Just picked up my new MTM suits... critique if you like

[otacon]

Originally Posted by JamesX

The suit is definitely male styled suit. The only reason it looks feminine is because it is sized for, and worn by, a woman.

I agree.

Maybe someone can correct me, and I really hope not to offend. I'm going to be verbose and rambling, but I'm not really sure what to cut out of this post, so please bear with me

Men's suits are made to express our masculinity. That's why the shoulders are squared, the jacket cut to either make us look boxy or, when they do taper in at the waist, they do so to further accentuate the squared shoulders.

I understand women wearing suits that do not flatter their figure as well as a dress or skirt. They don't want their mostly-male coworkers to think of them as an object or sexual figure. There are enough similarities between us to make a suit that has some of the same basic principles, but by negating some of the effects which are done in a man's suit to make it look more "manly" (i.e. the build of the shoulder padding should probably be different from a man's suit, the difference in torso shape, etc.) What is achieved is something slightly aggressive looking while not being overtly-masculine.

While this doesn't have any women's suits, it does have women in jackets, just to give you an idea:
http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshow...nrunway/gucci/

That's from Tom Ford's last year at Gucci.

Strong shoulders, sure, but the slope is different from a man's jacket.


I'm not really a fan of how boxy these suits make you look, or how well it seems to hide some of your womanly traits. The construction looks to me more like a man's jacket than a woman's. I do imagine it isn't as much of a problem in person as I'm garnering from these pics. As a matter of fact, the angled shots you took seem to indicate this, and I like how it tapers in on you, though because it is a man's jacket (and you have a bust,) there is pull--a woman's jacket would probably avoid much of this problem, just due to the way it is structured. Men and women tend to have a different bust shape, after all.

I certainly wouldn't return them or hate them were I you, but I'd also look into the difference between men and women suits and just why there is such a difference. It isn't all about the frills and eccentricities women usually dig--the way we are built is an issue. This isn't just across gender, but within--a man of one build is not going to fit well into a suit made for a man with a different build type. When it comes to clothing, if I've learned anything, it's that the eye can see something wrong, but to actually know what it is that is causing it takes knowledge and experience. Unfortunately, I don't think you'll find much on women's clothing here. The tailors would probably have the best eyes and the most knowledge about the difference in fit between men and women and be able to be technical about it, even though they more than likely specialize in men's wear.

 

[tricota]

Originally Posted by Rada

And, no, there is no female equivalent that I've run across.

Although this is a bit of a boys club, I dont mind the female influence from time to time. And as you have said, you arent really a girl trying to make the suit into a womans dress, but rather a woman with a passion for quality mens wear/suits. And in that case I think it is very cool that you post here. In fact the more the merrier. This board is about suits and traditional menswear, and if a woman is into that, she has as much of a right to post here as any man, in my opinion. As long as it doesnt get too girly...

?

 

[otacon]

^^I agree, that there isn't anything odd about women talking about men's clothing. I don't think anyone here should have a problem with that, and if they do, they're being weird. On the flip side, some of the finest women's designers have been men.

 

[bmf895]

I predict male influenced suits for women coming to the runways of Paris, Milan & London. Look how much polarizing discussion (and the number of page views) this thread has generated in such a short time. Runway collections are all about keeping people talking long after the show ends. Rada is SF's very own visionary. Feminism 2.0, coming to a runway near you for S/S 2011.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by otacon

The construction looks to me more like a man's jacket than a woman's.

That's the point.

Originally Posted by otacon

I'd also look into the difference between men and women suits and just why there is such a difference.

I'm sure she's well aware that she has breasts. She could easily have requested a womens suit, with bust darts etc. This was clearly not what she wanted.

You can debate all you want about whether you like the resulting look or not, but she specifically wants it to look like a man's suit and she's the one who's gonna be wearing it.

 

[otacon]

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

That's the point.



I'm sure she's well aware that she has breasts. She could easily have requested a womens suit, with bust darts etc. This was clearly not what she wanted.

You can debate all you want about whether you like the resulting look or not, but she specifically wants it to look like a man's suit and she's the one who's gonna be wearing it.

I wasn't telling her that she had breasts, silly. Just explaining why it doesn't work well with that suit. She did ask us to critique it. I'm not quite sure what the look she's going after is though, so I don't know how to offer much more in the way of helpful criticism.

Perhaps I came across overly harsh?

I apologize if I did. She indicated not knowing much about women's suits, so I thought I'd throw a few things in there (not that I really know much, either.)

I do agree that the price paid for those is great. Better than great, really. I do rather like the styling. Were I in the area ever, I'd feel the need to try the tailor out. The fabric looks great too. As a side note, I'm digging the cuff-links; it's refreshing to see women wear them anywhere that isn't a movie.

 

[Rada]

You weren't harsh at all... I'm rather thick skinned so I wouldn't know if you were being harsh

Here's the thing. I've always loved men's suits/men's fashion. I was never trying to be a man, I just felt more comfortable in them. I'm not butch exactly. I still take care of my long hair, wear makeup, etc... I'm not trying to HIDE my feminine figure, I'm just celebrating the beauty that is tailored menswear and not accentuating that feminine figure here. I know a lot of people here won't 'get it' but many have, and it's refreshing. I'm not interested in wearing skirts... skirts have never been my style. Think Katherine Hepburn/Marlene Dietrich. I've always had an androgynous style and have always wanted suits - so I got them.

 

[CruzAzul]

This is a great look, and I appreciate where you're going with this. Over the last few years there's been a nice trend of classic menswear patterns on things like women's shoes, and this is a fashionable step forward in that same direction. There's something really interesting and pleasantly dissonant about these classic men's elements applied to a female form. Not to plug my site too shamelessly, but we've started to see men's suits worn in ways that used to be the sole province of women, i.e. with highly nipped waists and just a scarf or cardigan beneath. Agreed that the sleeves look a little too tight, but if they're not uncomfortable, you could leave them as they are and it still works.