The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

[Fuuma]



I don't know. I hear you and I have a few barrel cuff shirts and one button down collar shirt. For whatever reason, even if they're technically correct with more casual outfits, I almost never reach for them. I just prefer French cuffs to such an extent that I don't enjoy wearing anything else as much. If you wanted to tone down french cuffs a little bit, you could always wear silk knots in lieu of metal cufflinks.

This is a matter of taste so I don't really care but spread collars worn casually (sportcoat=already casual) are ugly, without a tie they're abominable.

 

[TheFoo]

Another thing: not only is this whole OneShirt strategy not so radical in the grand sartorial scheme of things as many might imagine, but I've been already been practicing it for years. More than half of my shirts are identical, light blue, spread collar, French cuffed shirts. They just aren't chambray. If you count my solid blue OCBDs, then fully three fourths of my shirts are solid blue. The rest are a variety of bengal stripes (light blue and white, dark blue and white), and graph paper checks (which I never wear anymore).

Yet, nobody's ever criticized one of my outfits for having the wrong sort of shirt.

 

[TheFoo]



This is a matter of taste so I don't really care but spread collars worn casually (sportcoat=already casual) are ugly, without a tie they're abominable.

Yes, worn fully on its own (but with pants, not mmkn style), a spread collar is very sub-optimal. That is partially why am still open to doing a buttondown collar. However, when worn with a jacket (including odd ones), I think a spread collar always looks great. A buttondown is riskier if only because it is much harder to execute right.

 

[aravenel]

I'm with you on having the majority of the wardrobe be solid light blue shirts. I'm also with you on getting it dialed in just right and then ordering a boatload of shirts.

What I have more of a problem with is the stylistic choices on those shirts--particularly the cuff. Seems strange to me outside of formalwear. I understand that you have your reasons for it, but I would certainly hesitate to say that it should be the basis of *the* One-Shirt. Perhaps *your* One-Shirt, but I'd imagine most people would be much better served with a button or French cuff.

And yeah, you'd need at least some other shirts--button collar, OCBD, at least one solid white, and a couple of stripes.

 

[Fuuma]



Yes, worn fully on its own (but with pants, not mmkn style, a spread collar is very sub-optimal. That is partially why am still open to doing a buttondown collar. However, when worn with a jacket (include odd ones), I think a spread collar always looks great. A buttondown is riskier if only because it is much harder to execute right.

A regular point collar, which can be worn both with and without a tie and with a sportscoat or a suit would be much more useful. Now I dunno it's just a thought experiment as the "oneshirt" will make up most of your shirt rotation but leaves place for a few different ones.

I have around 26-30 shirts, a few of them are weird stuff I rarely wear (formal, black,paisley etc basically weird or specialized stuff I acquired along the way)

Most of the rest are white or blue (with 3-4 striped ones with a white base), oxfords or poplins and either button down or point. Not oneshirt but not that far....

 

[TheFoo]

For my buttondown fix, I may do as others suggest and one day turn to Kamakura or the like. But, yes, I will eventually need them if I don't get them now.

 

[TheFoo]



A regular point collar, which can be worn both with and without a tie and with a sportscoat or a suit would be much more useful. Now I dunno it's just a thought experiment as the "oneshirt" will make up most of your shirt rotation but leaves place for a few different ones.

I really despise point collars. I never think they are flattering on anyone. It just looks too closed-up.

You are right, though--it's not as if I will have zero other shirts to wear. The OneShirt will just be the main player.

 

[msulinski]

I really despise point collars. I never think they are flattering on anyone. It just looks too closed-up.

You are right, though--it's not as if I will have zero other shirts to wear. The OneShirt will just be the main player.

I came to the same realization myself recently. I can't stand the closed-up V formation around my tie. I dumped all my point-collar shirts. Fortunately, I didn't have many.

 

[archibaldleach]



I really despise point collars. I never think they are flattering on anyone. It just looks too closed-up.

+1.

 

[Renault78law]

Couple of comments. I think it's inconsistent that you like french cuff shirts (which are more troublesome to fasten than a barrel cuff) and then say you don't want a gauntlet button because it is too much bother. Then, if the clackity clack of bothers you when typing or whatever, I will venture to say that it is the cufflink that is the cause of the discomfort, not the gauntlet button. If your keyboard looks anything like mine, the place where your wrist rests coincides with the cufflink, not the gauntlet. Personally, I prefer a gauntlet button on FC, and none on barrel cuffs. Buttoning the gauntlet provides just enough tension to keep FC folded sans link. I have no idea why that matters to me in practice (because it should not), but it does. Also, the gaping issue, for the reason Manton explained, which I never realized until I saw myself in a mirror with elbows on the table. It was like looking up my own skirt.

I appreciate the idea of OneShirt, but with single cuffs, that's just crazy. It's the least versatile option and is rarely the optimal choice, as you often put it. Most of the details are stylistic, but I will say that I have a strong aversion to back darts. I love the idea in concept, but in execution, it often looks like a woman's shirt. I realize most iGents never take off their coat in public, but on the off chance you do, I think it makes a difference. Since darts are not really functional, and aren't aesthetically pleasing, I would dispense with them.

 

[aravenel]

Many point collars may not be great, but many people wear spread collars that are far too wide for their face, IMO.

 

[chogall]

Fraying at the fifth or sixth cycle it's incredible!

I think that fine clothes can last longer only if handwashed at home (that is the standard in Italy)
Even the finer batista fabric should last at least 50-80 cycle if handwashed and natural dried.

I never had a shirt handwashed frayed anywhere except in the inside of the collar but was caused by the beard.

+1. Even el cheapo Borrellis don't start fraying at the 5-6th cycle... And always machine washed (no bags), hung dry and hand ironed.

My Matuozzo shirts are truly on their last legs. I can no longer wear them into a work environment without feeling conspicuously sprezzed out. The fraying has reached catastrophic levels. The collar and cuff edges are fully worn through to the interlining and some shirts are even fully worn through where the collar folds over.

So, I'm taking the opportunity to embark on a new project. Since I'm changing shirtmakers
(largely because I can't justify Matuozzo-level prices to myself anymore),
I figure now is a good time to re-think my entire approach to shirting. Sacred cows will be slaughtered.

Like the OneShoe, there will be a OneShirt. Similarly, it will not be absolutely monolithic, but will certainly play a dominant, foundational role in my wardrobe.

My present state of thinking on the concept:

1. Light blue chambray cloth
2. Spread collar
3. Single cuffs (yes, you read that right)
4. No front placket
5. No gauntlet buttons
6. No back pleats
7. Back darts

The second and third elements are somewhat up for debate, though more the latter than the former. The only other collar I'd consider is a buttondown, but I'm not all that confident in cajoling Geneva to make me one that is just right. Also, it's less versatile to me, as the OneShirt would be worn with a tie and jacket ninety percent of the time. As for the cuffs: I am partial to links as I generally find well-fitting barrel cuffs too constricting, yet interested in something lighter than a double (French) cuff. I understand the single cuff is associated with formal wear, but I'm not sure it can't be adapted to daily business dress. I'm probably convinced one way or another on the matter, but please feel free to opine.

Here's the real lynchpin: if someone can convince me that Geneva is capable of making an ideal buttondown collar with a bell-shaped roll, and can instruct me on how to instruct them, I will be very, very tempted to go that route. In that event, the linked cuffs will have to go altogether, and I'll switch to rounded barrel cuffs. Incidentally, such a shirt would replace my somewhat-but-not-entirely-successful modified OCBD from Brooks Brothers MTM. An added benefit.

In any event, a spread-collared shirt (with linked cuffs) will be essential at one point. I will probably add a blue-and-white bengal stripe and a large gingham to the foundational chambray. If I wind up doing the chambray in a buttondown collar, I may add a light blue end-on-end to the spread-collared assortment. No more small checks or graph paper for me.
There it is. Thoughts?

Was last years bonus really that bad that you have to settle for a less pricy shirtmaker?

p.s., aside from the spread collar part, everything looks good... Single cuff choice is interesting as it can be worn both like a barrell cuff and a linked cuff.

 

[TheFoo]

Cheaper fabrics are not necessarily more fragile. Quite often the opposite is true. I am not the only one who has experienced Riva's delicate nature. And directly to your point: my old Borrelli shirts never frayed, yet the cloth is no doubt much cheaper and inferior. If you don't believe me, try Riva for yourself and come back in a year or two.

The Matuozzo prices are too high because I no longer receive the same level of product or service I once did, and because I now know how short the lifespan can be with fancy Italian shirtings.

 

[poorsod]

What is the rationale behind the darts? Are you not able to get an acceptable fit without darts? Or do you prefer darts as a matter of styling?

 

[RDiaz]

You guys don't get it.

Let's put it another way: most non-solid, non-blue shirts are hideous. Really awful. And if not intrinsically ugly, they are likely to be very ugly in wear. You guys can toy around with them and enjoy the "experimentation." I will sit back and scowl--in my perfect blue shirt.

I haven't been dressing in coat and tie for long, not even close to your nine years, but in this short period of time this has been my experience too. I've dumped all of my non-blue shirts.

It's either solid blue, dress stripes or bengal stripes for me now. And if I had to have a OneShirt, your idea sounds pretty good.

Some guys can pull off more "creative" shirts and look good in them, I won't deny it - but those are few exceptions....