Shoulder Divots - Let's discuss

[57JoeFoMoPar]

Hey guys, pardon the newb questions, but I did a search and couldn't find the answers I'm looking for.

I know the dreaded "shoulder divot" must be avoided at all cost, especially after wading through the David Reeves/Bespoke thread. But what actually causes the shoulder divots? Is it the pitch of the arm? Height of the arm hole? Shoulder pads too big? Shoulders of the jacket too wide? Some combination of the above or none of the above? Is this something that can be tailored out of the jacket?

Personally, I have a hard time finding jackets OTR that fit. I know I'm an odd size (5'9", ~178 lbs, 32" waist), my shoulders are disproportionate to my size from years of playing hockey. I know a MTM jacket may well be the answer, but it's often prohibitively expensive. It would be nice to find one of the great jackets SF members here list in the classifieds and tweak it to my frame. Is there a specific measurement one can look for to tell if a jacket will have issues?

I'd like to hear your thoughts. Thanks

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by 57JoeFoMoPar

Is this something that can be tailored out of the jacket?

Yes.

- B

 

[57JoeFoMoPar]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Yes.


Thanks for the reply. OK, so what needs to be changed?

 

[Alias]

The photographer and your arm angle.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by 57JoeFoMoPar

Thanks for the reply. OK, so what needs to be changed?

Seriously?

If you are buying RTW, you have a tremendous luxury: the luxury of trying on the jacket and refusing to buy ones that have problems. So, the short answer is not to buy a jacket with fit issues requiring subsantial alterations. Pass and move on.

If you are addressing some local defiency of variety or quality of construction by buying things online without knowing how they fit, be prepared to buy and to then sell at a loss if the item does not fit you.

Wrong RTW shoulders can seldom be made right.


- B

 

[S. Able]

Hockey player ass creates even greater sartorial problems.

 

[apropos]

 

[EZETHATSME]

I have the same problem, wide shoulders from sports, and a narrow waist. Vox is right about trying things on. The main thing I've learned is find a jacket that fits well in the shoulders. After that, the waist can be supressed, and pants can be taken in and worked with to fit. But my understanding is that shoulders are the hardest things to alter, and expensive if done at all.

EZ

 

[DocHolliday]

If the shoulders don't fit or the chest is too tight, don't buy it. I think that's the secret to success with RTW.

 

[I. Gentantithesis]

Mumsy ductapes one of these special Deltoidmaxipads atop each me arms. Fills the dreaded
divotal cavity, instills confidence, one can face the day fearless of embarassingly imperfect raiment.

 

[Chips]

Originally Posted by I. Gentantithesis

Mumsy ductapes one of these special Deltoidmaxipads atop each me arms. Fills the dreaded
divotal cavity, instills confidence, one can face the day fearless of embarassingly imperfect raiment.

And when you buy these, you get to go sailing, horseback riding, shopping at the mall with girlfriends, play with puppies...... what else happens in those commercials when the chick buys new pads?

 

[apropos]

Originally Posted by Chips

And when you buy these, you get to go sailing, horseback riding, shopping at the mall with girlfriends, play with puppies...... what else happens in those commercials when the chick buys new pads?

Don't forget the mysterious clear, light blue liquid.

 

[CunningSmeagol]

It is typically caused, as I understand it, by not cutting the sleevehead wide enough. The human shoulder that is too wide front to back (deep) will stretch the fabric front to back, causing a horizontal indentation (divet). The reason, again as I understand it, that most makers cut the sleevehead too narrow is that most jacket hangers are narrower in depth than human shoulders, and adding fabric there would make the shoulder look too full and sloppy on the sales rack.

Read that on the board. Can't remember where.

The DR jacket looks like it has a different problem, though.

 

[57JoeFoMoPar]

Cunning, thanks. Those are the kind of answers I'm looking for. Shoulder depth makes sense