Old(ish) guy needing to upgrade my suits

[stuffedsuperdud]

Right on, sir. I really like this pattern/shade. I'm sure it'll look nice and boring in the bes possible way for the club, but without making you look boring. I'm glad to hear too that the fit worked out; it's typically okay for a suit that fits in the shoulders to look a bit boxy at first, as the midsection is very easy for a tailor to trim up for you.

For the two patterns you're holding up, I think the blue birdseye would make a great suit or sportcoat. Birdseye kind of adds a bit of an illusion of texture to a smooth fabric, which casualizes it somewhat, without actually being coarse and textured like hopsack, so it can cover a wide range of the formality scale. You said you already had a blazer, but in a pinch, you can grab the jacket from this suit and wear it as a separate. The light blue would probably make a fun casual sportcoat; I'd ask if they can make the shoulders softer / more Italian, and perhaps go with patch hip pockets instead of flapped. Would go great with with khakis or tan trousers for a relaxed but still present feeling, like if you have to meet a client off-hours or taking them out for lunch or something, or just enjoying yourself outside of work.

Anyway, hope you're having fun taking the new suit out for a test drive, and looking forward to your reports from the trunk show!

 

[J.R.]

Ok. Here is the new suit. Not sure why I’m standing with a lean in the first pic. In the pic of the back, what do you think the issue is with the slack in the jacket? Ignore the hair. It’s been a long week.

also sporting new AE Boulevards in Chili.

 

[J.R.]

They had to bring the collar down. I wonder if that is part of the issue in the slack near the top of the back???

 

[philosophe]

They had to bring the collar down. I wonder if that is part of the issue in the slack near the top of the back???

The tailor needs to take another look at the back. There's a sort of "ask the tailor" thread here on SF somewhere if you'd like some advice before you go.

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

See the diagonal lines on the thigh and between the pleat and your hip. This is harder to diagnose and to adjust for. Issue is the pattern used and the sewing. This trouser cut/pattern isn’t working for your body type. Did you buy these RTW or have them made for you? is that a Saarinen table...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Zerase]

The back is a bit messy and the shoulder padding makes you look very top heavy. It looks super American to me and that is really not my cup of tea, but to each their own!

 

[J.R.]

The back is a bit messy and the shoulder padding makes you look very top heavy. It looks super American to me and that is really not my cup of tea, but to each their own!

my goal was one suit a bit more traditional corporate business suit with a little structure. And one more relaxed and less structure that can be business or can be more dressy fun. Plus an unstructured sport coat. This is a 42R. I wonder if I really needed a 40? Or a 42slim?

here is another set of pictures. First unbuttoned. Then buttoned shoulders back; and buttoned shoulders relaxed.

 

[Zerase]

my goal was one suit a bit more traditional corporate business suit with a little structure. And one more relaxed and less structure that can be business or can be more dressy fun. Plus an unstructured sport coat. This is a 42R. I wonder if I really needed a 40? Or a 42slim?

here is another set of pictures. First unbuttoned. Then buttoned shoulders back; and buttoned shoulders relaxed. View attachment 1777731 View attachment 1777732 View attachment 1777733

I am in no way an expert on giving advice on how things should fit so disregard any advice that you don't like It could be because I have sloping shoulders, that I am unused to structured jackets that makes the shoulders look square. As I said before, it looks alright if you're into that look, just not for me. What does look pretty damn good is that kitchen of yours. Very envious of that

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

You'll get the best feedback from the tailors' thread, but to my untrained eye, from the front, where you are standing in a natural position it looks pretty good, and certainly conveys the feeling of a competent professional. From the back, I put the most weight on the "shoulders relaxed" picture because relaxed is how most people stand most of the time, and in that picture it looks pretty clean. In the others, there is what appears to be some excess material causing the ripples; typically this happens when the wearer's shoulders are more squared than the jacket's which has some slope put into it, the angle of which is set to fit an "average" man.

You say they lowered the collar; that move is typically done specifically to correct for this difference and get the jacket slope to match your shoulder slope, and in your case it miiiiight be worthwhile to ask if they might want to lower it a bit more even.

It does look a little big from the back but if the tailor was firm that a 42 is necessary for the shoulders, then I'd go with his recommendation, as he knows more than any of us about how these things work. He might be able to slim up the chest and sides a bit more, though that might just be a matter of taste and not essential, and again in the front pic where you're standing naturally it looks pretty good.

Edit: Nice shoes! Are those AE's? I think a coherent look like this one kind of puts to rest the notion that it's not "right" to pair derbies with suits.

 

[J.R.]

You'll get the best feedback from the tailors' thread, but to my untrained eye, from the front, where you are standing in a natural position it looks pretty good, and certainly conveys the feeling of a competent professional. From the back, I put the most weight on the "shoulders relaxed" picture because relaxed is how most people stand most of the time, and in that picture it looks pretty clean. In the others, there is what appears to be some excess material causing the ripples; typically this happens when the wearer's shoulders are more squared than the jacket's which has some slope put into it, the angle of which is set to fit an "average" man.

You say they lowered the collar; that move is typically done specifically to correct for this difference and get the jacket slope to match your shoulder slope, and in your case it miiiiight be worthwhile to ask if they might want to lower it a bit more even.

It does look a little big from the back but if the tailor was firm that a 42 is necessary for the shoulders, then I'd go with his recommendation, as he knows more than any of us about how these things work. He might be able to slim up the chest and sides a bit more, though that might just be a matter of taste and not essential, and again in the front pic where you're standing naturally it looks pretty good.

Edit: Nice shoes! Are those AE's? I think a coherent look like this one kind of puts to rest the notion that it's not "right" to pair derbies with suits.

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, those are my new AE Boulevards. A bit longer in the toe than I'm used to, but I like them. The four shoe string eyelets made for a better fit than the six on the oxfords.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, those are my new AE Boulevards. A bit longer in the toe than I'm used to, but I like them. The four shoe string eyelets made for a better fit than the six on the oxfords.

So.....how was the trunk show? Anything good? How's the first suit burning in? Inquiring minds wish to know!

 

[J.R.]

So.....how was the trunk show? Anything good? How's the first suit burning in? Inquiring minds wish to know!

Trunk show was a bust. Just a Coppley rep there to talk about the product, nothing interesting at all. Kind of a let down. Suit is good. I had an opportunity to wear it twice so far. The only regret I have is that I should have followed my normal pattern and got cuffs on the pants. I'm sure I'll get used to no cuffs, but the pants don't hang as nice without them and tend to bunch up around the shoe laces. I might go see if there is room to add the cuffs (which I doubt) or have them shorten and tapper the hem slight to to raise the pant off the shoe.

I'm digging the new chilli A.E. boulevards and I purchased a cheaper pair of casual tan suede bultchers.

I think my next buy will be a more Italian cut jacket vs a suit. I need some new business chinos. Any recommendations on brands for chinos? I don't really want to spend $500 at the local tailor, but the ones at JosABank are stiff cotton or a poly pant that is more like a golf pant.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

That's too bad. Any chance they'll host a Sameulsohn or Hickey Freeman rep any time soon? That's around the same quality, style, and price point as Coppley. For the more Italian vibe (softer shoulders, maybe a bit of a more casual pattern), as previous posters have mentioned, Cavour is a great resource. Otherwise, as you've noticed, Zegna, Canali, and Kiton are wonderful garments but really highlights the "pay" part of getting what you pay for!

For your current trousers, yes, I know exactly what you mean re: the way cuffs add a bit of weight, which is useful for letting your pants hang cleanly down your legs. To compensate for no-cuffs, my tailor will actually attach a ring of heavy material (feels like felt or something) to the inner edge of the hem. It's invisible from the outside and you can't feel it either, but it adds just enough heft to keep the pants anchored in place and not catching on my socks or calves. Might be something your neighborhood tailor can do too.

For dress trousers, I wear the Brooks Brothers "Advantage" chinos myself, in the Clark fit. They are delightfully low-maintenance in that they are extremely wrinkle resistant but also holds a sharp crease; also a hint of stretch for extra comfort. Some might feel like they're too stiff but for me it gives a sharp look that distinguishes them from more casual cotton pants. They're pretty overpriced at $90 or whatever the MSRP is at these days, but I've never paid more than $65 or so, by taking advantage of deals they frequently run, e.g. the current 2 for $130. Available in a big range of colors, for your convenience. I rotate through the three shades of beige/tan they have, as well as the gray.

I see others on this forum have gotten dress chinos from J.Press, Cordings, and O'Connell's, but I don't have direct experience, though folks seem to love them. For a bit cheaper, Spier and Mackay periodically has something they specifically refer to as "dress chinos," which seems to be made from a softer, slightly shinier cotton; folks in that forum might have the exact answer you're looking for as to what makes them "dressy."

Oh! For your reading pleasure, here is a cool series that The Trad did on cotton pants across a bit of a range of dressiness. I'm not sure if all of these are still available, but some are, and it might be a fun read regardless, with the history that the author includes in the articles.

The Trad

Not as good as it was. Better than it will be.

thetrad.blogspot.com

 

[norMD]

Trunk show was a bust. Just a Coppley rep there to talk about the product, nothing interesting at all. Kind of a let down. Suit is good. I had an opportunity to wear it twice so far. The only regret I have is that I should have followed my normal pattern and got cuffs on the pants. I'm sure I'll get used to no cuffs, but the pants don't hang as nice without them and tend to bunch up around the shoe laces. I might go see if there is room to add the cuffs (which I doubt) or have them shorten and tapper the hem slight to to raise the pant off the shoe.

I'm digging the new chilli A.E. boulevards and I purchased a cheaper pair of casual tan suede bultchers.

I think my next buy will be a more Italian cut jacket vs a suit. I need some new business chinos. Any recommendations on brands for chinos? I don't really want to spend $500 at the local tailor, but the ones at JosABank are stiff cotton or a poly pant that is more like a golf pant.

I strongly suggest that you try out cavour and/or spier and Mackay for both italian styled jackets and decent pants.

S&M offers free returns with you first purchase. So you can try their neapolitan cut in 40 and 42. Throw in some chinos that are currently 20 % off. All of us regular will gladly share a code that give you 20 percent off your first order. One of their current fresco suits should serve you well as a suit and as separates.

Cavour does free returns as long as the item is not discounted by more than 50 percent.

Natalino also makes good trousers

 

[J.R.]

I strongly suggest that you try out cavour and/or spier and Mackay for both italian styled jackets and decent pants.

S&M offers free returns with you first purchase. So you can try their neapolitan cut in 40 and 42. Throw in some chinos that are currently 20 % off. All of us regular will gladly share a code that give you 20 percent off your first order. One of their current fresco suits should serve you well as a suit and as separates.

Cavour does free returns as long as the item is not discounted by more than 50 percent.

Natalino also makes good trousers

Hey NorMD (or anyone else) ... if you have a 20% off a first order at S&M you are willing to share, please let me know. I'm looking at a couple of new coats. I have a 20+ year old black wool overcoat that goes several inches lower than my knee. It's in great shape, but it's way to long to the point it's uncomfortable to wear. I considered having it shortened but I'm not sure that will look right. So, I'm looking for a new coat I can wear over a suit or jacket. I'm not sure if I'll get the new shorter overcoat, car coat, or what my options will be. I also need a nicer casual coat versus my puffy backpacking jacket.



I got myself a couple of new suits, one I'm picking up on Saturday from a local tailor and one I got online. I had the tailor fix my suit jacket I posted about early (it's a different and better tailor). I'll post some pics and updates then.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Hey NorMD (or anyone else) ... if you have a 20% off a first order at S&M you are willing to share, please let me know. I'm looking at a couple of new coats. I have a 20+ year old black wool overcoat that goes several inches lower than my knee. It's in great shape, but it's way to long to the point it's uncomfortable to wear. I considered having it shortened but I'm not sure that will look right. So, I'm looking for a new coat I can wear over a suit or jacket. I'm not sure if I'll get the new shorter overcoat, car coat, or what my options will be. I also need a nicer casual coat versus my puffy backpacking jacket.



I got myself a couple of new suits, one I'm picking up on Saturday from a local tailor and one I got online. I had the tailor fix my suit jacket I posted about early (it's a different and better tailor). I'll post some pics and updates then.

@J.R. You should inquire in the dedicated Spier and Mackay thread. You'll have a ton of suitors rushing to throw their discount codes at you.