Quality Italian Shoes Appreciation

[Noblekostas]

So, given that there are multiple threads about Bespoke Shoes, certain brands, the more recent Chinese thread as well as the asian high end ones, I thought I would maybe create a similar thread for their Italian counterparts.

Now, I didn't want to call it High End because the line is too thin at certain levels, so I preferred quality. Which for me starts around the Enzo Bonafe mark. Italian shoemaking and style has influenced me and my wardrobe a lot and in fact I am moving there in a few months to study proper shoemaking.

So I can start with a few pairs I own from different makers:

Stefano Bemer Tradizione T6456 Wingtip Balmoral in Brown Museum Calf

Superb looking shoes and very well finished. On the S Last which has a very nice soft square shape. Narrow last, advise half a size up from your regular UK. Fits me extremely well. I find their leather not the best I have seen for $2000 though. The tannery is Zonta and the leather seems to saturate very quickly, making tougher to apply wax and polish to perfection for me (I am not great at mirror polish though).

Fully handmade though, but I think the Classica Collection at $700 less might be better "value".

Stefano Bemer was a master shoemaker that passed away in 2012 (iir) and the brand name carried over to Scuola del Cuoio. This is where I will study.

Paolo Scafora Norwegian Double Monk Boots

One of my favorites. It's on the R Last with a nice almond shape, a leather sole and phenomenal leather. The color is Antiqued Vietri and is a dark brown with certain plum/reddish hints depending on the light.

I sized down half from my regular UK and they fit very well. Most Scafora Lasts run larger and wider.

Expect non-MTO shoes from Paolo Scafora to run between $1200-$1600 depending on construction.

By far my favorite brand stylistically but it's absolutely not for everyone's taste. He does the Norwegian stitch "better than anyone" aesthetically in my opinion.

RTW shoes are hand welted and hand lasted with a machine stitched sole.

Antonio Meccariello Navy Hastatus II

My joint favorite shoemaker is probably "Uncle" Antonio. Also from Naples like Paolo, he makes exquisite Bespoke and RTW/MTO shoes with different varying lines.

My pair is a navy calf adelaide oxford with a pin grain U throat and a medallion on the Chisel 2 last.

Sizing was a little more difficult as some people take it true to size, others take half a size up. It is a little narrow on the toe box indeed. If you MTO, it might be worth getting an E width.

These were a clearance pair sitting for a while so the leather was a bit dry and not the best looking, but that was 3 years ago and Antonio keeps improving his pairs all the time.

Mario Bemer (incoming)

Stefano's brother is such a nice man. We have been communicating and keeping in touch for a while and he is designing a pair for me.

Oops! Don't confuse Mariobemer.com with him. It was a workshop he set up after leaving SB and shortly after left to create his current brand "Mario Bemer USA". He mostly makes Bespoke and some MTO/MTM pairs apparently.

He is making me a pair of Chukkas (or split toe, tbd) in russian replica leather and norwegian stitching.

Here's a draft: