Looking for US made denim jacket...have some questions

[star656]

I am looking at purchasing an American made denim jacket in a dark wash (or lack thereof?). I have no prior experience with raw denim and I understand some of the drawbacks from my googling. I typically wear Outlier pants (mostly Schoeller synthetic fabrics) or dress pants so have not worn jeans in some time. I do have an old Schaefer ranchwear denim jacket in a lighter denim that I picked up on ebay that I like but would prefer a slimmer cut in the sleeves and don't quite feel like dyeing it...

1. If I buy a raw denim jacket, how much bleed can I expect onto say a white oxford shirt? Does this come off easily or will I have to resort to bleach? How long before bleeding from the cuffs/collar/inside pockets stops?
   
   
2. I am looking at Brave Star Selvage. Does anyone have experience with that brand? I like a short trim fitting jacket and will likely go with either their ironside (normal cut) in XS or steadfast (slim) in S. Despite the pictures looking a bit different, I actually think the XS ironside seems a better fit with a slightly larger chest at the XS with shorter sleeves and the short length. I am comparing these to the schafer jacket I have which has a bit more room in the chest (21") but lengthwise is similar (24" but I can go shorter) as are the sleeves (24.5").
   
   
3. Other suggestions or brands? I looked briefly at another brand, Tellason but their jackets at 25" long was too long for me, I would prefer ~24 or less. Are there other USA made options with Cone mills denim that will not bleed (ie. not raw)?
   
   
4. Only detail I wish I could find would be a leather collar like the schaefer jackets but I may see if I can purchase some and have a leather goods / shoe shop knock something up for me.

Thanks in advance, I apologize for the basic questions and ignorance.

 

[Forum Troll]

North Menswear had a batch of jackets made in L.A. earlier this summer. Rinsed cone mills denim. They were cut a little shorter from what I remember. I don't see them on his site anymore but he may have a couple left if you call or email.

 

[DoubleDouble]

@jeep364 my 2¢:

1. My experience is that you'll get little to no bleed and it can be easily washed away (on fabrics, suede is different beast for example). Can't say when the bleeding will stop because it depends on the jacket, the indigo, your usage, and mostly how often you will wash the jacket.
2. I have no experience with Brave Star.
3. If you want to narrow down your search, rather than focusing on raw vs washed (which will still leave you with too many options) it might be better to decide what style you are going for first. This article might help you. You could look for something "heritage" or go towards contemporary brands like Tellason—or Rogue Territory, 3sixteen, etc—that make reinterpretations of classic designs (but these jackets tend to be longer because the rise on pants keeps shrinking and something has to cover your belly and pubes). It's going to be hard to find some Cone Mills because the mill has closed down. It might also be worth asking yourself why you want to buy Made in USA denim. Is it to support workers of your country? Is it ok if the fabric is Japanese but the jacket was made in the USA? Is it because you like the classic American style? (if it's the latter you should know that Japanese brands often do a better job at reproducing classic American jackets than American brands).
4. I have no experience with this.

 

[star656]

Thank you for the replies. I am willing to look at Japanese mills and products, not ruling them out.

Right now I am leaning towards trying out the Taylor Stitch denim version of their long haul jacket.