Latest Bespoke DB Suit from S.Korea

[KObalto]

It looks like its not meant to be buttoned to 2. Love the lapels.

 

[F. Corbera]



It looks like its not meant to be buttoned to 2. Love the lapels.

No.



The jigger is at the middle, so the intent was to button it at the middle. He's doing it Kent because, I suspect, it was too tight at the middle.

No biggie...I think it looks pretty good buttoned to one. In either case, I think the waist has to come out. That will restore vertical symmetry to the bottom two rows of buttons. If you look at the photographs of their placement adajcent to the front dart, you will see this more clearly.

But, let's hear from the OP.

 

[KObalto]

Missed that. Thanks.

 

[trigirdbers]

Do the pants fall too high on the shoe or is that just a preference/suspenders thing?

 

[Despos]

This jacket has a nice silhouette but suffers a few technical difficulties. The button pulling is not from being tight but from balance issues. The tailor could add an interior button to line up with the lower external button so it will hold the front when buttoned to the lowest button. This will reduce the pull on the button.
Regarding the top buttons. if the spacing of the lower 2 are 4 1/2", put the top buttons 5 1/4" or 5 1/2 " from the middle button.

Looks like the tailor had a hard time fitting this one. The fronts are short, especially the left front. The shoulder seam is too far to the back and thats why the collar sits funny. Look at the point of the gorge line that hits the shirt collar. Notice it sort of peaks up at that point. This happens when the shoulder seam is off and prevents a good neck run. The collar should sit down at that point. This may be from trying to get a tailor to cut something different from his standard methods. Guessing the tailor dropped the fronts to lengthen the fronts and this made the armholes deeper.

Now someone is going to look at the side shot and say the fronts are not short. If you look at the pocket height to the hem line, you will notice that they are not parallel. The front was lengthened at the hem to compensate for the short front but the front is actually short. The front looks like it is moving back on his torso and upper chest.

OP you have a good grasp of details. They put the pipes with the grain line this time and it's nice that they hand stitched the seams along the sleeve to help the shirt sleeve affect. You are teaching Koreans to speak Italian.
I see banchan served with pizza in the future.

 

[hymo]

Maybe he asked for the shoulder pads to be removed pretty late into the process.

 

[TheTukker]

Very nice, but I agree with these comments:

... There's also some racking of the jacket at the buttoning point that makes it seem like the middle row is more widely separated. I suspect that it is too tight in the waist when buttoned to two, if so, it might look better let out.
Armscye is a bit on the large and low for my taste.
...

Also, do I see braces, side tabs and belt loop here?

 

[ShayaEXQT]

Quote:

Also, do I see braces, side tabs and belt loop here?

It seems you can have your cake and eat it!!

 

[Despos]

It's a single belt loop for the extension waistband to pass thru.

 

[TheTukker]



It's a single belt loop for the extension waistband to pass thru.

Thanks Chris - I thought that's what it was, but I've never really understood the purpose, if any, of that belt loop. Also, I am always a bit surprised to see braces and side tabs in one go.

 

[plei89]

Who was the maker and what did it run you?

 

[Pharaoh34]

Who was the maker and what did it run you?

I'm still waiting on this answer myself.

 

[unjung]

Nearly perfect other than the items pointed out by the other posters.

 

[terrorsquad]

I believe the maker is the same tailor he used for his previous suits which is Sartoria Vanni. The material, judging from the brand is from the Italian brand, REDA.

 

[ho1joon]

Sorry for the belated relpy. Busy days because election is coming...(Of course I'm not running for it, I just work at the campaign camp)

Do the pants fall too high on the shoe or is that just a preference/suspenders thing?

It is just a preference thing, Because width at cuff is close to slim look, so I thought it would be better to cut the pants at higher point.

This jacket has a nice silhouette but suffers a few technical difficulties. The button pulling is not from being tight but from balance issues. The tailor could add an interior button to line up with the lower external button so it will hold the front when buttoned to the lowest button. This will reduce the pull on the button.
Regarding the top buttons. if the spacing of the lower 2 are 4 1/2", put the top buttons 5 1/4" or 5 1/2 " from the middle button.
Looks like the tailor had a hard time fitting this one. The fronts are short, especially the left front. The shoulder seam is too far to the back and thats why the collar sits funny. Look at the point of the gorge line that hits the shirt collar. Notice it sort of peaks up at that point. This happens when the shoulder seam is off and prevents a good neck run. The collar should sit down at that point. This may be from trying to get a tailor to cut something different from his standard methods. Guessing the tailor dropped the fronts to lengthen the fronts and this made the armholes deeper.
Now someone is going to look at the side shot and say the fronts are not short. If you look at the pocket height to the hem line, you will notice that they are not parallel. The front was lengthened at the hem to compensate for the short front but the front is actually short. The front looks like it is moving back on his torso and upper chest.
OP you have a good grasp of details. They put the pipes with the grain line this time and it's nice that they hand stitched the seams along the sleeve to help the shirt sleeve affect. You are teaching Koreans to speak Italian.
I see banchan served with pizza in the future.

Wow... Thank you for your detailed reply, Despos. I've learned many things from your clothings in Made by Hand posts.

1. Spacing of the buttons ; I haven't noticed it before read your reply and ask it to my tailor and got the reason. One time he dissected Attolini's DB Suit and learn things from it.
Spacing of the buttons matter is happened because he applied what he learned from Attolini.

2. Legth of the front : You're right, I checked and recognize the left front is slightly short, and height of the pocket is not parallel.
I guess this is the first time I don't use the shoulder pad and my shoulder itself is not parallel, so my tailor or made a mistake.

It looks like its not meant to be buttoned to 2. Love the lapels.

I intended to make it as a half kent style, or in other words, half strappata(2.75 strappata?) applied to double breasted.
It could be wear as a 4x6 because lapel ends right under the middle button,
but it looks more natural unbutton the middle one in terms of depth of V-zone(stance of buttons), waist suppression and etc.