Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC

[gherrmann]



. . . .

. . . I commissioned him to make me a discounted sportcoat--the construction of which I'm documenting with a series of videos produced for both Rory's own promotional purposes and general #menswear interest. (Full disclosure: I'm a filmmaker who's previously done stuff for Put This On and A Suitable Wardrobe.)

. . . Rory has nothing to hide, and neither do I. . . . Sniffing around for sinister motivations is a tedious waste of everyone's time and goodwill.

Although I can't speak for others, I can say for myself that I'm not suggesting there was a bad motive. But would you not agree, in retrospect, that the entire situation amounts to circumstances that, in the interest of full disclosure, probably ought to have been revealed in your initial post on the subject? You can't entirely blame people for taking a dim view of your comments when you start out by praising this fellow effusively, while telling only part of the story behind your relationship with him, and only later reveal that you are involved in menswear marketing/promotional activities by trade and that you're receiving financial consideration from him for preparing promotional materials concerning his services. I think most folks would view that as information they would like to know in deciding what to make of someone's opinions about a tailor (or other service provider).

Just sayin'

 

[Montauk]



Although I can't speak for others, I can say for myself that I'm not suggesting there was a bad motive. But would you not agree, in retrospect, that the entire situation amounts to circumstances that, in the interest of full disclosure, probably ought to have been revealed in your initial post on the subject? You can't entirely blame people for taking a dim view of your comments when you start out by praising this fellow effusively, while telling only part of the story behind your relationship with him, and only later reveal that you are involved in menswear marketing/promotional activities by trade and that you're receiving financial consideration from him for preparing promotional materials concerning his services. I think most folks would view that as information they would like to know in deciding what to make of someone's opinions about a tailor (or other service provider).

Just sayin'

Look, folks--I started a very clearly promotional thread about Rory, promising video at a later date illustrating what I believe to the quality of his work. I may have been too effusive in praising him without said evidence. Whatever. The point most of you seem to be obstinately missing is that the thread was never about me or my relationship to Rory--it's about HIS clothes. Go check them out if you're interested. Or suspicious. Or shocked--SHOCKED!--about his pricing.

I imagine that for many of you its an entirely academic matter, and you simply enjoy collecting information and opinions on various tailors like so many kids trading baseball cards on the playground. (Don't get your panties in a bunch if I'm talking to you--I'm kinda that way too.)

The fact of the matter is that it's very difficult for a real tailor to establish himself in a market saturated by frontmen peddling free booze and false "bespoke." Rory's the real thing, and perhaps instead of hounding me for affronting SF's Sacred Code of Sartorial Objectivity, you might try holding your horses and give him the benefit of the doubt. For Pete's sake--it's HARD to contribute something of real worth to this community instead of just adding noise to the echo chamber. Rory's trying, and so am I.

 

[dopey]

In my first post in this thread, I mentioned how you were doing Rory a disservice by puffing him in a way he would probably not be comfortable. I think you are still doing it. He is probably a decent guy and a skilled tailor and would be better off had you simply posted your video of HIM working, rather than posting your marketing spiel about "the only Row-trained master tailor working in NYC." Frankly, I am not holding it against him, because I assume he had no idea what you were doing or saying about him (and other tailors), and that he was giving you a discount in exchange for your video, not your promotional posts. I hope that is right.
Why not drop this until your sportcoat and your video are done and then you can post the work for all to see? You are right. This shouldn't be about you. That is unfair to Rory.

I, for one, would love it if there were more skilled tailors working in New York and certainly wish him success.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



would be better off had you simply posted your video of HIM working, rather than posting your marketing spiel about "the only Row-trained master tailor working in NYC."

+100.

Montauk - don't doubt your intentions, but jst let this go for now, and revert back with the video in a few months.

As an aside, your initially posts did imply his superiority to other NY tailors, coupled with a more economical product. When both were proved false, you have hardly any place to get snippy.

 

[Threadhead]

Pedigrees of any kind in the clothing business should be taken with a grain of salt. It all depends on the individual. Remember Jason Amesbury from Lobb or various makers/alterations from A&S or other Savile Row houses? Ambrosi anyone? They were touted up and down the message boards and couldn't deliver product and were in way over their heads. In NYC, how much good can come from a Duncan Quinn pedigree, a con man who doesn't pay his bills? How about a background from Tom James?

 

[PhiloVance]

Based on the pics i've seen on tumblr lately, it looks like ambrosi has connected with the boys at the armoury. Perhaps his service is better now?

 

[David Reeves]

Maybe people shouldn't be so cynical, Its just a guy setting up a clothing business at the end of the day.

 

[Montauk]

http://dandyportraits.blogspot.com/2013/03/rory-duffy-bespoke-in-brooklyn.html

 

[Montauk]

The following are Rory's own corrections and responses to this thread:

David Reeves and I worked together on two projects in 2011. All photos of my
works have been removed from his affiliated sites. New York tailors need
entrepreneurs and salespersons as passionate about tailoring as David.
I wish him all the best with his MTM line and congratulations on his studio.

I am of course humbled to be mentioned in the same sentence as the great
Lenny Logsdail. I have meet Lenny on a few occasions, once at the Henry
Lessers Christmas party in London and again at his 53rd St location in the
city. Len has a reputation in the industry that I aspire to.

David Taub is another great Savile Row tailor. I have know David for many years,
and he did me the honour of attend my wedding party. His talent knows no
bounds, being skilled in both men's and women's cuts. His coats are things of
beauty, made in the true Savile Row tradition. I follow David's blog online and
consider him a good friend.

The following is the production process of my own suits:

The client is met and measured by me in NYC. Using the measurements and
configuration notes I draft a paper pattern. The canvas and collar are
cut and padded in my workshop for the try-on. Cloth ordered from
England is shipped to Ireland and the pattern is sent on from NYC. The
cloth is cut and the pockets are put in the foreparts and lining. The trouser and
waistcoat try-ons are also made in Ireland. When the coat foreparts are sewn
with pockets, it is sent back to me NYC where the canvas is added and the
try-on prepared. After two fittings, the try-ons are ripped and remarked for
finishing. I then hand pad the lapels, shape the edge, draw the front edge tape
and apply the facing.

The trousers and waistcoat remains in NYC for finishing while the coat is sent
back for lining. The coat returns to NY three weeks later with the sleeves basted
in ready for the final fitting. Any alterations required are carried out by myself in
the workshop. My assistant hand sews the lining and labels. I sew most of the
buttonholes as do the final pressing of all garments. My assistant applies the
curtains and waistband to the trousers and cross stitches the hem with silk
thread.

Two hole horn buttons are then sewn on before being hand delivered to
the client. It typical takes up to eight weeks for the first suit and
4-6 weeks for each suit there after.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

It's good to see a new, young tailor striking-out on his own.

It's a tough business in a competitive market. But everyone had to start somewhere.

About the price. Low price is not his selling point. This can be a good thing in that he is not under-pricing himself as did a well-known "Savile Row" tailor.

 

[Montauk]



It's good to see a new, young tailor striking-out on his own.

It's a tough business in a competitive market. But everyone had to start somewhere.

About the price. Low price is not his selling point. This can be a good thing in that he is not under-pricing himself as did a well-known "Savile Row" tailor.

After discussing with me the criticism (constructive and otherwise) he's received in this thread, Rory has reconsidered his pricing. $5000 will now buy a truly handcrafted suit, made entirely by Rory in Brooklyn. This is the level of craftsmanship that folks will be able to observe for themselves in my upcoming web video series about the coat I've commissioned. Rory will continue to offer the partially "Made In Ireland" bespoke as described in detail above (analogous to Savile Row's own process) for $3900. Both prices include premium cloth (i.e. with cashmere).

As you say, Mark, this is indeed a tough business in a competitive market, and Rory's only acknowledging that he may need to start a few rungs further down than he'd anticipated.

So on top of being the real deal, he is now--by any knowledgeable measure--a very good one.

 

[gegarrenton]

What?

 

[Montauk]



What?

No. It's the internet. Even worse, it's Styleforum. Don't you have something more important to do?

 

[gegarrenton]

There is no way you can sit there with a straight face and tell us that it seems remotely normal that a tailor just lops a grand off his price because someone who is purporting to just be a "customer" says so. That's patently ridiculous. And it isn't even taking account the misleading post at the beginning of this thread or your whine over at LL that no one was taking you seriously and the resultant responses that are inline with the ones in this thread.

 

[poorsod]



After discussing with me the criticism (constructive and otherwise) he's received in this thread, Rory has reconsidered his pricing. $5000 will now buy a truly handcrafted suit, made entirely by Rory in Brooklyn. This is the level of craftsmanship that folks will be able to observe for themselves in my upcoming web video series about the coat I've commissioned. Rory will continue to offer the partially "Made In Ireland" bespoke as described in detail above (analogous to Savile Row's own process) for $3900. Both prices include premium cloth (i.e. with cashmere).

As you say, Mark, this is indeed a tough business in a competitive market, and Rory's only acknowledging that he may need to start a few rungs further down than he'd anticipated.

So on top of being the real deal, he is now--by any knowledgeable measure--a very good one.

The thing you don't understand is that there is inherent risk in bespoke. You have to be willing to loose the deposit. There are all sorts of things that can go wrong and the risk is even greater for a 1 man show. He could get sick, injured, jailed (e.g. Des Merrion), abscond and etc., and there is no back up. $5k is a lot to bet on one guy with no track record and there are many options, particularly since the major tailoring houses visit NYC.