Thom Browne English made shoes quality

[aket]

I found on eBay a pair of Thom Browne made in England black LWB shoes with the RWB ribbon with very little apparent prior wear. On very first wear within an hour one of the heels came off; the nails through the sole penetrated the heel less than 1/8". After pro repair to nail on heels, on the second wear within two hours the entire leather sole came unglued/split off from the cardboard welt; same shoe. I was surprised that the welt was cardboard and that the sole attached to the shoe only by glue at the edge. I had thought these shoes were made by Trickers and were quality made shoes. Does anyone have more knowledge of the Thom Browne English made LWB shoes?

 

[zippyh]

Early ones were Trickers but then switched to Sanders.

 

[aket]

Does the white tag provide a clue? and the real leather stamp... l read on the forum that is a Sander's mark.