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My personal opinion on the Italian tailors.

PerfectStyle

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Sartoria Luigi Gallo —




the ultimate bespoke tailor, incredibly nice suits . Something to try once in a lifetime . After having tried elsewhere so many different MTM offerings and even a few bespoke offerings, I noticed that I was always unsatisfied with the end result. Therefore, I came to wonder whether it was actually me being too picky, or whether it was the previous tailors falling down on the job. To get to the bottom of it, as an experiment, I decided that if I ordered a bespoke suit from the best of the best and I was still unsatisfied, then it would prove once and for all that my standards for besopke tailoring were unrealistic, and that I should cut my previous tailors some slack. Well, as it turns out, Marco Gallo did not dissapoint me in any way, and even surpassed many of my expectations. The problem now is that it’s hard to unring the bell and go back to a previous state of unknowingness about what great tailoring should be — my little experiment has opened my eyes to the fact that many people who claim to be tailors these days are in fact nothing more than salemen who have taken a few courses in suitmaking.




Cesare Attolini —
Amazing RTW suits and SC’s, with a generous lapel. Not to be confused with the bespoke Naples tailor called Attolini — the two brands having nothing to do with eachother, not even a family connection from what I understand. Cesare Attolini is one of those luxurious handmade RTW brands, like Kiton and Brioni, that actually retails for a higher price than a bespoke suit. Of those three ludicrously-priced brands, I think it’s the most beautiful and feels the nicest to wear. They also make suits for other brands, at varying levels of cost and qualilty, so you can look for their trademark yellow size label inside the trousers to identify whether another high-end italian RTW suit is actually made by Attolini — e.g. Luciano Barbera Sartoriale is made by them, among others. The wonderful handmade construction and details of the Attolini topline are on par with bespoke, which can explain the high RRP.






Caraceni —
As you know, there is A. Caraceni, D. Caraceni and Tommy & Giulio Caraceni, a feuding family of world class tailors, each claiming the title of best bespoke tailor on the planet. I couldn’t say, as I only have Tommy & Giulio Caraceni, but this has got to be close to the top of the top. Certainly better than almost everything else I own. The cut is super classic, almost to the point of being boring, but it’s so well executed that it becomes exciting again. Now that’s skill.
 

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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