using this as an excuse to get some of my knowledge out there. My obsession with leather has led me to a own over 30 pairs of shoes and to read an academic textbook on leather chemistry. Unfortunately, I rarely get to talk about it in-depth.

Best.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

The creasing is natural for calfskin and is due to deformation of the molecular structure at points of flexion. I think full grain layer is less likely to form severe creasing due to the "grain" layer (uppermost) having the most dense fiber structure. Also, I have come to the conclusion that this creasing is worsened by finishes applied to the leather, as the rigid polymeric finishes, which are not naturally flexible, do not wear well and form their own irregular creases. Some tanneries apply finishes, and some shoe makers apply their own finishes. Exactly what this entails, I'm not sure, but I am pretty sure that it's near impossible to find full grain, aniline-dyed leather used for footwear that does not have some sort of surface finish. Heavily treated leather seems to form creases within creases (check out a pair of worn new-age Cole Haans, which seem to be mostly plastic). This is from my experience with stripping factory shoes and re-dying: Once completely stripped, there is less creasing. Shoe trees will neither remove nor prevent creasing regardless of what anyone says (creases may become less visible temporarily but will return upon wearing).

Shell cordovan is a non-creasing leather, but it forms "rolls," which some people hate, I'm sure. Contrary to popular belief, shell is not a "muscle membrane." It is a thick, dense dermal layer structure unique to equine skin and thickest over the rump.

You may know all of this already. Kind of just using this as an excuse to get some of my knowledge out there. My obsession with leather has led me to a own over 30 pairs of shoes and to read an academic textbook on leather chemistry. Unfortunately, I rarely get to talk about it in-depth.

Best.

now doesn’t it feel better to get all of that off your chest?

 

[ValidusLA]

The creasing is natural for calfskin and is due to deformation of the molecular structure at points of flexion. I think full grain layer is less likely to form severe creasing due to the "grain" layer (uppermost) having the most dense fiber structure. Also, I have come to the conclusion that this creasing is worsened by finishes applied to the leather, as the rigid polymeric finishes, which are not naturally flexible, do not wear well and form their own irregular creases. Some tanneries apply finishes, and some shoe makers apply their own finishes. Exactly what this entails, I'm not sure, but I am pretty sure that it's near impossible to find full grain, aniline-dyed leather used for footwear that does not have some sort of surface finish. Heavily treated leather seems to form creases within creases (check out a pair of worn new-age Cole Haans, which seem to be mostly plastic). This is from my experience with stripping factory shoes and re-dying: Once completely stripped, there is less creasing. Shoe trees will neither remove nor prevent creasing regardless of what anyone says (creases may become less visible temporarily but will return upon wearing).

Shell cordovan is a non-creasing leather, but it forms "rolls," which some people hate, I'm sure. Contrary to popular belief, shell is not a "muscle membrane." It is a thick, dense dermal layer structure unique to equine skin and thickest over the rump.

You may know all of this already. Kind of just using this as an excuse to get some of my knowledge out there. My obsession with leather has led me to a own over 30 pairs of shoes and to read an academic textbook on leather chemistry. Unfortunately, I rarely get to talk about it in-depth.

Best.

This is some quality content.

 

[GMcMillan]

.

now doesn’t it feel better to get all of that off your chest?

Certainly

 

[JFWR]

Having your big toe that far from the end of the shoe seems like you've sized up considerably. I don't think you bought the right sized shoe, though if it is comfortable and feels good, who am I to say otherwise?