On pattern coordination between jacket/shirt/tie.......................

[Manton]

I like the look of a casual tie with a formal suit (though I have no highly constructed suits), but I hate the reverse.

 

[TheFoo]

I think there is some misconception about unlined ties. Generally, nobody but the wearer will know whether they are unlined. There is no visual telltale.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I think there is some misconception about unlined ties. Generally, nobody but the wearer will know whether they are unlined. There is no visual telltale.

There's no telltale, but they are significantly lighter and I think move differently. And untipped is easy enough to discern. I don't know if anyone actually notices or cares though. But I agree with you that the main difference is in the mind of the wearer.

 

[TheFoo]



Maybe because it's lighter it flaps around more. Also, the knot is smaller.
Untipped you can see if the tie flips around, which it might if it is super light because of the lack of lining.
But, yeah, this is so marginal it zero effect on what we're talking about.

If your tie is flapping around, it's because you're not wearing your jacket. In that case, it's a bit odd to be worrying about formality. And nobody is running around checking people's tie tips. Except me.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I like the look of a casual tie with a formal suit (though I have no highly constructed suits), but I hate the reverse.

Do you have a reason? (not having a reason is ok)

Do neats qualify as "formal ties" for you? Or are you just talking about wedding ties? For instance, what about this combination of floral neat with linen blend suit? Sorry, ed, for derailing us away from patterns for the moment....

 

[Manton]

I don't think I have any truly unlined ties. Maybe one. Not sure. But I do have several cappellis that are lined and tipped 6-folds and then several that are lightly lined up-tipped 3-folds. They do wear and behave differenlty. Not enough for most people to notice, but I notice.

 

[Manton]

That combo looks fine to me.

 

[TheFoo]



I don't think I have any truly unlined ties. Maybe one. Not sure. But I do have several cappellis that are lined and tipped 6-folds and then several that are lightly lined up-tipped 3-folds. They do wear and behave differenlty. Not enough for most people to notice, but I notice.

Exactly like my experience. It feels different, but that's it. Personally, I elect to have all my ties made as light as possible (different fabrics permitting varying degrees).

 

[unbelragazzo]



Ed, the combinations you show are generally too busy and low on scale variance. I stay away from small and dot patterned ties when wearing tweed, as most tweed has a combination of texture and pattern that would be too close in scale and/or density.

What do you consider the scale of a plaid where you've got both smaller and larger checks on the same pattern? I think I remember in one of the Flusser books he shows a picture of a plaid next to a small check and approves of the disparate scales, so I suppose he takes the larger check as the scale of the plaid. But maybe it varies plaid to plaid.

 

[Manton]

Keep in mind that ed's purpose of this thread is to show how to combine 3 patterns--coat, shirt, tie. The fact is, a checked jacket and shirt CAN work but 99.9% of the time it is better with a solid tie. Ed would probably agree but that's still outiside the purpose of this thread.

 

[cptjeff]



Ok thats good. What would you guys change? If someone is sitting out there with a similar jacket and does not want to wear a solid shirt/tie, what do yo recommend. For me, I would have gone with a smaller checked shirt if I had one, a darker brown. I don't think stripes would work with this jacket. My picture colors are off, I wish the pics had come out better.

On that last one? You need a much larger scale check. The size of the pattern on the shirt and jacket is way too close, which is what makes eyes bleed. And a simple one, not gingham.

You're best off with a shirt like this:

Maybe a butcher stripe or something.

I think you were thinking the large check on the jacket was the pattern to judge the scale with. It's really not, in that case. There's a lot of activity within that large check, at almost exactly the scale of the shirt's pattern. So step back and tone the shirt down, and go with a larger scale pattern.

Though if you're not set on mixing three patterns, I would recommend a plain shirt, and using the suit and the tie for the pattern. Stick to two patterns until you know what you're doing.

 

[oldog/oldtrix]



I often combine four patterns, but I have no advice to give.

Perhaps implicit advice; don't do five:

 

[TheFoo]



Keep in mind that ed's purpose of this thread is to show how to combine 3 patterns--coat, shirt, tie. The fact is, a checked jacket and shirt CAN work but 99.9% of the time it is better with a solid tie. Ed would probably agree but that's still outiside the purpose of this thread.

I think the key is still scale variance. If you want to wear two checks, just make sure one is bigger and one is smaller. I'd probably default to stripes for the third pattern, but neats can work too--so long as they are not too business-like, which is a somewhat fuzzy distinction I admit.

 

[edmorel]



Keep in mind that ed's purpose of this thread is to show how to combine 3 patterns--coat, shirt, tie. The fact is, a checked jacket and shirt CAN work but 99.9% of the time it is better with a solid tie. Ed would probably agree but that's still outiside the purpose of this thread.

exactly, the fact that you and :foo: are here marks the threak as a success already IMO, now if only more people would post pattern fits, like UBR, rather than say, "that would look better with a solid shirt/tie".

 

[Manton]

that big check shirt is awful and would be even more awful with the plaid jacket. It is CLOSER in scale because the graph paper aspect (which is offensive in and of itself) would get pretty close to the scale of the overcheck.

:shudder: