Suggestions for suit separates in traditional cuts under < 1000?

[profguy]

TL/DR: I've recently lost enough weight that my current suits no longer fit well (down 2-3" coat and 4-5" waist, and I probably erred 'big' in buying many of them in the first place). Broad shouldered and very thick thighs proportionally, so "modern" "slim" cuts / flat trousers don't do well on me. While I can afford a couple of custom suits, I'm curious for any suggestions of less expensive separates or suits with more traditional full cuts


My non-OTR body:


-- 46 S (just barely S) / 38 S trousers with 27" inseam


-- 8" drop


-- big neck and shoulders


-- stocky thighs


-- short arms and legs


I hate to say I have an "athletic" build since I'm definitely overweight and not in any great shape. But relative to the typical guy with my BMI, I've got broad shoulders & chest, long torso, and proportionally less belly. Likewise, very thick thighs relative to my waist size.


With those proportions, OTR matched suits with typical 5 or 6 drop dont fit well and are just miserable given the trend to flat fronts and skinny leg/seat cuts


Separates can fix the 8" drop, but these days the "separates" lines from the major retailers are in modern/skinny cuts and the pants especially fit me very poorly.


I got a custom suit from Hemrajani (Divij) last year for about $1300 and I"m very happy with it -- have used them for shirts for years due to my oversized neck making OTR dress shirts impossible.. If I could afford to fill my closet at $1300 each I would just put in a big order when Divij is in town -- but I cant. My job is unusually formal relative to pay, sadly.

So, I'm wondering if any suggestions for less expensive options that could provide a larger drop, and a fuller cut and preferably pleated pants (or at least plenty of thigh room), ideally in Short versions.

I did try menssuitsseparates.com, which was promising! Their 100% wool suits from Hardwick come as separates, R/S/L, pleated pants option, traditional cut, at $400 each. Sadly, Hardwick is going out of business and despite what the website shows, in reality almost nothing from Hardwick is available (and will never be).


MSS convinced me to try their Harmony 50/50 blend with flat front trousers at $325, and while not as tight across the pants front as many suits today, the fit wasn't great, and the 50/50 fabric not great, so I'm inclined to return and keep looking.


I see MSS may have a Hickey Freeman separates line too, but at $950 per set I figure I might as well put out a couple hundred more for Hemrajani -- custom fitted and dozens of fabrics to choose from


On the forums, I mostly see negative reviews of the online MTM suit options under $1,000.


Any suggestions of retailers or manufacturers to try for suits that might work closer to $400-$600?


I do have a good local tailor, so I'm thinking if I can't get everything I want, "separates" might be the place to compromise as I suspect taking in the waist 2-3" on a fuller cut suit is an easier fix than dealing with a correct waist but skinny cut suit. Likewise, "short" seems fixable, especially since sleeves are a bigger issue than overall coat length for me, and sleeves reduction is easy. But advice on that welcome!

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

I got a custom suit from Hemrajani (Divij) last year for about $1300 and I"m very happy with it -- have used them for shirts for years due to my oversized neck making OTR dress shirts impossible.. If I could afford to fill my closet at $1300 each I would just put in a big order when Divij is in town -- but I cant. My job is unusually formal relative to pay, sadly.

I think the main thing I'd focus on is that you don't need to refill your closet just like that. It's okay to take some time, start with a piece or two, work out to the wardrobe you want slowly. If you know you want some suits from here, and you can't afford five... you can buy one, and wait to find more.

On the forums, I mostly see negative reviews of the online MTM suit options under $1,000.

Any suggestions of retailers or manufacturers to try for suits that might work closer to $400-$600?

Styleforum is full of snobs, but even styleforum likes a couple of makers under $1,000. Suitsupply makes good MTM suits. They're not making your preferred cut... although there's a more relaxed cut coming, including fuller trousers. I'm excited to give them a try.

For ~$5-600, there are a few other MTM options out there... Are you NYC-based, or are you looking online, or what? Most cities don't have a ton of options at all.

Mix things up a bit. Try thrifting. Try luxeswap. Try a funky suit you found in that thrift shop that you weren't sure about, only wear once or twice a month, but you only paid $100 for it, and that makes you feel better about wearing the same 3-4 suits the rest of the month.

Are your current suits beyond tailoring? Are you selling them?

 

[profguy]

Thanks for the tip re Suitsupply, I have not gotten the sense they are a great choice for a late middle-age stocky guy in a very conservative work setting, but will keep my eye out for a fuller cut from them.

Not NYC but within easy driving distance of another major northeast city which Hemrajani visits regularly. So better than the average U.S. location for menswear stores, but not NYC / LA. I'd be happy to order online to get a decent suit, it doesn't have to be "bespoke" perfect and I dont have any special customizations I'm looking for (that said, if I'm paying for an in-person custom suit, I'll certainly take advantage of looking through fabric books vs just "gray" or "navy"). I've hesitated at full online-only for a suit given threads here and askandy suggesting online MTM often ends up worse than OTR with local alterations.

Good point about tailoring and I have been having some suits altered. That has worked well and I probably underestimate what my tailor can do. How much can suits reasonably be taken in? Worst case some trousers are now maybe 5-6" too big in the waist, with the coat maybe 1.5 sizes too big

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

Good point about tailoring and I have been having some suits altered. That has worked well and I probably underestimate what my tailor can do. How much can suits reasonably be taken in? Worst case some trousers are now maybe 5-6" too big in the waist, with the coat maybe 1.5 sizes too big

I would assume the trousers would be a problem, but the jackets might be fine... Either way, ask your tailor, and if they're really beyond saving, you can always sell them. Or save a couple in case you gain a little bit of weight back in the future (good luck keeping it off, but **** happens over the course of a few years). But I'm sure some poeple would spend good money for a suit of your quality, whether on eBay or Luxeswap or wherever you want to sell.