the profoundly unofficial I Sarti Italiani thread

[taxgenius]

Sure. If you line up an appt, you can get measured, and look over books of cloth - Salvo will almost assuredly have Loro Piana/Draper's/Solbiati , perhaps Cacciopoli, VBC. You can pick something, and discuss styling details - SB versus DB, etc.

You are then looking to line up another fitting or two - Salvo will likely be back in ~Oct. I would tend to think then next spring, on your second fitting you may be good to go, or, perhaps another dial-in will occur, and they can ship you your garment.

I am not sure bringing your own cloth makes a ton of sense unless you are looking for British mills. It isn't going to save you any real time in terms of time to delivery of your garment. I have brought my own cloth for most of my I Sarti stuff, but I am a weirdo who had already stocked some stuff up.

The price difference in bringing your own cloth is substantial.

 

[circumspice]

For the merchants Salvo carries?

 

[taxgenius]

For the merchants Salvo carries?

Yes.

 

[classicalthunde]

Received my first two commissions from I Sarti his weekend. Pictured below is a S/S Caccioppoli WSL blend with some ascot 4-ply trousers in taupe (I didn’t bother putting on suspenders for the fitting). The other order was a DWW summer tweed 3 patch pocket suit (forgot to request a snapshot of that one at the fitting).

I opted for the signature roomier drape cut and spalla mappina extended shoulder effect. First thought was, these are super comfortable and had a room for movement. They were also remarkably lighter than my commissions from other makers. I’m sure part of this is the fact that the fabrics are 8/9oz, but I feel like part of it is also the Italian construction.

Over all very happy with the results after almost 3 years in the making thanks to the pandemic. Now to think about my next commission…

 

[Mr. Six]

sacafotos and I have an appointment at 2 on Thursday. Anyone here got the 1 or 3 slot? Wondering who else might be around that afternoon.

 

[brillopad]

sacafotos and I have an appointment at 2 on Thursday. Anyone here got the 1 or 3 slot? Wondering who else might be around that afternoon.

I'm usually in the area if you'd like to meet up after!

 

[emptym]

^Hope you all have a good time on Thurs. I just got back from my appt. Always a pleasure to see Peter and Salvo. Picked up the Yorkshire tweed and looked for a pant fabric that's made of wool or a wool blend but has the appearance of a light, heathered oatmeal color. I dream of something that looks like natural linen but performs like wool and is machine washable.

In any case, it'd be like this Drapers flannel below, but for summer:

I highly recommend this Drapers flannel, btw. Those are Salvo's above, but I have a pair that's over 10 yrs old, are super versatile, and have proven pretty durable.

Second thing I'm considering is a patterned summer jacket in a loud color, maybe one of these:

 

[circumspice]

@emptym

I suspect this Fox City is warmer than you are looking for:

Warm Taupe Fox City

Warm Taupe Fox City CODE: FC32 WEIGHT: 290/320g - 10/11oz TYPE: Worsted Fox City, the quintessential three season bunch. We have colours covered with this extensive range of hues including 5 shades of green, from olive to sage, 14 shades of brown, from camel to chocolate as well as some brighter...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Edit:

Light Grey Melange Plain Weave

Fox Air Light Grey Melange Plain Weave CODE: FA12 WEIGHT: 285/315g or 10/11oz TYPE: Crisp, Dry Worsted This cloth is a plain weave on a base of light grey melange to give a lively appearance to the colourtone of the cloth. Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[Mr. Six]

I'm usually in the area if you'd like to meet up after!

Cool! I see the forecast suggests that we might be in a bit a deluge on Thursday, so maybe not the best weather. I'll DM you.

^Hope you all have a good time on Thurs. I just got back from my appt. Always a pleasure to see Peter and Salvo. Picked up the Yorkshire tweed and looked for a pant fabric that's made of wool or a wool blend but has the appearance of a light, heathered oatmeal color. I dream of something that looks like natural linen but performs like wool and is machine washable.

In any case, it'd be like this Drapers flannel below, but for summer: View attachment 1901063
I highly recommend this Drapers flannel, btw. Those are Salvo's above, but I have a pair that's over 10 yrs old, are super versatile, and have proven pretty durable.

Second thing I'm considering is a patterned summer jacket in a loud color, maybe one of these:
View attachment 1901081
View attachment 1901069
View attachment 1901071
View attachment 1901061

If you find a summer oatmeal with wool attributes, let me know. I've been on the lookout for that as well. I did find this recently, which with the mohair content, might work. I'll probably order a sample from Harrisons.

MERSOLAIR 54% MOHAIR/46% LINEN - Harrisons

280gms Width 146cms 54% Mohair/46% Linen

www.harrisons1863.com

Of the jacket samples, I'd go with 1 or 4.

 

[emptym]

Thanks, @circumspice and @Mr. Six. That Harrisons in particular looks great. If it's pretty opaque, it'd be perfect. 4 would be the safest and probably where I'd go. Would love to see it made up.

Here's a pic of the Yorkshire tweed I picked up.

Looks a little darker than irl. Peter took a pic at his place that I hope he'll post. It's definitely softer than W. Bill or even Breanish tweeds of about the same weight. With Salvo's soft, roomy construction it feels the most sweater-like of all the jackets I have.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Would anyone be so kind as to send me the latest CMT price list for ISI/Salvo?

 

[MarxismWinsAgain]

Going to get fitted for my first sport coat with ISI this autumn. Does anyone have experiences with their bespoke shirts?

 

[Nilles]

I'm visiting Palermo for a first order this August. Do people have suggestions for fabric bunches commonly carried, and is it common / possible to bring fabric for a first order?

 

[circumspice]

@Nilles CMT is absolutely possible - 3/4 of my orders with Salvo have been CMT.

Salvo will have Zegna, Draper's books, perhaps Loro Piana and Solbiati. I don't seem to recall Cacciopoli. Nothing English

August may be a tricky month in Italy, however - are you sure they will be open? That is the month where a plan like "Spend 4 days in Palermo and have measurements and then a first fitting followup appt." may be completely unviable due to shipping delays on ordered fabric or labor availability

 

[Nilles]

@Nilles CMT is absolutely possible - 3/4 of my orders with Salvo have been CMT.

Salvo will have Zegna, Draper's books, perhaps Loro Piana and Solbiati. I don't seem to recall Cacciopoli. Nothing English

August may be a tricky month in Italy, however - are you sure they will be open? That is the month where a plan like "Spend 4 days in Palermo and have measurements and then a first fitting followup appt." may be completely unviable due to shipping delays on ordered fabric or labor availability

Thank you for the prompt reply!

I'm aware of the troubles associated with traveling in Italy in August and hoping to find open shops.
I had email contact with them for an appointment in early August and that seems to be fine. I was not planning on already being fitted during the same trip, though that would have probably been a better idea.
I'm passing by Calzoleria Carlino (Modena) for a shoe order before traveling down to Palermo for Sarti Italiani.
I hope to plan subsequent fittings for both shoes and suits during future trips, where I'll most likely stay in either Napoli or Rome. Calzoleria Carlino also does fittings from a distance though, so perhaps I'll only end up travelling to Palermo in the future.

Claudio of I Sarti Italiani quoted "at least 2 appointments" to me without specifying multiple fittings, so I am also unsure as to how they would plan this order. In my initial inquiry I asked them about traveling in Europe, distance orders and planning a trip. I'm assuming they seek to make the order process as accommodating as possible for me by stating a minimum of 2 appointments as opposed to more.

I also considered Sartoria Solito in Napoli for a jacket, but I have not yet heard from them. I'm also open to any other suggestions for good Italian tailors for jackets up to approx. 2500 euros.