TL/DR: I've recently lost enough weight that my current suits no longer fit well (down 2-3" coat and 4-5" waist, and I probably erred 'big' in buying many of them in the first place). Broad shouldered and very thick thighs proportionally, so "modern" "slim" cuts / flat trousers don't do well on me. While I can afford a couple of custom suits, I'm curious for any suggestions of less expensive separates or suits with more traditional full cuts
My non-OTR body:
-- 46 S (just barely S) / 38 S trousers with 27" inseam
-- 8" drop
-- big neck and shoulders
-- stocky thighs
-- short arms and legs
I hate to say I have an "athletic" build since I'm definitely overweight and not in any great shape. But relative to the typical guy with my BMI, I've got broad shoulders & chest, long torso, and proportionally less belly. Likewise, very thick thighs relative to my waist size.
With those proportions, OTR matched suits with typical 5 or 6 drop dont fit well and are just miserable given the trend to flat fronts and skinny leg/seat cuts
Separates can fix the 8" drop, but these days the "separates" lines from the major retailers are in modern/skinny cuts and the pants especially fit me very poorly.
I got a custom suit from Hemrajani (Divij) last year for about $1300 and I"m very happy with it -- have used them for shirts for years due to my oversized neck making OTR dress shirts impossible.. If I could afford to fill my closet at $1300 each I would just put in a big order when Divij is in town -- but I cant. My job is unusually formal relative to pay, sadly.
So, I'm wondering if any suggestions for less expensive options that could provide a larger drop, and a fuller cut and preferably pleated pants (or at least plenty of thigh room), ideally in Short versions.
I did try menssuitsseparates.com, which was promising! Their 100% wool suits from Hardwick come as separates, R/S/L, pleated pants option, traditional cut, at $400 each. Sadly, Hardwick is going out of business and despite what the website shows, in reality almost nothing from Hardwick is available (and will never be).
MSS convinced me to try their Harmony 50/50 blend with flat front trousers at $325, and while not as tight across the pants front as many suits today, the fit wasn't great, and the 50/50 fabric not great, so I'm inclined to return and keep looking.
I see MSS may have a Hickey Freeman separates line too, but at $950 per set I figure I might as well put out a couple hundred more for Hemrajani -- custom fitted and dozens of fabrics to choose from
On the forums, I mostly see negative reviews of the online MTM suit options under $1,000.
Any suggestions of retailers or manufacturers to try for suits that might work closer to $400-$600?
I do have a good local tailor, so I'm thinking if I can't get everything I want, "separates" might be the place to compromise as I suspect taking in the waist 2-3" on a fuller cut suit is an easier fix than dealing with a correct waist but skinny cut suit. Likewise, "short" seems fixable, especially since sleeves are a bigger issue than overall coat length for me, and sleeves reduction is easy. But advice on that welcome!
My non-OTR body:
-- 46 S (just barely S) / 38 S trousers with 27" inseam
-- 8" drop
-- big neck and shoulders
-- stocky thighs
-- short arms and legs
I hate to say I have an "athletic" build since I'm definitely overweight and not in any great shape. But relative to the typical guy with my BMI, I've got broad shoulders & chest, long torso, and proportionally less belly. Likewise, very thick thighs relative to my waist size.
With those proportions, OTR matched suits with typical 5 or 6 drop dont fit well and are just miserable given the trend to flat fronts and skinny leg/seat cuts
Separates can fix the 8" drop, but these days the "separates" lines from the major retailers are in modern/skinny cuts and the pants especially fit me very poorly.
I got a custom suit from Hemrajani (Divij) last year for about $1300 and I"m very happy with it -- have used them for shirts for years due to my oversized neck making OTR dress shirts impossible.. If I could afford to fill my closet at $1300 each I would just put in a big order when Divij is in town -- but I cant. My job is unusually formal relative to pay, sadly.
So, I'm wondering if any suggestions for less expensive options that could provide a larger drop, and a fuller cut and preferably pleated pants (or at least plenty of thigh room), ideally in Short versions.
I did try menssuitsseparates.com, which was promising! Their 100% wool suits from Hardwick come as separates, R/S/L, pleated pants option, traditional cut, at $400 each. Sadly, Hardwick is going out of business and despite what the website shows, in reality almost nothing from Hardwick is available (and will never be).
MSS convinced me to try their Harmony 50/50 blend with flat front trousers at $325, and while not as tight across the pants front as many suits today, the fit wasn't great, and the 50/50 fabric not great, so I'm inclined to return and keep looking.
I see MSS may have a Hickey Freeman separates line too, but at $950 per set I figure I might as well put out a couple hundred more for Hemrajani -- custom fitted and dozens of fabrics to choose from
On the forums, I mostly see negative reviews of the online MTM suit options under $1,000.
Any suggestions of retailers or manufacturers to try for suits that might work closer to $400-$600?
I do have a good local tailor, so I'm thinking if I can't get everything I want, "separates" might be the place to compromise as I suspect taking in the waist 2-3" on a fuller cut suit is an easier fix than dealing with a correct waist but skinny cut suit. Likewise, "short" seems fixable, especially since sleeves are a bigger issue than overall coat length for me, and sleeves reduction is easy. But advice on that welcome!