Indochino suits?

[aznchwmein]

I just got a remake of my Indochino suit. I wish I had better pictures of the first. Overall, I was quite happy with the first but the salesfolks at the store pushed me for a remake just to make it perfect. For the remake I requested a half inch lowering of the button stance (as it was giving me too much flare at the hips and creating an hourglass/peach effect), tapering the sleeve cuffs half an inch and getting rid of the roped shoulders. They said it wasn't possible for them to switch the shoulder type completely but they could put a note in for some softening. I also asked them to look into the sleeve pitch as it seemed to bunch a little with my natural stance. They also suggested taking out some fabric in the back to get rid of some bunching under the armholes and to make the armholes about 3/4 inch smaller, as they remembered that I liked high armholes. Some photos were taken to give the tailors some real life photos to work with and I suspect that came in really handy as there were changes that I didn't ask for but appreciated.

This is the result and for $400 (it was a silver premium on sale, but Indochino is always on sale...), I'm very very happy with the results. I still see some flaws and my biggest disappointment was that either they lengthened the jacket or the jacket now drapes lower about half an inch as a result of the changes. I know it now looks more traditional but I actually quite like the "trendy" short jacket that came up to the "V" wedge between my thumb and forefinger. The lapels were "narrow" so 2.33 inches as opposed to their normal 2.75. I have another suit with 2.5 inch and felt that was my sweet spot but I think this came out fine for my proportions.

I'm certain there was some kind of change in the structure as the first suit was a little uncomfortable in that my shoulders were digging into the front. This one is spot on in comfort and mobility. The left breast seems to bulge out more than I'd like when I place a pocket square in the pocket and the chest in general feels looser yet flatter than I'd like. I'm not quite sure what to think of it. The pants are the most comfortable I've worn but the seat looks too tight for me (though it feels good). I also see puckering in the pockets in the photos. Any thoughts on that or any other critiques and suggestions I would be happy to hear before I put in another order. For my next suit I'll be asking for another quarter inch smaller in the armholes and shortening the jacket another quarter inch. And so any other suggestions are very welcomed.

The only alteration was hemming the pants to achieve zero break. Would love to hear suggestions for tailoring as I still have the $75 credit. I didn't do any because the remake handled most of what I wanted.

So yeah, for $400 I've very happy. And yes, I didn't actually have my tie bar clipped in. Didn't want to damage my new knit tie, so you'll have to cringe and accept it and all its crookedness haha =) Thanks for any suggestions for improvement!

 

[Shirtmaven]

I have seen much worse.

everything is just a bit too tight.
causing it to pull in the usual places

also the chest is popping out. I even saw photos on the urban daddy deal site, where
the chest on the mode was popping as well.

 

[aznchwmein]

Thanks shirt maven! When you say it's pulling in all the usual places, what places did you mean exactly?

I agree with the left chest popping out. It does that when I place in a pocket square. I think it's due to a combination of the higher button stance along with the pocket opening hitting right where my pectoral muscle peaks, giving the suit more structure below that where it should normal flow down more smoothly. The left chest resembles the righ chest in the photos when I take out the pocket square. I'm thinking I'll just cut the square in half to give it less stiffness but anyone know of a tailoring change that would help fight the problem?

 

[Shirtmaven]

your pocket square is not the culprit.

the button stance is too high.
the waist is very suppressed.

it is just too tight across the chest.
the collar sits away from your neck at the sides.

the jacket could use a chest dart under the lapel.

they just cut everything to tight.
lapels should not pop like that.

and the pants are tight in the crotch

 

[Alpha11]

The things people are willing to go through/ subject themselves to save a few bucks is perplexing. I have to give it too you as you have more patience than I . I purchased a few suits from suit supply and this compnay and my clothing tailor told me to just send them back. The amount of fixing along with the time it would take was too much. I went with a MTM from a well known company and not one of my suit had any problems. Not one.

 

[aznchwmein]

Oh, I didn't choose Indochino to save a few bucks. They were the only MTM I was interested in that had a physical store in my city so I could see the fabric/color in person. And I dunno, the other MTMs just didn't excite me much and the more 'traditional' fare in the stores like Brooks Brothers just didn't excite me at all. I was considering Black Lapel possibly for a traditional navy suit with normal button stance, but you can't trust computer monitors for color referencing, you know? In any case I wanted a fun fashion forward suit and I got 95% what I wanted and for a pretty great price. Real world testing has netted me real world compliments and the guy in the mirror approves, so I'm happy with my purchase. Happy enough that I'm definitely going to put in another order, just want to work out all the kinks before I do.

It seems obvious now that the crotch is too tight and causing that blackhole puckering where it's just sucking the fabric in haha. Thanks for pointing that out, I'll definitely see how much my tailor can let out there. I'm not too bothered by the chest thing anymore, the thin pocket square trick seems to have solved most of the problem to the point I don't think its an issue in real world wearing. Though it does speak poorly of the pattern and cut because the issue was there in the first suit, too. The collar sometimes floating off ever so slightly bothers me a little but again, doesn't seem noticeable in real world wearing. The wrinkle at the back where the vent starts bothers me a little and clearly seems related to the more aggressive waist suppression, but I also really like the waist taper look so I don't think I'll be letting it out. Would be nice if there's something my tailor could do if it's an issue with the pattern itself and can't be changed for a future suit.

Alpha, what bothered you about your Indochino suit? Was it the same problems as mine? Do you have pictures of your new MTM suit? What were the differences and where did you end up going?

Thanks, guys!

 

[Shirtmaven]

Maybe this is a fit choice made by the designers at Indochino
look at this link from Urban Daddy By no means am I promoting Indochino or Urban daddy.

https://perks.urbandaddy.com/nation...tm_campaign=onecolumn_050316&utm_medium=Email

look at the photos. especially the first blue suit.
The fit is awful!!!!!
who at Indochino even approved such a poorly fitted suit.
Maybe Indochino(like Thom Brown in the past) is trying to promote a look that by
traditional tailoring standards is wrong.
I am OK with a trim, almost too tight, on the right person
Look at David Reeves photos. He gets it right.

There are many other places to go for a MTM suit.
Indochino makes a bad garment, that is consistently mis fit.

 

[David Reeves]

double post

 

[David Reeves]



Thanks Carl, I try to do what I would describe as very "clean tailoring", its never tight you won't see pulling but it is a more dressy fitted look. This repeat client picked this up on Tuesday and walked out with it, no fittings needed. When you make individual patterns, have an alteration shop on site and do multiple fittings first time round its easier to get it right, MTM is always going to be a compromise.

This jacket is unlined 6.5 oz Silk and Linen.

 

[cmoto]

After spending 4 months dealing with remakes from Indochino I'm ready to move on.

When people say to use a "good" MTM vendor, what does that mean exactly?

My tailor happens to be a J.Hilburn rep - should I go that route? I've had two shirts done with him and they've both been spot on.

 

[a tailor]



After spending 4 months dealing with remakes from Indochino I'm ready to move on.

When people say to use a "good" MTM vendor, what does that mean exactly?


My tailor happens to be a J.Hilburn rep - should I go that route?  I've had two shirts done with him and they've both been spot on.

Go ahead and try him. If it does not work out. Then try another one. That is the only way to find out.

 

[eisonomics]

I'm a total noob but comparing Indochino to other quality MTM shops/products that are smaller and have better QC isn't comparing apple to apples. I think it would be best to compare a Men's Wearhouse suit (Abboud) to Indochino based on materials, notions and mass production/approach. On average MWH spends $20-$30 at full scale to produce a 2-piece suit and Indochino has similar metrics, which are directly correlated to quality in my book.

 

[cmoto]

...quality MTM shops/products....

what are those, exactly?

 

[starro]

I'm a total noob but comparing Indochino to other quality MTM shops/products that are smaller and have better QC isn't comparing apple to apples. I think it would be best to compare a Men's Wearhouse suit (Abboud) to Indochino based on materials, notions and mass production/approach. On average MWH spends $20-$30 at full scale to produce a 2-piece suit and Indochino has similar metrics, which are directly correlated to quality in my book.

this analysis particularly makes sense if you're an investor in either establishment. But for potential customers of Indochino, their concern is with prices. And for Indochino-level prices, one could find much better quality MTM from the better-QC shops (and if they're smaller in scale than Indochino, so be it). Stores are concerned with their cost structures, and buyers are concerned with pricing structures. When any seller starts to talk about their costs in order to justify prices, massive bullshit alarm sounds off in my head.

 

[eisonomics]

@starro I agree. As a discerning customer who seeks to understand where my wallet share goes, I thought I'd shed some light on the overall concept as @cmoto seems to have had a bad experience at Indochino. That said, it would be wise to understand the derivation of his frustration and how Indochino presents product on a "premium" platform but fails to deliver even on a mediocre level. To sum it all up, MWH is on par, given their approach and cloth quality. I mentioned the cost structure as way to clearly show that one cannot produce a premium suit with great cloth, even at scale, at a net cost of less than $30 ( I'm a data geek, sorry). To me, that screams BS and should alarm one to steer away from both brands. - Just saying. And I'm neither an investor, buyer or seller, just informed and love to share.