Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[hitsuji]

Some Random fabric pick ups I’ve got.

Some 80-90s Towntex and an unknown London Shrunk suiting (anybody come across Vaseron before?)

 

[hitsuji]

Another pick up, Sportex - 18/19 oz

 

[sake99]

Does anyone have experience with the mill Lanifico Rogna/their wsl solaros/wool silk cloths? My tailor introduced some bunches to me and the colors seem be quite unique

 

[Rowqk777]

Hi all, interested in making a pair of trousers for a sports jacket I had made in standeven capetown bunch (navy mesh jacketing wool/mohair) - i was suggested the Fresco Lite (8/9oz) in a medium grey? How does this cloth hold up for a pair of single pleated trousers, performance wise? - for dressy summer occasions.

Or would it be a wiser decision to stick with Fresco, Crispaire, standeven explorer, dugdale tropicalair?

Would be great to receive your opinion.

Thanks

 

[Crispyj]

Hi all, interested in making a pair of trousers for a sports jacket I had made in standeven capetown bunch (navy mesh jacketing wool/mohair) - i was suggested the Fresco Lite (8/9oz) in a medium grey? How does this cloth hold up for a pair of single pleated trousers, performance wise? - for dressy summer occasions.

Or would it be a wiser decision to stick with Fresco, Crispaire, standeven explorer, dugdale tropicalair?

Would be great to receive your opinion.

Thanks

I have 3 pairs of Standeven Explorer in various shades of grey. Holds crease very well, dry hand and drapes excellent.

Explorer is a better cloth than tropicalair and fox air. Crispaire is ok, but nothing to write home about.

 

[CrimsonWave]

Hi all, interested in making a pair of trousers for a sports jacket I had made in standeven capetown bunch (navy mesh jacketing wool/mohair) - i was suggested the Fresco Lite (8/9oz) in a medium grey? How does this cloth hold up for a pair of single pleated trousers, performance wise? - for dressy summer occasions.

Or would it be a wiser decision to stick with Fresco, Crispaire, standeven explorer, dugdale tropicalair?

Would be great to receive your opinion.

Thanks

I have 3 pairs of Standeven Explorer in various shades of grey. Holds crease very well, dry hand and drapes excellent.

Explorer is a better cloth than tropicalair and fox air. Crispaire is ok, but nothing to write home about.

View attachment 2161181

I agree with Crispyj’s observation about the drape and hand of the Standeven Explorer. I have three suits in that cloth and find it very dependable. While I found the Fox Air to be more wrinkle prone than the Explorer, I did not find it to be otherwise inferior. The only Tropicalaire suit I have feels the same as the Explorer to me. Alfred Brown x Merino Brothers’ high twist suiting is also comparable, although it does not seem to be able to hold a crease as well as the Explorer and Fox Air. However I would choose Drapers Ascot 4 ply over any of the high twist suitings I have tried.

Afraid I have not tried Fresco or Crispaire. Would like to try Fresco but perhaps not Crispaire given that recent posts about that cloth have not been enthusiastic.

 

[Rowqk777]

@Crispyj and @CrimsonWave thankyou very much! I agree that the Ascot 4 ply drapes wonderfully, however, on the suit separate to suiting scale (if such exists) I would say the 4 ply is too suity for my intention of pairing the trousers as a separate?

- standeven explorer has grey gems! Will look into this in the following week.

Now you have me second guessing my choice of jacketing - is the wool/mohair blend a good idea, it is awfully lightweight? My original inclination was to go for the Dugdale mockleno, midnight navy, unlined a proper workhorse of a jacket.

However my tailor charmed for the sleeker texture of the standeven cape town bunch, it looked good, it felt great. But now I feel upon reflection, it may also belong in the too suit-y end of the spectrum!

… why is this so difficult! Any advice how to proceed ? Stick or twist and if twist, which other mockleno/hopsack/basketweave type of cloth (on the not suity end of the spectrum) would work?

Many thanks!

 

[CrimsonWave]

@Crispyj and @CrimsonWave thankyou very much! I agree that the Ascot 4 ply drapes wonderfully, however, on the suit separate to suiting scale (if such exists) I would say the 4 ply is too suity for my intention of pairing the trousers as a separate?

- standeven explorer has grey gems! Will look into this in the following week.

Now you have me second guessing my choice of jacketing - is the wool/mohair blend a good idea, it is awfully lightweight? My original inclination was to go for the Dugdale mockleno, midnight navy, unlined a proper workhorse of a jacket.

However my tailor charmed for the sleeker texture of the standeven cape town bunch, it looked good, it felt great. But now I feel upon reflection, it may also belong in the too suit-y end of the spectrum!

… why is this so difficult! Any advice how to proceed ? Stick or twist and if twist, which other mockleno/hopsack/basketweave type of cloth (on the not suity end of the spectrum) would work?

Many thanks!

I think all the options I discussed above (Explorer, Fox Air, Ascot, Tropicalaire) would be appropriate for suits, so I am not sure which to select for a pair of odd trousers. You could consider the Harrisons Sea Shell though. I haven't tried it but heard good things about the bunch, which has a mottled look, and may be what you are looking for.

As for the coat, I have not seen the new Cape Town bunch but it seems there are different varieties in that bunch. Personally I would prefer something with some texture like a mockleno for a jacket.

 

[yanagi]

@Crispyj and @CrimsonWave thankyou very much! I agree that the Ascot 4 ply drapes wonderfully, however, on the suit separate to suiting scale (if such exists) I would say the 4 ply is too suity for my intention of pairing the trousers as a separate?

- standeven explorer has grey gems! Will look into this in the following week.

Now you have me second guessing my choice of jacketing - is the wool/mohair blend a good idea, it is awfully lightweight? My original inclination was to go for the Dugdale mockleno, midnight navy, unlined a proper workhorse of a jacket.

However my tailor charmed for the sleeker texture of the standeven cape town bunch, it looked good, it felt great. But now I feel upon reflection, it may also belong in the too suit-y end of the spectrum!

… why is this so difficult! Any advice how to proceed ? Stick or twist and if twist, which other mockleno/hopsack/basketweave type of cloth (on the not suity end of the spectrum) would work?

Many thanks!

Trust your tailor. Enjoy the process!

 

[jonathanS]

I agree with Crispyj’s observation about the drape and hand of the Standeven Explorer. I have three suits in that cloth and find it very dependable. While I found the Fox Air to be more wrinkle prone than the Explorer, I did not find it to be otherwise inferior. The only Tropicalaire suit I have feels the same as the Explorer to me. Alfred Brown x Merino Brothers’ high twist suiting is also comparable, although it does not seem to be able to hold a crease as well as the Explorer and Fox Air. However I would choose Drapers Ascot 4 ply over any of the high twist suitings I have tried.

Afraid I have not tried Fresco or Crispaire. Would like to try Fresco but perhaps not Crispaire given that recent posts about that cloth have not been enthusiastic.

This has been asked & answered many times, a search would probably have found this:

Fox air is expensive but great.

Drapers ascot might be better but it wears a little warm on hot summer days with humidity (although, in fairness, what doesn’t). I prefer it during warm weather winters (Florida winters). It’s also expensive.

I passionately don’t like crispaire. It doesn’t hold its shape at all. But it does feel nice. If you’re looking for something that breathes and holds its shape, crispaire isn’t it.

Mohair blends are great but expensive.

Heritage explorer seems to be a better value (Price / quality) fabric.

Trust your tailor. Enjoy the process!

+1 on this.

 

[kid1002]

I found 'Explorer' to be a bit thin. I have seen two suits made out of it pucker in some ways after 1 year of wear.

Piacenza 'First Class' is a recent bunch I tried to be light but robust.

 

[sensuki]

I have trousers in Fresco 510388 (mottled mid-grey) from the Lite, Fancies 2 & 3ply bunch and a Standeven Explorer as well (but Super 120s 240g).

The standeven trousers were actually my first proper bespoke order ever. I picked the cloth because it had better color variegation than the heavier weights in the bunch. I enjoy the trousers, but I think if I could order again I might choose the 310g instead despite the less variegated yarn.

The Fresco is great. Bullet proof stuff. Holds a sharp crease, but as noted in a discussion earlier either in this thread or the Ongoing Bespoke projects thread the trouser 'shape' can tend towards a boxier shaped <> than other fabrics. The particular quality I got has quite a rough hand, whereas the Standeven (being S 120s also) is very smooth in comparison. Fresco III bunch is smoother than the Fresco 2-ply that I got and still has good colours.

Have had both for 5 years. No signs of wear on the fabric that I can see. Both have been dry cleaned at least twice. I don't usually wear tailoring to work during the week, however.

Can't go wrong with either bunch I would say, the Frescos you can order samples from HFW for free from their website. If I was to order another high twist trouser I would either go 4-ply Finmeresco/Drapers, Fox Air or a heavier weight Explorer.

On a different topic, I received my MTM trousers from Assisi in the Dugdale Invincible after some issues with ordering the fabric (and in turn, I received trousers (free of charge) made up in the wrong fabrics before I got the Bedford Cord that I asked for). I like them - but I find the fabric a bit shiny, which is weird for a Cord type fabric. TBH I am more impressed with the fabric of one of the pairs made with mistakenly ordered fabric. It's not a color I can easily wear though - INV027 - Black Venetian 480g. Incredible stuff - awesome texture, not that shiny, incredible drape and looks incredibly sharp. Doesn't go with either of my jackets, but I can probably wear it with some knitwear instead.

 

[Crispyj]

I found 'Explorer' to be a bit thin. I have seen two suits made out of it pucker in some ways after 1 year of wear.

Piacenza 'First Class' is a recent bunch I tried to be light but robust.

There are 2 weights for explorer. 8oz and 11oz.
The 11oz is my recommendation.

 

[Crispyj]

I found 'Explorer' to be a bit thin. I have seen two suits made out of it pucker in some ways after 1 year of wear.

Piacenza 'First Class' is a recent bunch I tried to be light but robust.

Piacenza has some nice stuff, did you get a suit made with the first class?

 

[ZRH1]

Does anyone have experience with the mill Lanifico Rogna/their wsl solaros/wool silk cloths? My tailor introduced some bunches to me and the colors seem be quite unique

View attachment 2161013
View attachment 2161015

I am very interested in these, contacted Rogna in Italian and they told they would get back to me, but to no avail until now. Is your tailor in Italy?