The Constructive Criticism Thread

[in stitches]



Ed. I like flannels with corduroy.

Do not Urban Dictionary that, folks.

 

[kulata]

@in stitches what that fit needs is some disruption/interruption to break the matchiness of grey and brown. You can do like @jrd617 suggested by changing the tie and IMO dark green based tie will be excellent followed by dark navy based tie. Alternative is to leave everything as is and insert a pocket square in the aforementioned colors but that's going into the sprezzy territory.

 

[in stitches]

What I ended up doing was getting rid of the shoes, and the pants are relegated to beatyer wear. Not entirely because of this fit, but because the pants don't fit me well, and I wasn't getting enough use out of the shoes to justify having them sit around my closet.

I am honestly not looking to re-create anything about that ever again, it was just a poorly put together ensemble, and I don't think that it is salvageable in anyway. Perhaps it could be made passablewith a few adjustments. But outside of swapping most of the elements, which is essentially creating an entirely different fit, I don't think it will ever be good.

It was a learning experience. Part of my journey and my trial and error.

 

[heldentenor]

Soliciting your thoughts on this fit from a cold, windy morning (hence the gloves--I'm not headed out to dispose of a body).

My thoughts:

--Square and tie look a bit matchy, though the square's dominant color is actually blue.
--Trousers still could fit better in my "problem place": the three-four inches below the knee. FYI, Clags, these are the trousers that used to have almost a reverse taper, so that they looked "boot cut."
--I like the shoulders on this jacket (completely unstructured), but wish the buttoning point were just a bit higher or that the lapels were closer together.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Buttoning point higher? If anything I would go in the other direction. And jacket a bit longer maybe.

 

[heldentenor]

Yeah, unbel, I guess my problem is less the buttoning point and more the way that the lapel rolls to it. The lapel line seems less elegant than it could be.

 

[in stitches]

Personally, Id move on from the trousers, and I dont love the SC either, not in general, and not on you. Shirt is fine, so is PS and tie, but as you noted, they are too matchy, even for me.

 

[unbelragazzo]

You mean the way the lapels belly or that they're pressed right to the button? I like bellied lapels but they look better wider IMHO. And particularly good on peak lapels.

 

[heldentenor]

The bellying, which as you note seems out of proportion to the lapels. I suppose that lapel roll is tougher to control in an unstructured jacket.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Is that jacket actually unstructured or does it just not have shoulder padding? I would guess it still has a canvas

 

[heldentenor]

I think it's completely unstructured--when I pinch the lapel, all I feel are the front and back facings, no interlining.

 

[unbelragazzo]

It's falling very cleanly on the chest and shoulders if that's the case. You might be able to find a spot on the inside of the front of the jacket where you can see or feel inside to the guts of the jacket. That would give you an idea what's in there.

 

[heldentenor]

Personally, Id move on from the trousers, and I dont love the SC either, not in general, and not on you. Shirt is fine, so is PS and tie, but as you noted, they are too matchy, even for me.

Thanks for confirming my impressions, Stitchy. I think I have the wardrobe to move on from the trousers, but will probably have to keep this SC in rotation for a bit until I can scrounge up the funds for something a bit better.

 

[in stitches]

Any time.

Proper brown SC is a mini problem area for me too, I dont love the quarters on the one I have. That will probably be my next Panta adventure. Maybe for next Fall.

 

[heldentenor]

Any time.

Proper brown SC is a mini problem area for me too, I dont love the quarters on the one I have. That will probably be my next Panta adventure. Maybe for next Fall.

Curiosity question: how do you feel about donegal tweed in general?