The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[Kuro]

 

[DWFII]



Oh I should explain that our family owned a custom shoe shop from the 70's to 90's while my father was in Milan. We made a name for ourselves catering to diplomats and for exports. So I know there are just ancient inefficient designs that need to be updated in classic shoes.

I disagree...I think most high end and bespoke makers would disagree. Rubber outsoles have been around since at least the last quarter of the 19th century. So shoemakers have had, at minimum, 100+/- years to evaluate rubber outsoles and compare them to the qualities and characteristics that leather outsoles bring to the mix.

And almost universally--the high end makers (as well as consumers) have preferred leather and rejected rubber except for the most utilitarian applications.

There is, in modern society, the notion that efficiency trumps any aspirations of quality or excellence. And ought to. That speed is the standard by which all worth is measured. It is so prevalent we see it in food processing, education, government, medicine, and social media --hell, people have a hard time thinking, even, in more than 144 characters.

What's the old saying?--"There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse (quicker) , and sell a little more cheaply. (John Ruskin) The only caveat is that things that are made with less human input and less care...and that generally translates into faster and more cheaply...almost always rise in price back to the level of better quality when that better quality has been driven out of the consciousness of the consumer.

Ancient designs and Traditions are with us because they have stood the test of time--they aren't contingent on subjective evaluations embodied in such concepts as "inefficient," "uncomfortable," etc..

This is particularly true when you understand that it is primarily the fit of the shoe and the quality/nature of the insole that determine whether a shoe is uncomfortable or not. If the shoe is well fit, and the insole a material that will take and retain a decent footbed, the outsole will not affect comfort unless it is occlusive and/or will not itself accommodate to the foot.

--

 

[sstomcat]



G&G

Goyser is un-refined and the side seam plain ugly.

 

[chogall]

Goyser is un-refined and the side seam plain ugly.

Norwegian sewn construction different than goyser construction. Goyser/goiser is an welted construction but norwegian sewn has no welt.

The side seam for my pair isn't the most good looking I've seen but it does its job.

 

[sstomcat]



Norwegian sewn construction different than goyser construction. Goyser/goiser is an welted construction but norwegian sewn has no welt.

The side seam for my pair isn't the most good looking I've seen but it does its job.

Good that it works for you, that's what matters. I'm wondering why they choose to do a side seam and make it so obvious instead of the more traditional/common back seam. Probably a style issue.

The Norwegian stitching really pops out perhaps that's how you intended it to be.

 

[bengal-stripe]



I'm wondering why they choose to do a side seam and make it so obvious instead of the more traditional/common back seam. Probably a style issue.

It's not an (off-centre) side seam, but a full (heel) counter. There is the same seam on the inside and outside.

http://gazianogirling.tumblr.com/

I do believe a counter is a good idea for a Norwegian (style) shoe as it balances the apron front and, by adding heft to the heel, doesn't make the shoe too front-heavy.

 

[sstomcat]



It's not an (off-centre) side seam, but a full (heel) counter. There is the same seam on the inside and outside.

http://gazianogirling.tumblr.com/

I do believe a counter is a good idea for a Norwegian (style) shoe as it balances the apron front and, by adding heft to the heel, doesn't make the shoe too front-heavy.

Ahh.... thanks for the pictures, that explains it.

 

[chogall]



Good that it works for you, that's what matters. I'm wondering why they choose to do a side seam and make it so obvious instead of the more traditional/common back seam. Probably a style issue.

The Norwegian stitching really pops out perhaps that's how you intended it to be.

Yes, G&G has done it exactly like what I've specified, including the counter/side seam, the stitching, and double sole. It was a full heal counter, not side seam. Besides, if it's going to be a side seam, I would put them at the inside not outside.

I did not intend to have this pair as a "refined" pair of shoes; it's casual and somewhat rugged for my unrefined self.

 

[sstomcat]



Yes, G&G has done it exactly like what I've specified, including the counter/side seam, the stitching, and double sole. It was a full heal counter, not side seam. Besides, if it's going to be a side seam, I would put them at the inside not outside.

I did not intend to have this pair as a "refined" pair of shoes; it's casual and somewhat rugged for my unrefined self.

Fair enough,understand.

 

[SoGent]

I did not intend to have this pair as a "refined" pair of shoes; it's casual and somewhat rugged for my unrefined self.

good looking shoe you did there

 

[Hirsh]

My most comfortable boots ever...more bespoke boots planned this week, more John Lobb of St James planned for next year...

 

[Hirsh]

My Gaziano and Girling back calf brogues, beautiful but very heavy as they have a double rubber soles, and will probably outlive me.,:

 

[chogall]

What happened to the bespoke trees?

 

[PCK1]

 

[Son Of Saphir]



G&G

Perfect G&G chogall. G&G do side inseam more good than with Luk cha pair. It look good here.