TopCoat by Kilgour RTW

[gamblor]

I have been looking for a topcoat and was really struck by this Kilgour from their RTW line. It's a charcoal wool/cashmere blend, waterproof, 3/4 length, with a slim fit and just one button. After customs and carriage it would end up a little over $2k. The main thing I noticed and like about it is the 1 Button closure on narrower lapels which gives a lower stance and more open quarters.

I haven't seen this style anywhere else and wanted opinions on how versatile and lasting it would be, in particular:

Would it work over a sweater or shirts almost like a sportcoat? It would be just right for San Francisco weather year round and a way to add style to any plain outfit.

To occasionally wear over grey and navy suits?

What is Kilgours quality?

If it is a classic look and would remain so?

 

[alebrady]

i am sure you will get many other opinions but the notion of a 1btn overcoat just strikes me as completely contrived. the whole point of a coat is warmth and/or protection - therefore, i would imagine one would want to button the thing or at least not have so much torso exposed above the button!

i think its really sad the direction this venerable firm is taking - more akin to fashion than style (to me)

sorry for the rant

on the plus side, the cut of the coat looks quite modern in a minimalist way - but i dont think i would call this look a classic one

 

[Hard2Fit]

I agree with the above post (rant and all).
Its a beautiful coat though.
IMHO very Prada-looking.
I know next to nothing about Prada though.

 

[literasyme]

I think it would work in a range of circumstances, from totally informal (but cool) to business settings, but not in a conservative environment. It's not a very versatile coat, IMHO, but very, very nice -- despite the fact that as an overcoat, it's indeed a little silly. Then again, you don't live in a particularly cold climate, so perhaps for SF, it'll be alright. Style-wise, I think it's great, though might look more than a little dated in a few years.

 

[yfyf]

It's a very nice coat, but I think it may be a bit unsuitable over a suit. (no pun intended)

Better off wearing it casually, like an elongated sportcoat.

 

[literasyme]

Actually -- yes, on second glance, I agree. It's cut rather too slimly to fit comfortably over a jacket, I think, and if you size up so you can wear it over a suit, it'll lose its sleek line when worn casually.

 

[flatfront]

I like it alot as a jacket worn casually but as others have said it's not one to be worn over a suit. A nice coat that will keep you warm if paired with a sweater and scalf to set it off.

 

[savillerowfan]

Well I'm going to throw the cat amongst the pigeons. I purchased the coat today and although the points above are very fair - I do not agree. I tried the coat on both with and without suit jacket. In fact, it works quite well with suit jackets too. It is a fitted coat but with plenty of space such that with a 'modern cut' two or one button suit (which also tends to be tapered) you do not lose the lines. I tried it with a Kilgour suit and also the Lanvin suit which I was wearing.

It is considered more a rain coat than a heavy winter wearing overcoat and described as a 'waterproof coat' by Kilgour. It is 90% wool and 10% cashmere. So perhaps we should consider it a 'woolen mac'. I travel a lot on business around the UK and overseas and for me its perfect in that it is light enough to wear over a suit to add an extra layer of warmth but without making you sweat while in transit in a car or train or subway etc.... Also, unless its extremely cold (ie sub zero with minus 10/20 windchill) which you never really get in the UK - then it is more common to leave overcoats unbuttoned over a suit and this one sits quite nicely both open or closed. The design also means that you do not need to carry another coat for a 'smart casual look' in the evenings.

The biggest dilemma is what length to have it as I am 5'6 tall. The pictures are obviously from a tall model and the coat looks deceptively shorter than in real life. it is difficult to have the coat midway between calf and knee as the proportions won't work if the length of the coat below the button is less than above the button. I've gone for an inch/two above the knee.

I accept the styling is probably more contemporary than traditional, but I think the supberb cut and classic tailoring finishes will ensure this coat is more timeless than one thinks, especially with a suit, briefcase and scarf. Again, the photo showing the jacket with Jeans and a T shirt/sweater probably doesn't help peoples perceptions. For those new to Kilgour....the point to note about their last and current RTW collections is that the clothes are quite 'thin' i.e. part lined suit jackets etc. The reason is to enable more layering - thankfully this coat is fully lined.

Finally, the finish is excellent....concealed functioning buttons on the cuff....cloth is curved around the inside pockets....structured and vented lining to keep the lines, and amazingly soft wool. Anyway....apologies for long response, but I will give an update after I have worn it for a few months. Frankly, it is one of the best made overcoats I have seen lately - apart from some Zegna examples.

 

[gamblor]

Thanks for the nice review. Do you know if it is on sale right now?

 

[GuidoWongolini]

Originally Posted by alebrady

i am sure you will get many other opinions but the notion of a 1btn overcoat just strikes me as completely contrived. the whole point of a coat is warmth and/or protection - therefore, i would imagine one would want to button the thing or at least not have so much torso exposed above the button!

i think its really sad the direction this venerable firm is taking - more akin to fashion than style (to me)

sorry for the rant

on the plus side, the cut of the coat looks quite modern in a minimalist way - but i dont think i would call this look a classic one
+1

Originally Posted by yfyf

It's a very nice coat, but I think it may be a bit unsuitable over a suit. (no pun intended)

Better off wearing it casually, like an elongated sportcoat.
+1

Originally Posted by gamblor

Thanks for the nice review. Do you know if it is on sale right now?
- yes, the Kilgour RTW went on sale about a month ago.
- FWIW I also tried it on, I liked the cut & the quality but the 1B just bugged me..

 

[gamblor]

Does anyone know where to find this for sale? I wrote to Kilgour and was told it had sold out. I know other stores stock it but none are in the US.

 

[savillerowfan]

Hi....it is still on sale. I bought it in Harvey Nics in London and got a 50% discount. But it can also be purchased from the website below. They have about 30% discount.

PS...I did struggle with the 1 button for all of the logical and emotional reasons above and it took me 90mins to make up my mind (including going for some lunch and coming back) but its does close fairly well. Also, I made up my mind if the single button doesn't work - I'll just ask a tailor to insert a few more.

http://www.matchesfashion.com/

 

[savillerowfan]

PS....you need to click the tab that says 'sale' and then Kilgour is under the designers