The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[RyanM2]

This is my second Proper Cloth shirt; it's been worn and washed for about a year and I think I've got the fit down pretty good.

The only thing I notice, is that there is a little horizontal roll/crease underneath the yoke, that you can see in this photo. Is that something that can be fixed by adjusting for posture or shoulder slope? I don't think it is shoulder slope, because there are no lines along the front (the usual indicator of shoulder slope). But it may be posture, because you can also see that there is a very slight roll behind the collar. I hope it's not shoulder/yoke width or chest width, because I think those measurements are pretty good.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

first wear for new Epaulet/Southwick suit after getting the suit back from the tailor:

I'm thinking two things:

1. I want to have my tailor give it a little more waist suppression. Compared to my other Southwick jackets, the waist here is only a half inch wider (laid flat, so an inch overall), but I think it will make a difference in terms of opening up the quarters a little bit so that there isn't as much overlap below the buttoning point.

2. I normally do 2" cuffs on my trousers but opted for a slanted plain hem this time. I had my tailor leave in extra fabric in case I changed my mind and I think I have. Given my long legs, I think cuffs are still the way to go for me.

Thoughts?

for comparison sake, here is one of my other Southwick suits (this one is a 34R whereas the charcoal one above is 1" longer in the body):

 

[seejulius]

@Gavinband - In regards to the shirt, I would say the PTP shoulder come in .25 each side considering the slope in your shoulders.

 

[seejulius]

• @A Guy from Shanghai Good find, but may want to return that jacket, they are a lot of things that need to fixed on jacket. From the PTP, Sleeve Circumference, Stomach, and Chest. I could further explain if you would like just send me a message.
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@yyztraveler Solid suit color! I am not sure you said you have forward posture, but your posture is pretty backward. Your arms are also slightly backward causing the rippling effect when your arms are straight down (this is inevitable for your body when purchasing RTW clothing.) The stomach needs to be opened up 1/4"-1/2" so it doesn't pull as much. Sleeves should be +1/4" longer it a little too high above your wrist. You also have pretty sloped shoulders from what i can tell from this jacket, not sure if this is MTM, but i would recommend going custom.

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• @parkman24 gorgeous jacket! The jacket and sleeves need to be shortened, but with the patch pockets be careful with shortening the jacket. Like @VirgilVerne for RTW that is as good as it gets.

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• @StanleyVanBuren great look! do not take in the waist of the jacket any more it will break too much and look sloppy. I love the cuffs, just taper the circumference of the trouser -1/2", then take up the trouser in the front only -1/4" this may be the look you are looking for.

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@RyanM2 I wouldn't stress that small imperfection, I can not diagnose that from that photo.

disclosure: most importantly be comfortable. I may make suits for a living, but i am not the one wearing it. you are.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

• @StanleyVanBuren great look! do not take in the waist of the jacket any more it will break too much and look sloppy. I love the cuffs, just taper the circumference of the trouser -1/2", then take up the trouser in the front only -1/4" this may be the look you are looking for.

Thanks for the input but I think you misread my post. Asking about the charcoal suit posted above, not the navy one. The charcoal one has somewhat overlapping quarters and currently the pants have a slant hem with a slight break and no cuffs.

Either way I definitely do not want a super-tapered no-break high-water look.

 

[Ttailor]

I want to have my tailor give it a little more waist suppression. Compared to my other Southwick jackets, the waist here is only a half inch wider (laid flat, so an inch overall), but I think it will make a difference in terms of opening up the quarters a little bit so that there isn't as much overlap below the buttoning point.

Well taking the waist in is not the answer to crossing fronts, that is a neck point issue- short front balance which causes the fronts to cross.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Quote:
Ah, ok. Is there a recommended fix?

 

[yyztraveler]

While any of the issues you listed might be exacerbated by your shirt/posture/etc., the suit itself is simply a size too small. Jacket is too short (sleeves and length) and things are pulling - more shoulder extension would be totally fine and might clear up the divots, at least a bit. Pants aren't falling cleanly - if they fit in the waist, that's something a tailor can bring in easily if the next size up needs it.

What size is this and did you try one bigger? Do that before you let a tailor touch anything. This one isn't going to be worth the effort, I'm afraid.

It's a 44 and I'm 6 feet. Unfortunately it's been a while and I can't exchange. I'm also in the middle of losing weight so do you think it'd fit better in the future?

@yyztraveler Solid suit color! I am not sure you said you have forward posture, but your posture is pretty backward. Your arms are also slightly backward causing the rippling effect when your arms are straight down (this is inevitable for your body when purchasing RTW clothing.) The stomach needs to be opened up 1/4"-1/2" so it doesn't pull as much. Sleeves should be +1/4" longer it a little too high above your wrist. You also have pretty sloped shoulders from what i can tell from this jacket, not sure if this is MTM, but i would recommend going custom.

Gotcha. This is just RTW. Yeah I've been meaning to get some MTM or Bespoke. But bespoke is just too much for me personally. I know the term is abused, but do you think a good MTM from a reputed place like Brooks Brothers or smaller Spier and Mackay would solve many of these problems I have?

 

[seejulius]

@yyztraveler I would go Custom. MTM, Custom, and Bespoke are 3 completely different channels of menswear. Custom is reasonably price, probably less expensive than the SuSu suit you are currently wearing. Where are you located?

 

[GAU11]

Fit of these pants?

 

[yyztraveler]

@yyztraveler I would go Custom. MTM, Custom, and Bespoke are 3 completely different channels of menswear. Custom is reasonably price, probably less expensive than the SuSu suit you are currently wearing. Where are you located?

I know the difference between MTM and bespoke. So by custom you just mean these online places that do what's essentially MTM but create a pattern just for you right? I'm in Canada so I'm considering Spier and Mackay.

 

[jcmeyer]



I know the difference between MTM and bespoke. So by custom you just mean these online places that do what's essentially MTM but create a pattern just for you right? I'm in Canada so I'm considering Spier and Mackay.

I've never heard the term custom have its own unique classification separate from MTM or Bespoke.

 

[llamaone]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Fit of these pants?

Do you really think anyone can properly diagnose fit issues from this crappy pic? You need to post clear, full length pics of the front and rear, and possibly one from the side as well.

But from what I can tell, the fit is obviously not great on those pants: pocket flare (too tight), some creasing and folding at the fork, probably a very mess backside, etc.

 

[GAU11]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Fit of these pants?

Do you really think anyone can properly diagnose fit issues from this crappy pic? You need to post clear, full length pics of the front and rear, and possibly one from the side as well.

But from what I can tell, the fit is obviously not great on those pants: pocket flare (too tight), some creasing and folding at the fork, probably a very mess backside, etc.

Maybe they are, but at least I don't have a stick up ******.

 

[llamaone]



Maybe they are, but at least I don't have a stick up ******.

Excuse you?

Look, I'm just being frank. If you want a useful critique, then post better photos. Go back and read the original post of this thread for instructions on taking proper pics.

And you basically posted a crotch shot for strangers on the internet and solicited feedback. Get some thicker skin if you can't handle less than flowery feedback.